No spark, no nothing.....

zeek · Sep 5, 2020

I just purchased this little jewel last week. The guy I got it from said it would crank but no start. It's got an older MSD setup from box to distributor. The car has been sitting for a few years and when I pulled the cap off, it was full of corrosion and rust. The coil was leaking oil and the ballast resistor looked old and tired. I cleaned up the dist., replaced the coil and ballast, but nothing, nada, squat! I think the old msd box is gafunked.

I ordered a complete new electronic ignition system today and hope this will cure my problems. New parts should be in by end of the week.

RJRENTON · Sep 5, 2020

zeek said:
I just purchased this little jewel last week. The guy I got it from said it would crank but no start. It's got an older MSD setup from box to distributor. The car has been sitting for a few years and when I pulled the cap off, it was full of corrosion and rust. The coil was leaking oil and the ballast resistor looked old and tired. I cleaned up the dist., replaced the coil and ballast, but nothing, nada, squat! I think the old msd box is gafunked.

I ordered a complete new electronic ignition system today and hope this will cure my problems. New parts should be in by end of the week.

View attachment 998169 View attachment 998170 View attachment 998171

Looks like a vintage 361 or perhaps a 383 with an Edelbrock Torker Ii manifold. Suggest you contact Halifaxhops on this site for a points type distributor to get it running....and then switch over to an electronic system after you get all the bugs worked out.....but it's my opinion just keep the origional setup for an occasional use vehicle. There are others that will disagree and push for an MSD or Pertronix or Revinator or similar system but your car started out life with a points system. It just may be the easiest thing to do to start out with.
A 1965 Dodge is a great looking vehicle......
Just my opinion of course

zeek · Sep 5, 2020

RJRENTON said:
Looks like a vintage 361 or perhaps a 383 with an Edelbrock Torker Ii manifold. Suggest you contact Halifaxhops on this site for a points type distributor to get it running....and then switch over to an electronic system after you get all the bugs worked out.....but it's my opinion just keep the origional setup for an occasional use vehicle. There are others that will disagree and push for an MSD or Pertronix or Revinator or similar system but your car started out life with a points system. It just may be the easiest thing to do to start out with.
A 1965 Dodge is a great looking vehicle......
Just my opinion of course

Thanks for the input....Its a 440 HP2 engine, not sure what year yet as I have not looked at the actual engine production numbers. I ordered an electronic ignition package for it to replace the old MSD system. Im pretty sure that once I pull the old dist. and MSD box and replace it with the new system, it will be running great again!

66Satellite47 · Sep 6, 2020

Let us know what you went with. If it's a Mopar style electronic, be sure the ECU case is well grounded. MSD's do fail. Although my first MSD 404BC (mid '70's) which had the rep of somewhat poor reliability, mine lasted for a few thousand runs. Keep us updated.

khryslerkid · Sep 6, 2020

zeek said:
Its a 440 HP2 engine, not sure what year yet as I have not looked at the actual engine production numbers.

Look on the pad in front of the block and see what letter is stamped in front of "440". The letter will tell you what year. This and other stampings on the pad are all described here...

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html

zeek · Sep 6, 2020

khryslerkid said:
Look on the pad in front of the block and see what letter is stamped in front of "440". The letter will tell you what year. This and other stampings on the pad are all described here...

http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html

Thanks. I did see that before but I'm still confused. Mine has an E stamped on it, but according to that site, it could stand for the year made (1969) or it says further down that E stands for cast crankshaft. ?? Mine is also stamped with HP2. I know the HP stands for factory high performance, but what does the 2 stand for?

RJRENTON · Sep 6, 2020

zeek said:
Thanks. I did see that before but I'm still confused. Mine has an E stamped on it, but according to that site, it could stand for the year made (1969) or it says further down that E stands for cast crankshaft. ?? Mine is also stamped with HP2. I know the HP stands for factory high performance, but what does the 2 stand for?

The numeral "2" means the assembly was made on the second shift. You would need to look for the block stamping number located on the passenger side right above the oil pan flange in a stamping pad for the serial number. I believe the last 6 digits of this number are related to the VIN number. There is also a casting number, in raised numerals, near the stamping pad that shows the block casting number and core number. The E in the E440HP2 is the year not whether it has a cast crank. Most (all) HP engines were produced with a forged crank. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

khryslerkid · Sep 6, 2020

zeek said:
Thanks. I did see that before but I'm still confused. Mine has an E stamped on it, but according to that site, it could stand for the year made (1969) or it says further down that E stands for cast crankshaft. ?? Mine is also stamped with HP2. I know the HP stands for factory high performance, but what does the 2 stand for?

Should be a '69 block. There's casting numbers and other stampings on the block that will be dated just before assembly that will verify the "E" as the correct year.

A cast crank can normally be determined by the style of dampner on the crank.
http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm

The "2" after the "HP" has been debated. Some say 2nd shift. There's no difference between a HP and a HP2.

zeek · Sep 7, 2020

After doing some more research, it is a '69 440 factory high performance engine with the forged crank....Cant wait to hear this thing running!

66Satellite47 · Sep 8, 2020

zeek, good luck with the new ignition, let us know which version you got. The intake appears to be a later model Mopar (or other aftermarket) piece. Does it have the casting number/model cast on it? Any idea which carb it has?

zeek · Sep 8, 2020

It has an after market carb. Looks like a big one too!

zeek · Sep 11, 2020

66Satellite47 said:
zeek, good luck with the new ignition, let us know which version you got. The intake appears to be a later model Mopar (or other aftermarket) piece. Does it have the casting number/model cast on it? Any idea which carb it has?

Sorry, I didnt notice this question before. It does have a casting number on it but I could not find a cross reference for it. Here's a pic of it.

EDIT: Never mind....I just did another Google search and came up with lots of info. It appears to be a Mopar Performance single plane manifold.

66Satellite47 · Sep 12, 2020

Good manifold, will want a fair amount of gear & may take carb tuning for street use.

zeek · Sep 15, 2020

I got my new electronic ignition kit yesterday. Waiting for Sally go leave before I can work on installing it. Quick dumb question......does it matter what position I mount the ignition box on the firewall relative to the mounting holes? Looks like I will have to mount it with the holes in the horizontal position so as to be able to pick up existing holes in the fire wall.

66Satellite47 · Sep 15, 2020

You can mount it any way. Just make sure you have a good ground connection of the ECU case. I sand the paint off the back of the case around the mounting holes & around the mounting hole in the firewall.

No spark, no nothing.....

zeek

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RJRENTON

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zeek

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66Satellite47

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khryslerkid

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RJRENTON

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