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Oh boy, I think I messed Up.

Baller, I may have missed this but, have you ever personally turned this engine over or seen it turned over?
 
Okay, so I needed to hide out in the garage on Sunday. The f'n engine still wouldn't budge. So, what the hell, I pulled the head off and this is what I found:
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Here is a close up of the corrosion in the cylinder I beat the piston with wood and hammer while my brother tried to turn the crank bolt. Hard work, but we freed it up. removed much of the scale from the cylinder. The cylinder doesn't feel pitted, rather more like there is some scale build up on the walls that I am able to remove. Head gasket was intact and I don't see any hairline cracks. I wonder is some dumbs*$t friend of my brothers may have poured something down one cylinder while the car sat at his place in a large barn. The pistons (TRW) are stamped .030, which I imagine is the overbore size. Anyways, I thought that I'd post an update. Thanks to everyone for their help and advice.
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...........The cylinder doesn't feel pitted...........

Really? It sure looks pitted. Even if it is, and if you're on a budget, I'd probably give it a go. Pull the piston and clean, check/free the rings, run a dingleberry hone, put it back together. I doubt many would agree.

Up until know, I was guessing that a mouse, and maybe his family made a house in there through an open exhaust valve, as I have seen in the past. Obviously that's not the case, and this actually looks worse.

I do like the piston. Old school, but gives decent compression ratio options.
 
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Really? It sure looks pitted. Even if it is, and if you're on a budget, I'd probably give it a go. Pull the piston and clean, check/free the rings, run a dingleberry hone, put it back together. I doubt many would agree.

Up until know, I was guessig that a mouse, and maybe his family made a house in there through an open exhaust valve, as I have seen in the past. Obviously that's not the case, and this actually looks worse.

I do like the piston. Old school, but gives decent compression ratio options.

i agree with you completely right down to the prior thoughts of mouse invasion.
but after seeing those pics id go one step further and re-ring it too.
all that rust/metal came from somewheres...
also Op,run a measurement tool inside the bores for taper.
 
UPDATE: Cylinder has been soaking for 2.5 days. Turning the crank bolt counterclockwise loosened it. Tightening it seems like I'll snap the bolt, which I assume would be bad. How much force should it take? I think I know that the answer, which is I'm f@*%$d and will need to pull the engine. Any other advise or tips or give me an idea how hard this should be to turn before breaking something would be much appreciated.
machne shop time they can get it out then rebuild the motor while u r @ it
 
Run a brush hone down the bore, look for a crack, see how bad the cylinder looks then. A quality rebuild is sure in the future, now, maybe later.
 
I will pick up a hone as I cannot raise the piston all the way up due to scale in the bore. I don't want to force it and create more problems. I may just pull it and send out the block for machine work and rebuild it at home.
 
Sitting around too long with coolant in the system it looks like.....
 
I've lost track. Was the cause determined for the water in the cylinder?
 
I've lost track. Was the cause determined for the water in the cylinder?

Who knows. It doesn't appear to be related to a cracked block or head, though I'm not certain I'd be able to see a crack.
 
well coke a cola will free is up by desolving the rusted area around the rings . so pour the cylinder full and put the plug in . and the next night , try it again with the plugs removed . just keep putting coke a cola in the cylinders until its free'd up . then you only have stuck rings to deal with , sounds like an overhaul min .
 
Who knows. It doesn't appear to be related to a cracked block or head, though I'm not certain I'd be able to see a crack.

Some cracks are really hard to see, even with a clean bore. Cracked head is a possibility. I cracked several 906's(extensive porting, big cam, HIGH RPM though). Rebuild really is in order.
 
The car I bought in project state had made little progress over the last 5 years. I decided this year to get it running and stopping so that I can at least drive the thing. Bugger the full resto as I have realized that I don't have time for it currently. Once I had the wiring for the engine figured out, I went to turn it over. Clunk. WTF? Clunk. The starter engaged but the engine doesn't turn over. As I lack a 1 1/4" socket, I tried a pipe wrench on the crank pulley. No way is that moving. So I pulled the plugs and found this:

View attachment 1001162

Seems that #5 cylinder had water in it at some time. Intake valve was closed. No sure about the exhaust. So, what is the best fix to free this stuck piston. I have turned the engine over in the past, so this has occurred in the past 4 years. I guess I should have turned it over by hand every so often.
 
I know this sounds crazy but it works. I pulled a 66 440 out of the junk yard to rebuild. It was stuck solid. I pulled the plugs and oiled it up. It wouldn't budge. I remember an old timer telling me he used coke. I really thought he was crazy but after a couple of days, it still wouldn't budge. I figured I had nothing to loose so I took the air hose and blew all of the oil I could out of the cylinders. I took a couple new 2 liter cokes and filled the cylinders late in the afternoon. The next morning I went out and tried to turn it with my breaker bar. It spun so easy I almost fell of the trailer. When I pulled the engine down, I found the coke had desolved the rust. It worked for me.
 
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