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Stripped and Dipped - Rare 1969 Charger 500 in Bare Metal

They certainly didn't waste time or money on making it look good. I didn't know that chemical dipping removed all the lead work.
 
The rear window plug reminds me of the 70 Challenger SE rear window.
 
I'm interested to know if it actually was 'acid' dipping or some other chemical. I have heard of acid dipping, and the big drawback is making sure that all traces of the acid are washed thoroughly away.

I had my GTX dipped, but in an alkaline solution bath. Same process, but takes several days. My car went through dipping/stripping, then a neutralising bath, then a wash down in clean water...then through all three stages again. I can assure you guys that the process is a lot easier on the pocket and the back than hand stripping - or sand-blasting.

Here is a link to the company that took on the job for me.
https://kiwimetalpolishers.co.nz/
 
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Longtime supporter of Nick's YT channel, to the point that I correspond with
him sporadically. It's a bucket list thing for me to visit the shop one day
and they've been very kind to me in communications and such.
With them, what you see is what you get - no manufactured drama.
 
I'm interested to know if it actually was 'acid' dipping or some other chemical. I have heard of acid dipping, and the big drawback is making sure that all traces of the acid are washed thoroughly away.

Its long been referred to as "acid dipping" but in reality, like blasting, there is no one solution which removes everything. In the case of body stripping it goes through a number of baths. The first is a "base" as opposed to an "acid". This one removes all the paint, undercoating, etc.. The next bath is a rinse so the next solution isn't contaminated by the first. Then into what is possibly an acid to remove the rust - but it won't eat the base metal. This is possibly the solution that removes the lead as well. The next bath is again a rinse of neutralizer. Then it gets a bath in a rust inhibitor.

This is probably the most common process for our purposes but in plants where they do e-coating the dipping is a seventeen step process.
 
What Nick said about building model cars as a kid rang home, me too. Around ten I was building the Skcool Bus, Beer Wagon, Hemi Under Glass and many other model cars.....who knew our "addiction" started so young......what about y'all.

Curious to see what dipping the motor is getting, something other than what the machine shops do....
 
While my brothers were outside horsing around I was on the sunporch assembling those same models and building custom rail dragsters out of the parts rack frame pieces and extra parts from many other models..lol. I'd buy some models just for the parts, not to assemble them...lol.
 
Its long been referred to as "acid dipping" but in reality, like blasting, there is no one solution which removes everything. In the case of body stripping it goes through a number of baths. The first is a "base" as opposed to an "acid". This one removes all the paint, undercoating, etc.. The next bath is a rinse so the next solution isn't contaminated by the first. Then into what is possibly an acid to remove the rust - but it won't eat the base metal. This is possibly the solution that removes the lead as well. The next bath is again a rinse of neutralizer. Then it gets a bath in a rust inhibitor.

This is probably the most common process for our purposes but in plants where they do e-coating the dipping is a seventeen step process.

About 40 mi from me,only thing beside rust removed is seam sealer.Once done,as long as not in humid condition,can sit as long as 60 days or longer,then only needs soap and water wash before regular paint preparation,I had this old pump and this Hemi intake dipped,both looked as new metal when they came out of tank.I will never have anything blasted again as long as I have this process.
http://www.mecchemicals.com/

P5010923.JPG P3270898.JPG
 
About 40 mi from me,only thing beside rust removed is seam sealer.Once done,as long as not in humid condition,can sit as long as 60 days or longer,then only needs soap and water wash before regular paint preparation,I had this old pump and this Hemi intake dipped,both looked as new metal when they came out of tank.I will never have anything blasted again as long as I have this process.
http://www.mecchemicals.com/

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Interesting, thanks for the link. One question....the full body prices are in inches....is that wheelbase inches or full body length with fenders, or shell length without front fenders or what? Most B Bodies are longer than 200 inches...
 
Interesting, thanks for the link. One question....the full body prices are in inches....is that wheelbase inches or full body length with fenders, or shell length without front fenders or what? Most B Bodies are longer than 200 inches...


Full body length.
 
But dipping isn't cheap. Around here its $2 per pound. On the other hand, blasting is somewhere around $180 and hour. The bottom line is it all depends on what you're doing.
 
The body shop they took the car to said dipping doesn't hurt the metal like blasting does.
 
There used to be a paint/rust stripper "dipping" company in Tampa,Fl. I wish they were still around. They did a great job on the parts i had dipped. I would have loved to have my last project dunked, rather than having to get blast media out of every crook, and nanny.
 
One area I'd epoxy seal would be rocker boxes. Talked to a guy who had his car dipped he put car on a rotisserie and sprayed and rotated the car until primer/sealer ran out every where. There must be a nozzle so you can spray 360* inside the rockers. Maybe do 3 coats to cover everything.
 
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