How to fix this?
- Thread starter BAFRAID
- Start date
GMP440
Well-Known Member
Looks like a 68 Coronet trunk lid. That's going to be pretty hard to get that dent out. What if you brought the decklid to one of those dent wizard places? I bet they could straighten that out.
Weld on dent puller with the spot welded tabs to pull on might do the trick. Punching from behind, even if possible, will leave you with all kinds of little high spots from the punch that'll suck to fix.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
69 coronet. That’s a good idea! Thank you
My neighbor is a paintless dent guy. He is amazing at it and has done some work for me but said point blank on the older **** its hard because the metal is so thick. That being near a corner and being 68 metal might be tough for that method but worth a shot. The only thing you have going is the metal being bare. If they can glue pull it you don't have to worry about them pulling finished paint with the puller.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Finally broke down and bought one after borrowing one a few times, should be in any body man's tool box.
Yes, burn about 4 studs in that crease then start tapping that high spot on the top down as you pull. The one I bought from Summit was American made too.
wvmarv
Well-Known Member
Might be cheaper to find another trunk lid.
Try finding a 68 Coronet deck lid cheaper than fixing that dent.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
I agree. However, I haven’t seen many 69 coronet trunk lids in Southern California and I would assume shipping for one would be ridiculous
69L48Z27
Well-Known Member
And, you’ll have more to fix than just that dent.
Use a stud gun like they said, easy peasy.
68 and 69 are one year only. Both are expensive.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
Might have to cut the skin off and work it back into shape. Then weld the section of skin back on.
I think this is making a mountain out of a mole hill. If this were in my shop, from what I see it's a 2.5 hour repair tops. Insurance companies in my area pay $55 a hour. If it were an insurance job I doubt they would pay that much time.
Strip to bare metal, use the weld on studs, pull, dolly, wipe and sand to 320. If they can't do that with 2.5 hours total time, they need to find a different profession.
Strip to bare metal, use the weld on studs, pull, dolly, wipe and sand to 320. If they can't do that with 2.5 hours total time, they need to find a different profession.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
I appreciate everyone’s advice. Sounds like the stud gun is the way to go. I appreciate your input Jerry. I can definitely see how for someone who does this as a profession could have an answered before even hearing the problem. Mechanical stuff I’m good with. Bodywork and metal work is new for me so I definitely appreciate everyone’s advice.
I ran and owned a body shop for about 15 years. No matter how you fix it, or have it fixed, I would never drill holes to pull the dent out. Drilling holes in a panel that is notorious for rust is asking for trouble.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
Thank you. I showed everyone the corner where it’s dented however if you flip the deck lid over up near both The right and left corners and along the rear Inside lip of the decklid there’s quite a bit of rust. I mean it’s solid enough to use For now and luckily the outer skin of the deck lid is solid but at some point I’m definitely gonna need a new one.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
There are pros and cons on the use of POR15 here, but you need to stop the spread of that rust somehow. In my opinion I would get that product, but there are many others out there. It will seal and encapsulate the rust and prevent the spread.
BAFRAID
She’s looking like a Super Bee again!!
I’ve been using this product. It seems to of worked really well with converting and sealing rust
Whatever product you choose, you need to to get it to the inside of the panel to seal it. The seams are the hardest part to fix and they still look good from the pictures. You show a couple of areas that are easy fixes, and a couple that are more difficult, but all in all it looks like it can be saved with no need to replace for a long time. It will be time consuming to fix correctly but in my opinion worth the trouble. If you are doing the work yourself, its just time more than money. Welding experience would be a plus.
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