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727 shift points

What rear gearing do you have? The taller the rear end, the slower the driveshaft / tailshaft moves so the governor weights pop out at a higher mph when cruising. It will effect the shift points to a degree. Lower gears spin up the tailshaft quicker so shifts come quicker.

But I agree with adjustments recommended above. With mix matched parts you could have a different ratio arm on the trans or carb.
 
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The shifts happen at the same point in relation to RPM no matter what the rear axle is. Of course that equates to lower speed with a larger ratio.
 
Gotta agree with Nate regarding the carb reaching full travel and kickdown arm reaching full travel simultaneously. With the 3 piece linkage the geometry between the bellcrank and throttle arm at the case has to be correct before the rod can be adjusted at the carb. IMHO if the op is using factory type kickdown linkage, use the factory adjustment procedure. That is, of course, once the carb travel is correct as outlined by Nate.
 
Some pictures would help.
What rear gearing do you have? The taller the rear end, the slower the driveshaft / tailshaft moves so the governor weights pop out at a higher mph when cruising. It will effect the shift points to a degree. Lower gears spin up the tailshaft quicker so shifts come quicker.

But I agree with adjustments recommended above. With mix matched parts you could have a different ratio arm on the trans or carb.

This could be correct, i.e., this tranny might be shifting correctly as designed/intended. Pics would help.

As suggested, take some throw out of the total travel. You can test this by simply shortening the effective length of the slot.

You might need to get into the governor weights
 
This could be correct, i.e., this tranny might be shifting correctly as designed/intended. Pics would help.

As suggested, take some throw out of the total travel. You can test this by simply shortening the effective length of the slot.

You might need to get into the governor weights
The governor is an indicator of road speed and has to overcome throttle pressure in order to upshift. The op didn't really say if the shift timing varies with light, medium, or heavy throttle which it should. Just at given speeds. If it is always shifting at the same speeds it definitely sounds like a throttle valve adjustment. If that's the case, I would avoid any heavy acceleration until the proper line pressure/throttle opening relationship is established.
 
A comment, the '72 Newport 727 is going to have a low RPM shift range, since it's a soft driving big car, 727 components not at all intended for HP use. The governor and throttle pressure from the kickdown linkage will be set for low RPM shifts. An aftermarket HP valve body may be in order.
 
Ok. Wow. I missed quite the discussion while out testing my car.

So i removed the return spring and set it up how i got the car originally. Shifts into 2nd between 12-14 and a little stiffer of a shift into 3rd at 20-24 mph. It will shift at higher rpm when going harder on the throttle, which is a good sign. No kickdown on highway though, so I'd need to at least elongate the slot in the rod and readjust. When drilling that hole on the carb, is there a specific dimension to follow? Or as long as it's closer, it's better type situation?

The car had 2.94s, but i tossed in a 3.23 with a sg.
 
The shift point doesn't know MPH, it knows RPM. If you block the throttle at full, get under the car & see if the throttle pressure lever at the trans is all the way back (pull the linkage out & pull the lever back all the way, see if the linkage drops in smoothly.
 
You need to verify wot on carb and full push back of the trans lever. If you can't get there then as suggested you may need to change the ratio via a different hole. A mount closer to the pivot point will travel less, further away more. On my fury the throttle cable and lokar cable are not on the same arc via different holes.
The governor can make a difference but is not causing this, with no downshift you're not getting enough travel soon enough on the trans
 
Each shift happens around 2k rpm when cruising slowly. And like i said earlier, it'll shift later when i give more throttle.

I'll have to either modify the carb or the rod.

No biggy.
 
I didn’t relize those levers were different I put together a70 Roadrunner 440 auto car most of my kick down linkage is from swap meets nothings matched ,never heard of that 1 to 1 ratio is there a basic set up with wide open throttle,I was at a local cruse guy total me I’ll burn up my tranny the way it’s set up ,never had an auto in a Mopar little lost on proper adjustment
 
Did you manually make sure your carb opens all the way? I've seen so much slack in throttle cables, that the carb actually doesn't open completely, therefore the kickdown linkage isn't completely bottomed either. I would remove the linkage at the carb, and push down on the throttle cable where it attaches to the carb and check the slack. There should be very little, only enough to ensure total throttle closure. Then I would manually push throttle to wide open and adjust kickdown linkage to attach at that point, then release and make sure throttle is completely closed to idle screw contact. Now, the slightest throttle pressure will move your kickdown linkage to activate the KD valve. It's a quick easy step to try, and take it for a test drive. good luck!
 
Your connections at the carb look exactly like mine. I needed to extend the rod by inserting a 1/4"x28tpi section, like a turnbuckle. Edelbrock sells them. I went to my local hardware, bought a bi-threaded connector, and sawed off a 1/4x28 bolt to lenth. Then adjust it a few turns at a time, it is very sensitive. I was told that if you leave your 727 shifting at those low speeds, it will self-destruct from lack of pressure. Mine shifts perfectly now. Sorry I can't find photo, but I did attach to a previous thread on this topic!
 
The car had 2.94s, but i tossed in a 3.23 with a sg.
This IS your problem.
The Governor is the primary, and gross shift commander. The TP adjustment is just for fine tunning.
You have sped up the driveshaft, 3.23/2.94= plus 10%, so you are gonna have to mess with the governor BEFORE anything else. The throttle pressure adjustment cannot compensate for that gear swap.

Want proof?
Climb under there and zip-tie the lever all the way back and take her for a ride.
 
So the governor is the pressure spring from that video on the last page? Or is the governor something that needs to be changed according to gears, tires, etc? I need to change my pan gasket and neutral safety switch to deal with leaks anyway.

I can't use a turnbuckle for mine. I have a different style. And I don't feel like mixing and matching more than i have to.
 
The governor is a centrifugal hydraulic pressure regulator. Basically a valve with a couple weights and a spring. The heavier the weights the faster the hydraulic pressure rises. It’s this pressure that forces the shift. This thingy is in the tail shaft of the tranny near the base. Once the throttle pressure valve (kickdown) is working properly there are two ways to change shift RPM, line pressure and governor weight/spring. Line pressure will only get you so far and will alter the feel of shifts. Governor only moves shifts.

If you know where your shifts are and know the weights and spring force, you can predictably alter the shift points.
 
You don't need to mess with the governor. I've switched between 2.73 and 3.91's in the same car with everything else the same and got the same shift rpm-wise. Of course the mph changes that it shifts at as it should when you change gears.
 
You don't need to mess with the governor. I've switched between 2.73 and 3.91's in the same car with everything else the same and got the same shift rpm-wise. Of course the mph changes that it shifts at as it should when you change gears.
Completely agreed! It’ll shift at the same rpm regardless of axle. If you want to change the rpm though...
 
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