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Is this 440’s crank drilled for manual trans?

I'll ask a probably obvious question here....
If a crank isn't drilled for a 4 speed, is it even possible to install the transmission
(complete with the little nipple on the end of the input shaft, uncut) behind it?
 
Probably not. I had to cut an inch or so off the input shaft when I did a swap years ago. With the bellhousing installed, you should be able to do some measuring and see.
When I did my swap, I could not get the trans to go in that last inch. Took a while to figure out I had to cut the shaft.
 
moparedtn said:
....If a crank isn't drilled for a 4 speed, is it even possible to install the transmission
(complete with the little nipple on the end of the input shaft, uncut) behind it?
Click to expand...

I'm gonna' say "no",.......... that is unless you are spacing the transmission rearward for some special reason.


https://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml
upload_2020-10-7_8-48-49.png


The 440 auto crank I got my dimensions from...........
upload_2020-10-7_8-59-19.png
 
The typical 440 auto crank will not accept the standard 4 spd shaft. I have had cranks machined for the manual trans, but without the bushing that were installed in 727 cars. I guess whatever was on the line at the time got installed.
 
If you think the pilot bushing is frustrating, wait 'til you find a stick-shift crank register that isn't bored for a converter pilot. I've run across two, a 383 and a 340.
 
moparedtn said:
Ok, so the consensus is if one is able to bolt up the 4 speed and it pulls up flush, the crank is drilled then?
Click to expand...

In the many 440 cranks I've had, Some have had the machined hole that normally has a bushing for the 4 spd, BUT not the bushing, and had been in a 727 car. Seems the machined hole that would accept the bushing is the key. The "auto only" cranks don't have the secondary deeper drill hole for the 4 spd pilot.
 
66Satellite47 said:
In the many 440 cranks I've had, Some have had the machined hole that normally has a bushing for the 4 spd, BUT not the bushing, and had been in a 727 car. Seems the machined hole that would accept the bushing is the key. The "auto only" cranks don't have the secondary deeper drill hole for the 4 spd pilot.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks....and a 4 speed will not physically fit into the rear of an "auto only" crank therefore, yes?
 
I'm sure the pilot of a 4 spd will not go into the "auto" crank. You may see a crank that has the drill hole that was done for the 4 spd but may not be machined for the 4 spd bushing. Just my experience.
 
Just curious, will this AUTO vs 4-Speed crank issue pertain to 383's and 340's. I can get a 1966 383 Auto but I need to put it with a 4-speed, that is why I ask.
 
I'm sure there are cheaper places to get the bearing... like your Dodge dealer... Part number clearly shown in my previous post with pictures..
 
In my younger days I bought a pilot bushing, put a dowel through it and ran it on my fathers belt sander until it fit the crank hole. Cut the input shaft off 5/8" and had at it. Issue some are finding though is that auto pilot hole isn't always true and center. Today I'd go with the bearing..
 
dadsbee said:
In my younger days I bought a pilot bushing, put a dowel through it and ran it on my fathers belt sander until it fit the crank hole. Cut the input shaft off 5/8" and had at it. Issue some are finding though is that auto pilot hole isn't always true and center. Today I'd go with the bearing..
Click to expand...
My crank was drilled, not reamed.

I did similar to what you said, but on a lathe and tried to offset it to get it to run true.

I think it still ran out about .008, and have always imagined ( or not) that I can feel a vibration from it.
 
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