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Big Block cam length

qkcuda

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Can anyone tell me the exact length of a big block cam? I am trying to figure out if I can swap the cam in my Charger in the car without having to remove the A/C condenser or grille. I have to change the intake this winter anyway, so I will be half way there.
 
The cam is just a little under 23".....but you'll need a bit of wiggle room
 
Thanks guys, I will get out the tape measure tonight. With factory air there is a lot of stuff in the way.

light blue intake.jpg
 
Thanks guys, I will get out the tape measure tonight. With factory air there is a lot of stuff in the way.

View attachment 1004976
Never tried to stick in a cam with the radiator in place but some cars have the room I'm told....but it's a good idea to place a piece of cardboard against the radiator to protect it.
 
Radiator definitely would have to come out. The issue is with the A/C condenser. Didn't want to have to open the system after I just got it recharged and working. If there is enough room the cardboard on the condenser would be a good idea.
 
Get one of them Milwaukee hole saws; no need to remove the radiator or AC condenser... :thumbsup:
 
Looks like no cam change in the near future. The tape is set at 23 inches, and extends a couple of inches beyond the grille.

IMG_20200921_183303.jpg
 
I changed the cam in my GTX years ago and I believe that I was able to lift the condenser up enough to install the cam without having to remove the AC lines. We’re talking 25 years ago so I could be mistaken.
 
I changed the cam in my GTX years ago and I believe that I was able to lift the condenser up enough to install the cam without having to remove the AC lines. We’re talking 25 years ago so I could be mistaken.
you could be right I've done it- sometimes does not work
 
Looks like no cam change in the near future. The tape is set at 23 inches, and extends a couple of inches beyond the grille.

View attachment 1005173
You can change a cam in an early Charger without removing grille. The condenser though,, if the hoses go over the rad support could it not be lifted/moved?
 
Maybe??? There is a flex hose on the drivers side and a short flex hose on the passenger side between the receiver/dryer and the firewall.

light blue front right.jpg light blue front.jpg
 
If you go ahead with the cam swap, take a bunch of photos of all the accessory bracket configuration. It can be a real puzzle to put back together correctly.
 
I have to do an intake swap, and there are enough brackets and hoses that I will need to take a bunch of pictures just to do that.
 
I was doing some research to see what the torque and horsepower numbers were on the various 361/383 versions with different factory cams. I came across an interesting comparison. The 1966 361 2bbl was rated at 265 HP @ 4400 rpm and 380 TQ @ 2400 rpm. The 1971 360 2bbl small block was rated at 255 HP @ 4400 rpm and 360 TQ @ 2400 rpm. Interesting given the longer stroke of the small block. I have pretty much resigned myself to sticking with the factory cam until such time as the engine needs to come out for a refresh. Going to run a compression test before I do the manifold swap just to check condition, but it runs very smoothly, so I would be surprised if there are any major issues.
 
smart move on the compression check
how's the timig chain-oem- nylon gears are fatal
stem seals can be changed in the car if burning oil- have someone follow while you get on and off the gas
blu smoke = stem seals
but they get in the plan and plug your oil pickup screen
 
Yes, I have one of those flexible scopes, so I am going to see if I can identify the timing gear when the intake is off. I believe the nylon ones were aluminum, so it should be pretty obvious. I was also planning to check the valve stem seals when it is apart. I have some in stock, just a pain removing the springs in the car. The engine only has 71,000 miles (I think). There is no evidence that the heads have ever been off.
 
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