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Voltage Regulator

bing69

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Location
Mason City, Iowa USA
I have a 69 Roadrunner. The voltage regulator on the firewall has two wires hanging off one side; one is blue and the other is blue with a white stripe. Are these two wires supposed to be hot even when the ignition is turned off?
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The "DK BLUE" goes to the ballast resistor; "GREEN" goes to alternator; "DK BLUE - TR" (striped one)
goes to ignition switch.
 
I try not to be critical on this forum as everybody has their own opinions, but anybody that uses Scotch Lock connectors should never be allowed to touch any wiring! Sorry, JMO.
 
I try not to be critical on this forum as everybody has their own opinions, but anybody that uses Scotch Lock connectors should never be allowed to touch any wiring! Sorry, JMO.
Thanks PRND21 for you input. The Scotch Lock connector was not my choice. I purchased the car April 2019 and that's where the previous owner had the MSD start wire locked in. I guess when he put the MSD box in the ballast resister was removed. Box went bad earlier this year and I'm having trouble getting to fire up. I don't understand why the two blue wires (one with a white stripe), coming off the voltage regulator are hot, with the key in the off position.
View attachment 1005315

The "DK BLUE" goes to the ballast resistor; "GREEN" goes to alternator; "DK BLUE - TR" (striped one)
goes to ignition switch.
There is no ballast resister, it was removed when they put in a MSD system.
 
Sorry, but I still don't understand why the two blue wire are hot - with the ignition turned off.
 
Criticism wasn’t directed at you, I assumed work was done by a previous owner.
 
What exactly is your ignition setup now ? Pictures ? What you have has been modified, we need to know exactly what the mods were to understand the problem.
 

Attachments

  • MSDMoparInstall.pdf
    1.9 MB · Views: 111
it should not be hot with the key off. Looks like you get the fun of figuring out what the previous owner did to the wiring...
 
Maybe that was power to the MSD box which is wired hot.
 
There is no ballast resister; it was removed when they installed a MSD box.
Nobody is going to know what all you have on the car if you don't tell us....
My name isn't "Kreskin", for example.

Perhaps you should start over and describe (preferably with some pics of something besides generic
little black boxes) of just what it is you DO have....
By the way, you might not have a ballast (I'm assuming it has been removed and the wires jumpered)
but that just means the connection point goes to the next in the circuit.

Having a factory wiring diagram helps, such as I was demonstrating to you.
Fetch your own free of charge here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27
 
Nobody is going to know what all you have on the car if you don't tell us....
My name isn't "Kreskin", for example.

Perhaps you should start over and describe (preferably with some pics of something besides generic
little black boxes) of just what it is you DO have....
By the way, you might not have a ballast (I'm assuming it has been removed and the wires jumpered)
but that just means the connection point goes to the next in the circuit.

Having a factory wiring diagram helps, such as I was demonstrating to you.
Fetch your own free of charge here:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27
EXCELLENT PLAN OF ATTACK. YES....additional pix would help in determining your issues. Follow #2's suggestion and eliminate the superfluous wiring, using the FSM's drawings. The pix of the MSD connections shows the capacitor charge circuit permanently connected to the battery, which will remain powered with the ignition OFF and with the system's ON/OFF signal receiving power from the ignition switch.
Someone else's interpretation of the "correct" way to hook up or install a component, is sometimes one of life's greatest mysteries. Just my opinion of course...
BOB RENTON
 
My name is Denny. I've had this 69 Roadrunner for about 1.5 years. 440/6 pack, 727 trans, headers, dana rear end. It came with a Mopar MSD, which worked great; until this year. Couldn't get it started, no spark. Replaced it with a FAST MSD which turned out to be bad and I had to send it to Tenn.. They're sending a new one, when they get some. Local power engine shop gave me another one and I'm leery about connecting it the same. I'm stumped why these two blue wires are hot with the key turned off. I pulled the ignition out today. There seems to be the same two blue wires (one w/a white stripe) joined and plugged into the ignition. With the key off, those two are also hot. I thinking I've got a bad switch; which wouldn't surprise me as I've already replaced the headlight, washer, wiper and dimmer switchs. I should also throw in that shortly after getting the car, I found a bunch of wires under the dash coming off the bulkhead block had been melted and stuck together. Two large red and a black wires running to the Alt were to blame. Replaced the block and some of the wires. I ran the red/black out of the block through the firewall on their own. Once I get the ignition switch replaced, I'll be back at it.
 
Make sure the battery stays disconnected then remove any wire that does not look factory. A flame on could occurr, you see what a stove top does those wires will do the same QUICKLY. Bought a Challenger and the wires under the dash looked like what you would see in a 14 story building, I moved one and up they went, lucky the battery cable was loose.
 
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