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Camber popping out

S

shovelluv

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Need help fellas trying to figure out why my 1970 rr keeps popping out to 100% positive camber. All the suspension components are new or in great used condition. this is the 4th time I have had it aligned and after about 20 miles the adjusting cams slide to the positive position. I checked for grease in between the washers and i nothing. I am wondering if the cam bolt does not clamp tight enough or is bottoming out on the threads? Any help would be great.
 
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shovelluv said:
Need help fellas trying to figure out why my 1970 rr keeps popping out to 100% positive camber. All the suspension components are new or in great used condition. this is the 4th time I have had it aligned and after about 20 miles the adjusting cams slide to the positive position. I checked for grease in between the washers and i nothing. I am wondering if the cam bolt do not clamp or are bottoming out on the threads? Any help would be great.
Click to expand...
Did you replace or check the cam bolts?
 
I ordered new bolts today for both sides. I would not have thought that they could stretch laterally so much that they would not clamp tight but it may be whats wrong. The car has never been in a wreck or fender bender. It has new upper control am bushings on both sides also. thanks
 
Originally, the retaining nut had a lock washer between the eccentric washer and nut.
If they are tight, they don't move.
The title of the thread had me first thinking of how the LCA mounting stud often ovals out the hole in the K member. It can be hard to see with the LCA in place. When that happens, the LCA often shifts IN toward center, the lower ball joint follows it, the camber goes positive and the toe goes IN.
 
check the lower control arm where it goes in to the k frame the sleeve that the pivot goes thru and the bushing for the control arm
 
I stripped out a few of the uca nuts before I realized they suck. Get 4 rear axle u bolt nuts. Same thread only taller so more thread engagement. Mine have been rock solid.
 
Hell of an idea. I've done the same.
 
Check the bump stop on the lower control arm as well
 
Kern Dog said:
Originally, the retaining nut had a lock washer between the eccentric washer and nut.
If they are tight, they don't move.
The title of the thread had me first thinking of how the LCA mounting stud often ovals out the hole in the K member. It can be hard to see with the LCA in place. When that happens, the LCA often shifts IN toward center, the lower ball joint follows it, the camber goes positive and the toe goes IN.
Click to expand...
threewood said:
I stripped out a few of the uca nuts before I realized they suck. Get 4 rear axle u bolt nuts. Same thread only taller so more thread engagement. Mine have been rock solid.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply but in my situation the nut is not stripped out on the shaft of the cam bolt.
 
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worn bolts or not the proper torque spec, upper control arm bolts are 65 ft. lbs.
 
NOSTRT980 said:
worn bolts or not the proper torque spec, upper control arm bolts are 65 ft. lbs.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Im torquing them to 80 ft. lbs now just to get it to try to squeeze. I see what tomorrw brings with the new MOOG bolts.
 
Please verify both of the cup washers are installed on each the new UCA bushing. I've had them fall out when installing. They have a short collar that goes in the rubber and makes contact with the inner steel sleeve. The ridges on the washers also dig into the steel to keep it from sliding. You can raise the front and easily look at them over the tire. If either is missing you'll never tighten it enough to keep it in place without destroying the bushing.

moog-moog-k408-360-giant-01-05.jpg
 
Thanks, When I pulled the UCA out for inspection they are all on.
 
The cams sit in a "bracket", sorry not sure of the exact term. Are they all mangled from somebody previously removing the old stuck ones? I've had trouble removing the old cam bolts and could see how someone could mangle that area pretty easily essentially letting the cam bolts turn.
 
Rusty 72 said:
The cams sit in a "bracket", sorry not sure of the exact term. Are they all mangled from somebody previously removing the old stuck ones? I've had trouble removing the old cam bolts and could see how someone could mangle that area pretty easily essentially letting the cam bolts turn.
Click to expand...
Had a truck once where someone went full circle with the adjusters which flared out the alignment brackets/channels. Did my best to use a hammer and drift to get them back to being somewhat in place again.
 
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