base clear coat

dadsbee said:

Ruined I say.. ruined...fml...
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Ya you should be ashamed of yourself

How about imron paint

Imron was what DuPont called their polyurethane industrial paint. It's tough as nails but not the only tough paint out there. A friend, way back around 1977 painted his project Nova with Imron, and it looked really sharp. However, it can be hard to spray because it's so thick - often requiring heating up to thin it. The same reason that makes it touch also makes it more likely to get orange peel. And it's generally available in industrial colours only; if you want to paint your Coca-Cola fleet, or BNSF locomotive, they'll have your colour but don't go looking for something to match up your vintage Charger or 1980 Dodge pick-up. Around 70% of new semi trucks are using Imron from the factory, and they likely get the 55 gallon drums. The Imron mixing system is very expensive, most jobbers would lose money with it unless they supply a major truck or light aircraft paint shop. As with all isocyanate paints, you need a good respirator with supplied air.

Photon440 said:

Imron was what DuPont called their polyurethane industrial paint. It's tough as nails but not the only tough paint out there. A friend, way back around 1977 painted his project Nova with Imron, and it looked really sharp. However, it can be hard to spray because it's so thick - often requiring heating up to thin it. The same reason that makes it touch also makes it more likely to get orange peel. And it's generally available in industrial colours only; if you want to paint your Coca-Cola fleet, or BNSF locomotive, they'll have your colour but don't go looking for something to match up your vintage Charger or 1980 Dodge pick-up. Around 70% of new semi trucks are using Imron from the factory, and they likely get the 55 gallon drums. The Imron mixing system is very expensive, most jobbers would lose money with it unless they supply a major truck or light aircraft paint shop. As with all isocyanate paints, you need a good respirator with supplied air.

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Great Info on imron thank you.

Photon440 said:

Imron was what DuPont called their polyurethane industrial paint. It's tough as nails but not the only tough paint out there. A friend, way back around 1977 painted his project Nova with Imron, and it looked really sharp. However, it can be hard to spray because it's so thick - often requiring heating up to thin it. The same reason that makes it touch also makes it more likely to get orange peel. And it's generally available in industrial colours only; if you want to paint your Coca-Cola fleet, or BNSF locomotive, they'll have your colour but don't go looking for something to match up your vintage Charger or 1980 Dodge pick-up. Around 70% of new semi trucks are using Imron from the factory, and they likely get the 55 gallon drums. The Imron mixing system is very expensive, most jobbers would lose money with it unless they supply a major truck or light aircraft paint shop. As with all isocyanate paints, you need a good respirator with supplied air.

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You are correct on the Iscocyanates. Today, it's a Xalta(formerly DuPont) product. I use it a lot and just as any paint, the more practice, the better you learn the characteristics.
Typically I use 3.5HG, 9T100A and M32 Thinner with accelerator most of the time. I can make it flow like glass.
Fyi, you can actually brush and roll it with an additive for those who may want to refinish a trunk or paint a floor without all the masking and overspray.
It is very hard and I wouldn't ask my worst enemy to cut and polish it as it's very hard after the first 24-48 hours.
Black or white averages $80per gal, $42 2qt of hardener (4:1) with Thinner, under $200 per sprayable gallon. Corlar epoxy primer is used on all steel surfaces and polyester filler and primers on top with urethane primer prior to finish application.
It does hide a lot of sins that BCCC will reveal as in marginal bodywork due to the mil thickness.
One of my favorite OEM looking finishes was using the old Centari system(discontinued) with basecoat hardener and Urethane clearcoat.

I've used Imron on amusement rides, race cars, roll cages, trailers, football/baseball helmets(yes,it holds up to impacts), caskets......it's very versatile.

I gotta add, if you have projects with good, well prepped steel there is also a DTM version of Imron that I've used on trailers, tube chassis subframes and connectors that works flawlessly and wears like iron.

bearman said:

How about imron paint

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Wow, that's a name I've not heard in 45 years

Wow, finally found someone who feels exactly as I do. I will walk past 500 perfectly painted, shiny as hell, big money, 2 stage paint jobs, to look at one "derelict" original paint car. I have told anybody that would listen, that " Muscle cars" just don't look right, to me, with 2 stage paint jobs. I do think some cars are ruined by their too perfect, too shiny paint. Just my opinion, but good to know I'm not the only one. Nothing better than original paint. The guys on here with original paint cars, no matter the model, have my unending envy ! Keep the faith Tim Zeigler, you are not alone.

I like the acrylics, but they are really hard to keep up with high UV exposure. You have to decide if you want to paint every 6 to 8 years because of deep down sun damage, keep it covered all the time, spend a lot of time waxing or pay for clean and treat. For a car that is not completely original and is driven pretty often the extra time and money for a B-C will keep your car looking better much longer. As for B-C peeling, either the process or the material was not correct if done correctly the bond should make them like one layer. Also if you get chips you need to seal them as soon as possible to prevent foreign material from infiltrating and causing the paint to lose its bond. The presoak at a car wash has chemicals that will pull all of the protecting elements out of the raw paint and primer if it gets into a chip.