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Who uses Dielectric grease for their bulkhead terminals?

Never used it. I use a little bit of Lucas red tacky grease and wipe it off....just a residue left...
Think this is the stuff my father-in-law used on battery posts...if it is it does the trick!
 
If you can find it this is the stuff! We use it at work and it does a great job and easy to apply I use it on all the electrical connections on my cars.
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Dielectric on everything is my way. After 30+yrs of semi's in awful salt conditions I don't trust anything anymore. "Ironbuilt" may chime in anytime.
 
When I first bought my Road Runner in Dec. 2014 I started reading about the bulkhead connectors and checked them out. To my surprise, since this is a survivor car, they where nice and clean. I used Dielectric grease on them before putting them back together. No problems with it.
 
When I first bought my Road Runner in Dec. 2014 I started reading about the bulkhead connectors and checked them out. To my surprise, since this is a survivor car, they where nice and clean. I used Dielectric grease on them before putting them back together. No problems with it.
AND this a fuel system 'choke' setting guy(like me). We agree on a lot of things. (If your choke and related is set up correctly); fire it up and start driving. No warmup needed!Love dielectric grease!
 
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Just be careful...like anti-seize this **** WILL get everywhere! Good stuff though. I just did an addition to a panel in a corrosive and washdown environment, that I helped build 17 years ago....the connections that we used this stuff on still looked brand new.
 
I bought this several years ago. It has a selective top on it that you turn to change the size of the bead dispensed. There is no precautions written on the can pertaining to types of material not to use it on.
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This is something that me and many people have kind of gone around and around on. I did some testing and if you fill a terminal with it and then connect it and another terminal it will make a connection, so no worries there. The grease will keep out moisture and help keep corrosion at bay, so generally speaking it is a good thing to use especially if you live/drive in an area where it rains frequently, near salt water, etc. To put it another way, it isn't going to hurt unless you put it on or gets on silicon rubber surface but even then it is going to take some time to damage it, it isn't like acetone.
 
So, Dielectric keeps out the water but does not help the connection, but non-dielectric helps the connection but does not keep out the moisture.
 
I bought this several years ago. It has a selective top on it that you turn to change the size of the bead dispensed. There is no precautions written on the can pertaining to types of material not to use it on.
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Thanks for this info, Khryslerkid. I have always used it from the squeeze tubes. Didn't know it was available this way. I will be getting some. Also, found this video from CRC:
 
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Just be careful...like anti-seize this **** WILL get everywhere! Good stuff though. I just did an addition to a panel in a corrosive and washdown environment, that I helped build 17 years ago....the connections that we used this stuff on still looked brand new.

EXCELLENT PRODUCT.....like the old hair pommade product:..."just a little dab will do you". I aquired a similar product years ago when I was involved with assembling 5kv and15kv 1200 amp metal clad switch gear on all of the bolted buss bar connections. The product eliminated all joint corrosion yet conducted full current to pass thru the connection. I use it on the high current terminal connections especially the battery connections. BTW....di-electric grease and similar compounds are an INSULATING product that prevents cortosion but provides isolation of the connection.
BOB RENTON
 
Yep, dielectric grease is an insulator. My resto plug wires came with it and the instructions said DO NOT get ANY of the grease on the metal plug terminal or the metal end inside the spark plug boot. Getting grease on either of these two areas can result in misfires. Instructions said to apply the grease sparingly to the inside of the rubber part of the boot only. As I recall it said the grease will create an insulated barrier around the spark plug insulator body, preventing arching at the plug body.

Someone had packed the inside of two of my bulkhead female connectors with this grease, and I completely removed it from the connectors. The inside of the connectors were just filled with it. If this grease is an insulator, why the hell would you pack the inside of a female connector with it!?!?
 
I'll use a little bit, just enough to provide protection.
 
It is not an insulator nor is it a conductor. It's more neutral. Conduction happens with metal to metal contact. It just seals the contact. Ever pull any light bulb on any later model car? The socket is covered with it. I've used No-Lox for over 40 years which is what us sparkies use without any problem. Similar to dielectric grease that stops oxidation and moisture just a bit cheaper.
 
That is the right idea Kern. The recommended method for any automotive (and many others applications) is to use a small amount to keep out moisture, salts etc. The terminals scrape together removing the grease on the mating surfaces. That way you have metal to metal contact whilst surrounding the terminal in the grease, thus protecting it. I have used it for years on many low voltage applications such as amphenol plugs and military style connections. I have always used Permatex and never Vaseline.
 
On plug wires it's not so much as getting it on the metal contacts as it is on the carbon and ferrite used in the wire itself. The grease will breakdown those parts of the wire over time. The object is to have the grease between the wire boot and the plug insulator. It helps the boot slide on and off easier and helps to stop corona, the lightning show.
 
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Dielectric means the material can build a charge. Capacitors are two plates between a dielectric.
This also means that dielectric can leak voltage, but at 12V it is not an issue. At kilovolts it is an issue and dirt+moisture can mix with the dielectric and provide a leakage path. At the spark plug boots go easy with the stuff as that is kilovolts.
 
I don't think that the grease that comes with plug wires is actually dielectric grease but more of just silicone grease. Maybe I'm wrong? When I did 15KV terminations back in the day we used a silicone grease not dielectric.
 
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