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Voltage regulator install

Packfan

Packfan

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I am looking to install a new voltage regulator on a '67 GTX. When the car was running there was a small "wift" of smoke every once in a while from behind the old one mounted to the firewall. When mounting the new one, does one of the mount bolts act as a ground for it or should I mount it using the three rubber bushings that came with it? The old one was loosely attached and if it needs to be grounded, that could have been my issue. Thanks, Eric

20201004_194458[1].jpg 20201004_194527[1].jpg
 
You have the wrong regulator. Should look like the one on the right. They ground from the attaching bolts.

DO NOT sand off the paint on the firewall! This grounds through bolt heads and threads, not on the flat metal that mounts it.

How many factory cars have you seen with the paint sanded off the sheet metal? You won’t see it, it is not necessary and could cause you problems on a car parked in the weather, when that metal rusts then all you have is an ugly mess. Or just parked in a garage without a dehumidifier in the NE USA.

All the bolts And flanges are plated or painted. The bolt heads rubs the paint off and it grounds right there.

If you want to ensure a good ground run a ground wire to the attaching bolt.

I’ve been to auto mechanics college, been certified, worked at dealers for many years and attended factory training classes. They teach you to stop rust and corrosion at electrical connections. Not contribute to it.
 
Last edited:
And they make them in solid-state now. Clean the paint off the firewall behind at least one of the bolt holes in the regulator for a good ground.
 
Your new regulator looks like one for a GM, three mounting screws & rubber insulators = GM....

Get a electronic regulator that looks original but works better...

I was afraid you were doing a regulator on an older car with a generator.... Those you don't just bolt on & hook it up, they need to be polarized...
 
If the voltage regulator does not have a GOOD ground, you can chase intermittent charging problems forever. Been there, done that.
 
khryslerkid said:
And they make them in solid-state now. Clean the paint off the firewall behind at least one of the bolt holes in the regulator for a good ground.
Click to expand...
Another vote for the electronic ones available now. That constant voltage is a wonderful thing,
especially if you're running electronic ignition.
 
Wells VR706 is a replacement for the old point type pre-1970 Mopars.
Auto Zone has them under their Duralast name same part number.Electronic.
Cool thing you can take the cover off your old regulator and snap it over the cover of the new VR706 to have the look of original.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. I was having an issue finding an original looking one and the the new one was listed under my car on Rock Auto. I am running a MSD distributor, 6AL, and MSD coil. There is also a new engine bay wiring harness since someone had it all butchered up. Connections at the bulk head connector looked solid. My issue was when I started the car there was the faint smoke from behind the voltage regulator and the car was overcharging (15.5 volts). Like I said before though, the regulator was loosely hanging there. I will remount it with a good ground and see if that takes care of my issue. I would be interested in swapping over to the electronic version that looks original. Any part #'s for the new one?
 
Thanks Darter6. I was typing a reply when you posted. I will check it out!
 
I have found many mistakes with RockAuto wrongly identifying parts.
Someone on Moparts sells a electronic regulator that is the look of the early point type too.
 
khryslerkid said:
And they make them in solid-state now. Clean the paint off the firewall behind at least one of the bolt holes in the regulator for a good ground.
Click to expand...

I have the solid state ones in both my cars and a spare for each of them. Money well spent.
Screenshot_20201005-075926_Chrome.jpg
 
Yep, ^^^^^same seller on Moparts.
 
Put electronic VR on my car. A member recommended fusing it to protect wiring in case of failure, put 7.5 amp fuse in on male spade side. Picture is what I used.
fuse.JPG
 
Some great advice here, thanks. Can I assume even the electronic ones get grounded to the firewall?
 
Packfan said:
Some great advice here, thanks. Can I assume even the electronic ones get grounded to the firewall?
Click to expand...
Whether it needed it or not I did grounded it. The electronic one I bought was larger than stock.
 
Packfan said:
Some great advice here, thanks. Can I assume even the electronic ones get grounded to the firewall?
Click to expand...

Yes, ground it. Star washer to dig in or scrape a bit of paint off under the hole.
 
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