Need Radiator Help!!! Desperate
- Thread starter THE STIG
- Start date
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
Not as many Speed Shops as you'd think...
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
In his defense, he's done me right on all my other cars and I did initially tell him I wasn't in a hurry because it was the beginning of summer and my income usually goes down a little in the summer months and I wasn't in that big of a hurry to drive a black car with no AC in the Midwest humidity. Who ever gets it next will have to make it a greater priority for sure.
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
Damn!!!!! Just saw this post!!!! Thank You!!!!
Sixpactogo
Well-Known Member
Big block water pumps are not different between New Yorker and Charger. Or Plymouth for that matter. They may have more or less impeller blades due to A/C or non A/C but will fit the water pump housing. In 1973 Chrysler changed the Big block water pump housing and relocated the outlet from the driver side to the passenger side but the pump itself is the same. (something to do with smog pumps)
With that said, Your 70 Charger would have had the water pump housing with the driver side outlet and the lower radiator inlet on the driver side. The 75 New Yorker engine had the passenger side water pump outlet. The previous owner should have swapped the water pump housing from the original 383 to the New Yorker 440 when he did the engine swap. That is the reason they can't find the correct radiator. You could use a small block radiator with the lower inlet on the passenger side just to get it home.
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Edward Zeliesko
Well-Known Member
try classic industries, they have stock looking radiators for all mopars, can order with neck and either side,
CHARGERSTEVEN
Well-Known Member
As stated you owned the car for a few years n than the over heating problem started,so you took the old rad out n tried to replace it with a BE COOL UNIT,the old rad core was probally just wore out n as long as the tanks were in good shape the rad shop would have no problem recoreing it,n you would of be able to pop it back in the same as you took it out,after all it kept it cool for several years.The rad cores dont last forever n once the fins start to become loose on the tubes its on its way out n it doesnt help from not using the rite mixture of anti freeze in there.
joemish
Well-Known Member
sounds like a fake story. Way too much idiocy going on from beginning to end.
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
I wish it were fake...
AJ/FormS
Well-Known Member
I come from FABO, and we have the same problems between the 69 and down spigots being different than the 70 and up, but with the SBMs.
But I want to talk about diagnosing the overheat first.
From the beginning of this thread, I have not seen the diagnostic that condemned your rad.
An overheat below ~30mph, has a different solution than an overheat above ~35 mph. And if you have A/C, there is a third diagnostic.
If you knew this, and did the proper diagnostic, to arrive at a bad rad,well then;
IMO, I would work with the new rad, which you already paid good money for, and just swapping to the later WP housing and hoses. You may have to install a new TDC mark on your balancer, which is no big deal.
But I want to talk about diagnosing the overheat first.
From the beginning of this thread, I have not seen the diagnostic that condemned your rad.
An overheat below ~30mph, has a different solution than an overheat above ~35 mph. And if you have A/C, there is a third diagnostic.
If you knew this, and did the proper diagnostic, to arrive at a bad rad,well then;
IMO, I would work with the new rad, which you already paid good money for, and just swapping to the later WP housing and hoses. You may have to install a new TDC mark on your balancer, which is no big deal.
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
The New Rad won't fit in the car. The one that was in it is now being re-cored. I guess the issue all along was that they were looking for a part of the Rad that was in my garage all along...
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