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Engine Noise and Roller Rocker Movement

eagleone1983

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I always thought a lot of valve train noise was normal for BBs, though mine always seemed excessive. Decided to pull the valve covers and poke around today, I'm a novice and learned everything I know from here, youtube, and books. I noticed the roller rockers have quite a bit of side to side movement, over .035" worth (that's the largest feeler gauge size I had) but it's pretty close to being that measurement. When I first built the car I didn't even know that was something that needed to be checked. I read the side to side play should be between 0.015 - .030 while getting the tip of the rocker as close to center on the valve stem as possible.

I'm running Comp Cam magnum rollers with a stock shaft, stock hold downs, and stock spacers. Besides the shims is there anything else I should consider upgrading replacing to correct this. Engine is a 383 with 440source Stealth heads.
 
I always thought a lot of valve train noise was normal for BBs, though mine always seemed excessive. Decided to pull the valve covers and poke around today, I'm a novice and learned everything I know from here, youtube, and books. I noticed the roller rockers have quite a bit of side to side movement, over .035" worth (that's the largest feeler gauge size I had) but it's pretty close to being that measurement. When I first built the car I didn't even know that was something that needed to be checked. I read the side to side play should be between 0.015 - .030 while getting the tip of the rocker as close to center on the valve stem as possible.

I'm running Comp Cam magnum rollers with a stock shaft, stock hold downs, and stock spacers. Besides the shims is there anything else I should consider upgrading replacing to correct this. Engine is a 383 with 440source Stealth heads.

Post a pic so we can see what you have.
 
Here are the pics

20200906_204844.jpg 20200906_204848.jpg
 
Post a picture of the oil baffles inside your valve covers, especially the one below the fill neck on the left side. It may not be clearing the push rod adjusters and will sound like a bag of ball bearings if you don't cut a hole(s) for clearance. I don't remember the brand of rocker I used but the issue was very clear when you see the dents in the baffle.

That is the only input I have.

D
 
Hate to be captain obvious but you put feeler gauges together to get a bigger reading.
 
Hate to be captain obvious but you put feeler gauges together to get a bigger reading.

Frank, that is proof that education degrees dont mean ****, I've got a Bachelors and two Associates and I didnt think of that . I'm new at this and never used a feeler gauge before, don't all laugh too loud.

Maybe if I was a crew chief instead of Avionics in the Air Force I'd have known better
 
You need to change those hold downs to get rid of the space and use shims. Do the comp rollers have specific hold downs that should be used? I dont know of any aftermarket rollers that can use the stock hold downs without issues or being shimmmmmmmed to death.

I dont know if there are specific hold downs or not but if not do I just pick up what ever Mancini, Summit, or 440source have?
 
I wouldnt just grab any set. Contact comp and see what the recommend. Someone on here has probably used those before that can advise what works best as well. I only use harland sharp. I get all of their hold downs and a couple sets of shims and spacers. Its always a tedious task of measuring and lining everything up and I need different size shims/spacers depending on heads/engine.
 
I wouldnt just grab any set. Contact comp and see what the recommend. Someone on here has probably used those before that can advise what works best as well. I only use harland sharp. I get all of their hold downs and a couple sets of shims and spacers. Its always a tedious task of measuring and lining everything up and I need different size shims/spacers depending on heads/engine.

I found my old paperwork from when I bought these rollers back in '09. Looks like Comp has updated their part number (and pricing, I paid $470 for the kit its now $761) for some reason, my part number was 1321-16 and isn't made anymore. It does state it came as a kit with shafts, spacers, and hold downs so I guess I'm not running OEM. It was so long ago I don't remember replacing all that stuff but I guess I did. Comp doesn't make any suggestions to hold downs only that "The rocker arm dividers are stampings; tolerances are somewhat loose and fitting may be required to achieve proper clearance between the rocker arms. Minimum clearance should be approximately 0.030"."

So I'll definitely need to shim it as I thought, I'll wait to see what the rest of the guys recommend on here for hold downs and shim kits.
 
I would also check the pushrod lengths as well while you are at it. I have had to change those as well on some and sometimes place shims under the shafts. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
 
1) you don't need new hold downs.
2) your clearances are acceptable
3) you can get/add shims to tighten up the clearance, if you like.
 
I'd use the hold downs like Hughes or 440 Source. The contact area of the stock style is small & can cause wear. The process of shimming is tedious, but attention to detail pays off.
 
Alot of valve train noise actually comes from the lifter valley. The sheet metal valley pan acts like a diaphragm and projects the sound. That's why Chrysler put the sound deadening pad under the intake.
 
Man....035 is loose especially for steel rockers. Most guys, myself included shoot for .015-.020 side clearance per pair and that's with aluminum arms which grow and tighten the clearance more than steel or iron. I'd set them at .015, run it up to temp and see if it's any quieter. After they're good and hot, check a few pairs immediately after shutdown and see what you have, and verify they didn't get too tight at operating temp.
But--that may or may not be the noise you're searching for. You didn't mention the cam but if it's a fast-lobe design hydraulic it will be noisy, even if it's not a 'wild' cam.
 
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And, this is spot-on...
I'd use the hold downs like Hughes or 440 Source. The contact area of the stock style is small & can cause wear. The process of shimming is tedious, but attention to detail pays off.


@eagleone1983 I have some Comp hold-downs out in the parts stash that have very little use. They're yours free if you want them, you'd just have to get the proper bolts. If you're interested just PM me an address to send them to..
20200907_134713.jpg
 
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Been running 0.012" - 0.015" per pair with stainless rockers for years, no problem.
 
It may seem like a reach. But one of the episodes on Engine Masters tells you exactly how to adjust your rockers for a roller rocker application. I learn a lot from that show.
 
I noticed the roller rockers have quite a bit of side to side movement, over .035" worth (that's the largest feeler gauge size I had) but it's pretty close to being that measurement.

Looking at some Comp info for your other thread, Comp says a minimum of 0.030" for side clearance. Again, you can run less, but what you have is not a problem.
 
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