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69 Satellite Front Disc Swap Caliper Location

ATX B Body

ATX B Body

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Swapping front drums to discs. Using the Willwood 140-11020 kit. Instructions show the caliper being mounted on the front of the disc, but Doctor Diff recommends a rear mount (closer to firewall). What difference does it make? Something to do with sway bar or suspension parts? Installed it per the instructions and it fits just fine. What is the downside of leaving it where it is? Thanks in advance for the info and guidance?
IMG_7988.JPEG
 
I put mine to the rear because it hit the sway bar mounting tab when I turned the wheel. But I used the 73 A body spindle replacement.
 
On my 69 Charger I put the caliper to the rear because of sway bar interference with using the factory A body spindle setup with 11.75 rotors.
 
Mounted mine to the back also for the same reason
 
It will hit your sway bar in the front, but it looks like you don't have a sway bar.
 
Never a bad idea to follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the parts you're installing -
and in this case, Wilwood might know a thing or two about brakes, too. :thumbsup:

If you had a problem with their stuff, you'd know it - but I'm betting their instructions also
address the well known sway bar interference. In fact, I'd about guarantee it.
 
I suspect they added those instructions in order to quit getting calls about how to install them. I too installed mine to the rear because the instructions did not specify either at the time, and rear mount seemed to be the prevailing method on all the forums. . The way the kit is designed is so that they can be mounted either front or rear. i think if it made a difference from a performance or safety standpoint Wildwood would make it so they could only mount up one way as to avoid any risk of lawsuits.
 
If the calipers clear everything at all points of suspension and steering travel, and the hoses don't rub, twist or stretch, and the bleeders are up, you are good to go.
 
I followed your advise about 6 months ago and had no problems , worked like a champ. Thank you
When I called wildwood I got some guy from India that didn't know his *** from his elbow .
Moparmarks set me straight----Thanks again
Bill76
 
One thing to watch out for is the brake hose length and routing. The factory hard line end is to the rear of the disk, and the hose feeds through the suspension to the stock caliper location ahead of the disk. This makes routing the hose easier, as it doesn't have to take up as much change in length as when you mount the caliper to the rear. I mounted mine to the rear to provide clearance for the anti-roll (sway) bar attachment to the lower control arm and to move the weight of the caliper toward the centre of the car (this is pretty much a negligible change in car balance, but since I could do it I did). With the rear caliper location, when the wheels are turned to the left and right, the brake hose has to take up quite a bit of change in the distance between the hard line end and the caliper. This can lead to the hose being stretched and torn or pinched in the suspension if you are not careful. It is also harder to route the hose so that it does not rub on the suspension or the frame at some turn angle. These aren't big issues, but they are something to watch out for. Cheers!
 
You know what? I stand corrected - unless I'm missing it, Wilwood makes no mention
of sway bar considerations, at least in their online documentation for this kit (which
includes a link to their installation instructions):
https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-11020

I find that quite an odd omission from the largest aftermarket brake manufacturer in the
free world, don't you?
 
Wilwood most likely doesn't know anything about a Mopar installation so put the calipers where they'll work best. As stated above, verify clearance for all parts, verify hose routing and verify bleeder position. The parts are right in front of you so you should be able to figure it out.
 
When I did my brake hoses , I put jack stands on the bumper brackets and put a jack under the lower control arm then loosened the torsion bars all the way this let me raise and lower the front suspension from top bump stop to lower bump stop while turning the wheels from lock to lock and fitting the right length brake hose , took two try to get the right length hose and plenty of clearance and the whole deal hooked up to the stock hard line like Ma Mopar would have done it.
You have to make sure the hose is long enough when front suspension go's full drop or you might stretch and brake the hose---you also don't want it to long with un needed slack in it that might catch on the steering.
I used a 90 degree fitting on the caliper and a straight fitting to the hard line.
It was really quite easy
 
I put the 4 piston wilwood disc brake conversion on the front on my 67 Charger, since the caliper is smaller and fixed unlike the large bulky slider oem calipers there is no interference with the sway bar.
 
NOSTRT980 said:
I put mine to the rear because it hit the sway bar mounting tab when I turned the wheel. But I used the 73 A body spindle replacement.
Click to expand...

part # for those spindles? im about to order my wilwood kit and trying to make my 14" wheels work as well
 
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