BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
thank you in advance!!!
Prep for primer question.
- Thread starter BAFRAID
- Start date
thank you in advance!!!
slimt
Well-Known Member
Yup. Sand the e coat with 320 paper. And sand all edges. You do not have to remove it all. If you hit metal. Dont keep sanding ,you dont want to polish the metal. Just scratch it. Make sure you use direct to metal primer. So no etch primer is involved . Any coarse areas the you used a sanding board on. Just use 180 grit to feather back the inline scratches on the metal. Your doing fine.
69L48Z27
Well-Known Member
Some will recommend removing the E-Coat but you can prime over it with one simple test. Take lacquer thinner on a rag and wipe. If the black comes off then take it down. No black, start scuffing and shooting.
slimt
Well-Known Member
New aftermarket bumpers are the worse ones. Thats a messy job.
plymouth67
Well-Known Member
I would and always remove all of this i can. This is an e-coat paint and is only applied to keep your new panels from rusting during shipping/storage. It is made to coat the panel but not necessarily adhere to the panel.
I agree. Who knows how good that coating actually is.
- Local time
- 5:56 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 19,432
- Reaction score
- 63,587
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
I'm not a body and paint man.. but ALL of mine was glass beaded off, epoxy primed and then body work performed to completion with a lot of hand sanding to boot.
slimt
Well-Known Member
It would not take long to sand it off if that is what you choose to do. Everyone has a different way of doing this.
slimt
Well-Known Member
Feathered all the surrounding areas Where body work was done with 220grit Sanded the rest with 320. Then prime , block, re sand 320 knowing the body work is done right. Then 500 final sand and 800 the blend panels.
Last edited:
plymouth67
Well-Known Member
Not trying to second guess anybody but, take some 180 throw it on a DA and see how fast that black e coat comes off, its pretty fast. You would want to spend thousands of dollars on paint and, paint over something that doesn't bond to the metal that well??
Now take that same 180 on a DA after you have stripped all that off and put down some epoxy primer and, see how much more work it is to get that off.
Unless your building some crazy *** drivetrain for it then, this is the biggest investment your going to make in your car, even if your doing it yourself you will have some money and, a TON of labor in getting to the point of paint. You also can't hide from the result, it will be staring back at you everytime you look at it.
Now take that same 180 on a DA after you have stripped all that off and put down some epoxy primer and, see how much more work it is to get that off.
Unless your building some crazy *** drivetrain for it then, this is the biggest investment your going to make in your car, even if your doing it yourself you will have some money and, a TON of labor in getting to the point of paint. You also can't hide from the result, it will be staring back at you everytime you look at it.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I don't buy the whole "remove all of the e coating" line, yes it reassures an excellent base by removing it and epoxy priming the metal but not all e coatings are created equal either. I always test it first with lacquer thinner then with sandpaper, you can tell if it's crap.
It's been several years since I did a set of AMD quarters but at that time the e coating was pretty good stuff with a little thickness to it, other brands I've used were mostly garbage and had to be removed. I've got well over 25,000 miles on mine and the quarters still look great.
Bottom line, if your not experienced enough to be able to tell the difference just sand it all off and play it safe.
It's been several years since I did a set of AMD quarters but at that time the e coating was pretty good stuff with a little thickness to it, other brands I've used were mostly garbage and had to be removed. I've got well over 25,000 miles on mine and the quarters still look great.
Bottom line, if your not experienced enough to be able to tell the difference just sand it all off and play it safe.
- Local time
- 4:56 PM
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2009
- Messages
- 34,078
- Reaction score
- 41,880
- Location
- Pasadena, Texas
I'm with 747 on this and did a good bit of reading before doing my daughter's car. It's a 03 Pitiful Thing that got messed up and I replaced the fender and scuffed the E coat and epoxy primed it then hit it with base/clear. Since I haven't done much paint work, I'm not going to say what I think is best but like the idea if lacquer thinner doesn't lift it, it's a go once it's scuffed etc and that's what I did. Even sanded kinda hard on the back side as a test. Figure if the back side is cheap, so is the front side. I did her car about 6-7 years ago I guess and it was still looking dang good when she got rid of the PT last summer. The car wasn't garaged at night but kept under a carport with a lot of cat traffic but sat out in the weather all day where she works.
slimt
Well-Known Member
Totally agree. Its common practice to make sure you know what your working with prior to digging in on a job. All advice is good advice.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
I just tried the lacquer thinner test. It’s interesting, the quarter panels were both fine however the upper Cowell and the tail panel both got very tacky and dull when I put the lacquer thinner on them. I’ll probably end up sanding everything down.
Similar threads
