How to fix this?

After seeing the backside I wouldn't put any serious effort into that deckled.... 69's are allot easier to find than 68's.....

Besides he lives in the California desert, dry solid sheetmetal still exists in the area.... Just gotta find it..

Jerry Hall said:

Whatever product you choose, you need to to get it to the inside of the panel to seal it. The seams are the hardest part to fix and they still look good from the pictures. You show a couple of areas that are easy fixes, and a couple that are more difficult, but all in all it looks like it can be saved with no need to replace for a long time. It will be time consuming to fix correctly but in my opinion worth the trouble. If you are doing the work yourself, its just time more than money. Welding experience would be a plus.

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Thank you for your feedback. I figured I could fix it. I’ve been doing all the metal work and welding on the entire car. When it comes to these tighter spaces and with rounded versus flat areas to fix I find it much more difficult.
I apologize for so many pictures but just showing you an idea of what I’ve been working on. Prior to the super B I hadn’t done a whole lot of metal work. It’s obviously easier to line up and spot weld full panels. Patching stuff in has been a challenge but I’ve been able to do quite a bit of it.

@dadsbee showed some great pictures on how to fix that decklid. From your pictures I think you are plenty capable.

dadsbee said:

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Thank you for the pictures dadsbee!!

BAFRAID said:

View attachment 1003252 View attachment 1003251 View attachment 1003250 I am looking at this dent/kink trying to figure out how to pull it. My thought is to drill a hole in the back of the inner panel and use a punch to tap it out. I do not have a dent puller but maybe that would work better. Any thoughts?

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My 1st thought would be to use a weld on dent puller, but from my experience the the dent is too creased to pull. Usually the pieces that are welded on pull loose or tear away. If it was me, I would cut the dent out and weld in new metal. The metal on these older cars is much thicker and harder to move.

dadsbee said:

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Good Job! Tht is some great metal work.

Looks like a job for a pro bump guy, Sorry .............

tommytunes said:

Looks like a job for a pro bump guy, Sorry .............

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Well, those pros started somewhere. Lol. I’ll do my best. If it comes out good I’ll consider myself a bump pro. Lol thank you.

BAFRAID said:

I appreciate everyone’s advice. Sounds like the stud gun is the way to go. I appreciate your input Jerry. I can definitely see how for someone who does this as a profession could have an answered before even hearing the problem. Mechanical stuff I’m good with. Bodywork and metal work is new for me so I definitely appreciate everyone’s advice.

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Dent puller and body dolly is the way to go. You can get one from Harbor Freight for about $100. Make sure the slide hammer has a good amount of weight on it. I like to pull it till it's less than 1/8" before doing anything else.
You might want to get the panel chemically dipped first so you can find out how much damage you have and get the inside metal rust free. No point in killing yourself making repairs only to have them come back years later. Ideally, get it e coated as well.

GMP440 said:

Looks like a 68 Coronet trunk lid. That's going to be pretty hard to get that dent out. What if you brought the decklid to one of those dent wizard places? I bet they could straighten that out.

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u could try them but they r ment for the paper thin stuff i have some dents in my doors they saidthe dents r too big & the metal is too heavy , if u cant get beind it its stid gun& slide hammer time thats what we r going to do to my doors

You got this !!!! Don't 'bafraid'. I am working on my first car and came across similar situations. When first working on the dent try taking the dent out in the reverse order it happened; i.e. the impact point which is the first thing to happen comes out last. A trip to your local autobody supply shop should provide you with the necessary dollies, hammers, and shoes to get things close. Certainly use a dent puller as suggested but only after you have exhausted the hammer and dolly method. I did the above and was pleasantly surprised and pleased with the outcome.

It would also be beneficial for you to get a copy of "The Key to Metal Bumping" by Frank T. Sargent. This book has a subtitle of 'an instructive manual of body and fender repair practices'. Now don't be put off by the publication date of 1931 as the principles in this book are as applicable to today as they were in 1931. I can personally vouch for the info. The book does NOT have an ISBN number but reproductions can be readily found.

I too used a rust inhibitor named "Blue Steel". It is to be brushed on. Goes on white or light blue and then darkens. I have had no re-occurrence of rust where ever I have used it. It can also be poured into those tight spots were your brush cannot penetrate.

I had rust spots on the doors of my car like you have on the trunk lid. Stitch welding with a MIG welder is the ticket BUT take your time. All the best and YOU CAN DO THIS !!!