Hey all. The axle bearings let go in my wife's 65 Belvedere wagon. I have an 8 3/4 suregrip rear out of a 68 RR. Are the dimensions all the same for a direct bolt in? Just wondering if the widths and spring perches are the same.
8 3/4 in a 65 wagon
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Actually I don't have it there. It's in storage. Just wanted to know before I pulled it out and unrapped it.you have the car and the rear right there just measure it......
Tony Tee
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If it was me... I would replace the axel bearings and save the sure grip unit for a future project.
I have been saving it for years and this is the first opportunity to use it. Now it's at the point that it's taking up space. Plus we are going to end up using the wagon to tow a camper.
I looked and didn't see anything for 65 B wagon. I didn't realize that was in the suspension thread. Thanks.
I believe the 65 vintage is about as narrow as they come. I'd recommend the green bearing conversion and keep the original rear in the car. Less work overall and you can sell the other one pretty readily. The conversion kit can be obtained for much less $ than the RR rear end will bring. I don't think the lack of a sure grip will affect your towing stuff. I pulled my drag car on an open trailer for years behind a 65 Satellite with open rear end.
If you have the parts, effort & ambition, I would put the sure-grip in. Nothing worse when camping, to pull in and set up, at a nice, dry camp, have it rain way too much, and bury your tow vehicle, trying to get out. 2 wheels turning, and some "tready" tires, make a Big Difference...
That's what I was thinking. Plus the better gearing would help also. The sure grip has 3.23s.
YY1
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65 to 67 is the same width.
68/69 a little wider.
What is wrong exactly with the one in the car?
Is it in the chunk, or the end of the housing.
"green bearings" will incite passionate discussion pro and con.
If it's just the chunk that has a problem, swapping in the sure grip chunk is kind of a no-brainer.
If you've got a bad axle bearing (they generally howl before the grind) they aren't terrible to replace.
I'm personally not a fan of the green bearings.
68/69 a little wider.
What is wrong exactly with the one in the car?
Is it in the chunk, or the end of the housing.
"green bearings" will incite passionate discussion pro and con.
If it's just the chunk that has a problem, swapping in the sure grip chunk is kind of a no-brainer.
If you've got a bad axle bearing (they generally howl before the grind) they aren't terrible to replace.
I'm personally not a fan of the green bearings.
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The '68 rear will bolt right in. The wider width will have your original wheels out farther. They may not rub but it will look different.
You could just pull the axles on the rear in the car and replace the bearings with the original style taypered roller. Get timken bearings and new seals. Keep track of the shims that you will find when removing the axles. IMO it's a lot easier than swapping out the whole rear.
Any questions on doing this feel free to ask.
You could just pull the axles on the rear in the car and replace the bearings with the original style taypered roller. Get timken bearings and new seals. Keep track of the shims that you will find when removing the axles. IMO it's a lot easier than swapping out the whole rear.
Any questions on doing this feel free to ask.
YY1
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The hardest part of axle bearings on an 8 3/4 is grinding the inner race off the axle without gouging the axle shaft.
Doing that twice is arguably easier than replacing the whole axle assembly.
Doing that twice is arguably easier than replacing the whole axle assembly.
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Oh crap, it is a '65!
Never mind about the taypered axels but I would just replace the bearings and seals. If you want the 3:23 just swap the center section out of the RR rear. Easy Peasy
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This is the rear (1965 ) that you'll find two different housing measurements looking through some charts posted online. Housing flange to flange without the backing plates, one states 54-1/4" one states 54-1/2". If it's the latter, it would only be a 7/16" difference from a 1968 rear housing @ 54-15/16" .
Like stated above measure both of them. And let us know. Some charts will note the wagon rear but not for the '65. So maybe the wagons were the same as the other models made in '65?
Like stated above measure both of them. And let us know. Some charts will note the wagon rear but not for the '65. So maybe the wagons were the same as the other models made in '65?
The rear is already out of the wagon. I had the leafs rebuilt at a local shop, bought new hangers and bushings and pulled the gas tank. The spare tire well is rotted so gonna weld in a replacement. Found a replacement 3rd row seat so I stripped the interior. I figured I would just do everything while it's apart. I'm not worried about the work aspect. I just want to bolt in the axle. Easier now that everything is apart.
Darter6
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Go for it. I installed a 69 Charger rear under one of my 63 Plymouths.
7/16 divided by 2 is 7/32. Mopar's tolerances are way more than that so you should have no problem hanging that housing.
7/16 divided by 2 is 7/32. Mopar's tolerances are way more than that so you should have no problem hanging that housing.
yella71
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Go pull the rear out of storage and do the measure , even if you dont use the rear you want the sure grip. go get the rear.
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