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Radiator / Heating Hose Drip Issues

The Rebel

The Rebel

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Hey guys. A few weeks back I installed all new hoses, I use the OEM style spring clips. I was hoping that as the hoses heated up so too would the clips and in so doing would slightly melt into the rubber making the clips tighten better.

Well I have 2 small drips & can't seem to get them to stop. I'm assuming I can use some type of silicone sealant around the outer edges to eliminate them but was wondering what you guys have done.

Thanks in advance,
Roger

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The "melting" of the material is referred to as "cold flow", where the material extrudes or moves under pressure of the clamps. What I do, when installing hoses, including the top and bottom radiator hoses, is coat the ID of the hose, b4 putting it over the fitting and before applying the clamp, with Permatex Hi-Tack adhesive-sealant. This material is a thick liquid in a brush on applicator can and is red in color. Very effective in preventing the very lesks you are experiencing. I'm sure others will have their own opinions and preferences. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
Screw type hose clamp.:D Have used a little silicone sealer. Know you want oem look so the sealer is probably the only way. I put it on pipes not inside hoses.
 
honestly, the rest of the world could not care less about what clamps you use.......I prefer the clamps that work, especially in a pressurized situation
 
Some Hi-Tack like Bob says or Permatex non hardening on the nipple before you put it on and it’ll seal with those clamps without issue. I would not use silicone.
 
The Corbin clamps or any other kind will never get tighter with heat. Just the opposite will happen as the metal loses its temper with heat. Worm type for sure is the way to go for positive seal. Also check your radiator cap holding no more than 16 lb. psi , and does not bleed down. Corbin clamps were very quick to install on the assembly line. You don't see them anymore for a reason.
 
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I'll second the permatex number 2 non hardening.
Having said that there is a reason why the majority of us use worm screw hose clamps.
 
Do you have another clamp, swap it out. I just did that this morning, walked in the shop and a puddle from one firewall to heater box hose weeping and a loose clamp. Other side tight as a drum. Tray under the hose, clamp ready and quickly swapped on a new one. No leaks and tight... for now anyhow!
 
MoparLeo said:
The Corbin clamps or any other kind will never get tighter with heat. Just the opposite will happen as the metal loses its temper with heat. Worm type for sure is the way to go for positive seal. Also check your radiator cap holding no more than 16 lb. psi , and does not bleed down. Corbin clamps were very quick to install on the assembly line. You don't see them anymore for a reason.
Click to expand...
I've not had any problems with the Corbin clamps, but I am looking for origionality, as this what was factory installed. YES.....worm gear type clamps are superior as far a holding power but are easy to overtighten if not careful. The other style of clamps used by GM and Ford were Whittek or "tower clamp" style....effective but difficult to release when needed.
BOB RENTON
 
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Yep, today switched out the older 2 clips with the newer ones on the upper hose. Went out for a nice long drive and checked under the hood when I got back, no leaks, Whew!

dadsbee said:
Do you have another clamp, swap it out. I just did that this morning, walked in the shop and a puddle from one firewall to heater box hose weeping and a loose clamp. Other side tight as a drum. Tray under the hose, clamp ready and quickly swapped on a new one. No leaks and tight... for now anyhow!
Click to expand...
 
The factory still uses spring clamps on new cars. These are for my 07 srt charger.

20201020_070614.jpg
 
Thanks Guys. Haven't had any issues after switching to the newer clips.
 
I think new heater hose is not as thick as original so the Corbin clamps dont hold as well.
 
Well 2 hours to find them.. 15 minutes to fix. One thing to note.. there is a relieved area on the water pump spiggets... I missed it and had my clamp too low on the leaker. I even gave in and crossed my hoses per the FSM, still looks clean with them crossed right under the corner of the washer bottle. I also put a smear of RTV inside each hose to hopefully stop a repeat of any leakage.
beecoolantcleanup 015.JPG
beecoolantcleanup 031.JPG
 
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So, on a related note, what is everybody doing about the smaller heater hose? The 9/16” hose doesn’t seem to be available, and the 5/8” hose drips on my car at the heater box nipples. I’ve been living with that all summer, but would like to cure it once and for all.
 
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