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8 3/4 sure grip. What's the scoop?

Meep-Meep

Meep-Meep

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Just seeing a few options and wondering if anyone has experience with some of these new units. Years ago all we had was the OEM power lock 4 pinion carriers that were not terribly hard to find but now it seems many outfits are making them. The cone units of old would like to drop the spider pin but that may not have been too common or possibly brought on by poor reassembly.

Most recently I used the Dr. Diff carriers and was pleased but he's out of stock. I have a job to do for a customer and would like to get a reliable carrier even if it's from another source. So searching I found this ebay link, which seems promising. Eaton is certainly someone we have head of. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-8-75...125234?hash=item58cff5f6b2:g:fKgAAMXQVERSqKKP

Then there is this. The Nitro name screams cheese https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-8-75...435867?hash=item4d71207b1b:g:Tb0AAOSwzvlW~Lam

I heard the one sold or made by Randy's is below average (some say junk).

Anyone have a good core to sell that I can rebuild with a Dr. Diff kit? Or use as is?

What about the ones available on Mancini, specifically the Auburn? I really doubt my customer wants to spend $600.00 plus for a carrier. https://www.manciniracing.com/difas.html

The application is a restored 340 T/A Challenger with an auto so not like it's going to torture the rear end. Just not looking to buy junk and then have to fix it or get in a pissing contest with the seller.

Thanks in advance.
 
I've had terrible luck in recent years with Yukon's clutch diffs (742 casting)...and they supply, or at least they did supply, almost everyone. I completely understand the cost factor but man if you can talk them in to the Eaton Truetrac or at least an Auburn it's well worth it IMO.
 
beanhead said:
I've had terrible luck in recent years with Yukon's clutch diffs (742 casting)...and they supply, or at least they did supply, almost everyone. I completely understand the cost factor but man if you can talk them in to the Eaton Truetrac or at least an Auburn it's well worth it IMO.
Click to expand...
OK this is what I'm worried about. Yukon (maybe that's who supplies Randy's) is questionable quality and supply to many names. Dr. Diff has a nice product that he built but it seems he's out of stock so to get this done I may go for the Auburn or Eaton. The Dr. Diff SG unit is just about $500.00 so will see how much more the customer can tolerate. Auburn may be cheaper but if they are generally good units it might be just fine for this stock resto application.
 
FYI, I am not happy with my Eaton TrueTrac . It acts like a locker growling during slow turns with plenty of noise once the fluid gets hot.Just annoying but lights both tires just fine. Don't want to see you have a come back.
Did everything Eaton has recommended to no avail. My last hope is to change fluid to straight 140W.
A new Auburn cone will be fine for several years unless your customer is really hard on the car but you stated that the car won't be driven hard and last way longer. Sounds like the car won't be driven daily. Eaton clutch with the springs exposed will be ok too.
The best is the Chrysler/Dana V ramp clutch that lasts just about forever.Rebuild one of those and you and your customer will both be happy.
 
I was a sucker and bought the nitro sure grip.
Traction was not its friend. It grenaded after two summers. I stripped the gears and broke the shaft.

Same car, same 325 50 15 nitto drag radials but switched from 3.55 to 4.30.
I went to the Eaton tru track with helical gears.
Been beating on it for 4 years with lots of acceleration trials and decent traction. Has yet to break, but I will keep trying :-D
 
Darter6 said:
FYI, I am not happy with my Eaton TrueTrac . It acts like a locker growling during slow turns with plenty of noise once the fluid gets hot.Just annoying but lights both tires just fine. Don't want to see you have a come back.
Did everything Eaton has recommended to no avail. My last hope is to change fluid to straight 140W.
A new Auburn cone will be fine for several years unless your customer is really hard on the car but you stated that the car won't be driven hard and last way longer. Sounds like the car won't be driven daily. Eaton clutch with the springs exposed will be ok too.
The best is the Chrysler/Dana V ramp clutch that lasts just about forever.Rebuild one of those and you and your customer will both be happy.
Click to expand...
Awesome feedback! Thanks much. The cone may very well be the ticket since those were installed new in the day and are proven, and for this car should be just fine. I agree the old 4 pinion is the best bang for the buck and Dr. Diff makes it. By the way, Dr. Diff got back to me and said the lead time is a week.
 
Cranky said:
I installed a Powertrax Lock Right into a 69 road runner last year and the guy likes it. It does click on turns but imo, that's not a distraction but it will make people ask what's that clicking sound. It's one of those units you install into a stock open carrier....

https://www.summitracing.com/search...ers/product-line/powertrax-lock-right-lockers
Click to expand...
Well now! Lookey there. Interesting option but I don't think this customer will go for that. However, it may be an option down the road. Great info and feedback. Thanks!
 
dodgedifferent2 said:
I was a sucker and bought the nitro sure grip.
Traction was not its friend. It grenaded after two summers. I stripped the gears and broke the shaft.

Same car, same 325 50 15 nitto drag radials but switched from 3.55 to 4.30.
I went to the Eaton tru track with helical gears.
Been beating on it for 4 years with lots of acceleration trials and decent traction. Has yet to break, but I will keep trying :-D
Click to expand...
Thanks for the seat of the pants (or sole of the shoe) feedback. You confirmed my suspicion. If it sounds like Chinesium sum ting wong. Sounds like Eaton, Dr. Diff, or the cone type.
 
If you go with a cone type (which I would never recommend) make sure to use additive, and to be honest a double dose isn't a bad idea... I worked on these cars when the cone style units were pretty new, saw lots of noise when turning complaints, solved allot of them by adding a second bottle of additive... If the unit was run to long making noise the oil would be silvery (ground metal particles) and the S/G unit would be junk...
 
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