I am I have tried everything else.Sure I got a better tune playing around with it.But it warms up and stalls every time.
#1) check/adjust your hot wet fuel-level.
#2) Check your transfer-slot exposure below the Primary throttle blades; it should be no less than, a lil taller than wide. Set it there, and leave it there.
Then adjust the idle-timing to get the rpm you want. Finally re-engineer your D to get the Power-Timing your engine wants without changing the Idle-timing.Some cams will need some idle-air bypass to clean up the low speed AFR.
If you try to run the throttle too far closed, the fuel will "dry-up" on the slowdown, and the engine will try to get the missing fuel from the mixture screws. When it can't, it stalls.
If you accidentally, set the throttles too far up the Transfer slots, then on the slow-down, the engine will pull too much fuel thru the slots and with the mixture screws also flowing, she tends towards flooding.
Do not try to tune with a pre-conceived idea of how much idle-timing you think your engine needs; you will never get the Transfer slots right.
Instead, chose a Transfer-slot exposure in the ballpark, like slightly taller than wide, then let the engine TELL you what timing it wants. Try it for a couple of evenings, then decide if it needs more or less transfer fuel.
Keep in mind that at idle, your engine wants a certain amount of fuel. And that amount is shared by the transfers and the mixture screws. If you change the transfer-slot exposure, then you will have to change the mixture screw adjustment. If you add or subtract Idle-air bypass, then they will both have to be changed.Try to set the mixture screws in the center of their adjustment range. But the one thing that will want to remain relatively constant, while NOT IDLING, but just off-idle and until the mains start up, is the Transfer-slot exposure under the Primary throttle blades.
But if your fuel level is wrong, yur gonna have nothing but trouble; even more if it does not remain stable.
Happy Twiddling.
