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Oh boy, I think I messed Up.

Baller

Baller

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The car I bought in project state had made little progress over the last 5 years. I decided this year to get it running and stopping so that I can at least drive the thing. Bugger the full resto as I have realized that I don't have time for it currently. Once I had the wiring for the engine figured out, I went to turn it over. Clunk. WTF? Clunk. The starter engaged but the engine doesn't turn over. As I lack a 1 1/4" socket, I tried a pipe wrench on the crank pulley. No way is that moving. So I pulled the plugs and found this:

20200911_164810.jpg


Seems that #5 cylinder had water in it at some time. Intake valve was closed. No sure about the exhaust. So, what is the best fix to free this stuck piston. I have turned the engine over in the past, so this has occurred in the past 4 years. I guess I should have turned it over by hand every so often.
 
get a half inch drive ( at least ! ) 6 point socket with a nice long breaker bar and a piece of cheater pipe.
soak the cylinders for a coupla days with marvel mystery oil,keep trying each day to break it free.
do not go full bore crazy the first 2 days trying to break it free,let the oil do its work.
make sure you get All the cylinders lubed up,not just that 1.
do Not use air tools.

let us know how you make out.
 
Yes fill all the cylinders with something....I like ATF, cheap and works well at penetrating the corrosion. I would not go hog with a bar and cheater pipe...just a good six point socket and a 2 foot bar should be all you need...If you go after it with anything more you may break a ring or cause the stuck ring(s) to break off a piece of the cylinder wall...ask me how I know that can happen.:(
 
If it is frozen, you may get it to turn after soaking but count on more than a hone and set of rings if you plan on driving it.
 
MoparLeo said:
If it is frozen, you may get it to turn after soaking but count on more than a hone and set of rings if you plan on driving it.
Click to expand...

I have a 440 in my 68 Chrysler wagon that was stuck, got it to roll over eventually and have put over 10K miles on that motor. Does it burn some oil...yup, is the compression even across the cylinders..nope, does it fire up every time and still have enough grunt to light the tires up and put a smile on my face...sure does!

Get that motor to roll over and start enjoying it and the car that it is powering. ;)
 
I'd also jack up the drivers side to get the piston top as close to horizontal as possible so that the oil will soak all the way around up the bore as high as possible fill the other cylinders with Mystery oil or some type liquid wrench stuff.
 
Remove the engine and take it apart. If only one cylinder is like that, you should have no problem. If you start with that piston, you can work it and soak it from both sides. Use a bar (ON THE PISTON ONLY), and try to knock it out from the bottom. Once you get it far enough away from the crank, knock the rod bolts out for more room, and it also prevents them from hitting the crank. Don't worry about damaging the piston, because you will need to bore and hone the block. The rusted hole WILL need a sleeve because the rust pits will be too deep to clean up with a normal overbore. I wouldn't bother with a cheater bar or anything as you don't want to bend a rod. Once you get the rod cap off, you can start working back and fourth with the hammer and bar.
 
Along with pouring fluids on top of the pistons, you could also drop the oil pan, and spray p b blaster on the cylinder walls. Especially right before you nudge it.
 
Or you could get a BFH and beat the snot out of it!!!
 
khryslerkid said:
Nobody is wondering why there is water in this one cylinder?
Click to expand...
Exactly.

And after you fill all the cylinders with your favorite fluid, how do you turn it over?
 
khryslerkid said:
Nobody is wondering why there is water in this one cylinder?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is what I was wondering as well. Considering that the intake valve was closed, I wouldn't think that any water that may have leaked down the carb would have made it in, and why only that one cylinder. I'm hoping it's just the head gasket, but why would the cylinder be dry when I pulled the plug. There is water in the block. I'll pull the thermostat to confirm.
 
Baller said:
Considering that the intake valve was closed, I wouldn't think that any water that may have leaked down the carb would have made it in.....
Click to expand...

Under what scenario would water leak down the carb?
 
Update. I pulled the thermostat confirmed that nice green antifreeze is up to the top. Engine oil is clean and fresh as it was years ago when I got the car. I'm going to let it sit with the cylinder filled for a few days before trying to break it loose.

I may also temporarily remove the hood latch...
 
Might be a good idea to pull the heads and make sure.
The T stat housing can still be full but the rad a tad low.
It would make it easier to soak the cylinders. And once the engine is free you can inspect the affected cylinders.
 
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