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Some changes for LemonWedge

With my rear end shorten some here's what a 10 inch rim with 4,5bs looks like with that 29.5x10.5w tire looks like by that hump in the qtr panel

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yes, it’s got a bar in it. I crossed that threshold a couple of years ago.
I’m going to have to come to a decision on wheels pretty soon. I sold my old wheels this week, so there’s no going back now. These two are currently the options I’m leaning toward. The issue with the TT’s is that the 10” version is on 3-3/4” BS. I’m not sure I like the idea of a 6” deep dish look.
And no, I’m not going to spend forged wheel money.

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Take a look at team 3 or et 3 Wheels a little pricey but they can be ordered with the backspacing you would need , just a thought . 15x10 ft spacing 5-8 inches and rear spacing 3-6 inches
 
Take a look at team 3 or et 3 Wheels a little pricey but they can be ordered with the backspacing you would need , just a thought . 15x10 ft spacing 5-8 inches and rear spacing 3-6 inches

I do like those. Perhaps someday this car will get some high dollar wheels, but it’s just not in the budget this winter.
 
I do like those. Perhaps someday this car will get some high dollar wheels, but it’s just not in the budget this winter.
I have American Racing Torq thrust II on my 67 GTX, they are 15x8 and 4 3/4 backspace as you can order them as needed.
 
Moving the axle rearward 3/4”, I assume I’ll have to lengthen the driveshaft (??). What’s the best way to tackle this? I have a driveshaft company fairly local to me, can they work with my existing shaft, or am I going to have to source a new shaft?
 
I moved the axle location back 3/4" to gain the clearance to fit a 11.5x29.5W Phoenix tire. A GOOD local driveshaft shop can easily re-tube it. May have an issue with getting the tube material you want. It seems most local shops don't deal with chrome moly if that's what you want.
 
I do like those. Perhaps someday this car will get some high dollar wheels, but it’s just not in the budget this winter.
OK take a look on ebay and look up gasser wheels , there is a guy that will build you 5 spoke wheels in any off set . About $399 a wheel I know that you said that you do not have the funds for better wheels but spending money on make do items and they do not get the job done that you expect and then going back later and buying more is a waste of money . I know I have done this before , old age and hind sight .. just a thought !
 
“About $399 a wheel”.....
That’s $1600 for a set of wheels. I just ordered a full set of wheels, brand new 29.5x10.5 PBR’s, ET Fronts, valvestems, centercaps, a fuel cell, and fuel cell brackets with tax and shipped for that exact amount of money.

Listen, I just want to go racing and feel good about being responsible with my budget at the same time. I’ve run cast aluminum wheels on the car for the past 8 years with no problems and plenty of compliments and winlights coming my way. I appreciate the suggestion, but will very likely never spend that kind of money on a set of wheels, and I’m just fine with that.
 
Finally starting to see some parts show up from Jegs. Made a little progress today, getting the fuel cell mounted. I also got the rear end chunk torn apart. I’m happy to report I really like the look of the new wheels. Yes they’re cast, but even at 10”w, they would seem to be a lot lighter than my USMag Torque thrusts were.

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Finally starting to see some parts show up from Jegs. Made a little progress today, getting the fuel cell mounted. I also got the rear end chunk torn apart. I’m happy to report I really like the look of the new wheels. Yes they’re cast, but even at 10”w, they would seem to be a lot lighter than my USMag Torque thrusts were.

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That fuel cell sure fits down in there nicely. Will be good to see it plumbed.
 
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That fuel cell sure fits down in there nicely. Will be good to see it plumbed.

I currently run a deadhead fuel supply system. What’s the correct way to address the vent/return lines at the top of my cell? I assume they should just be capped, but it also seems that there should be a vent system there. Any help here is appreciated.
Thanks!
 
Just kinda of I did , didn't want to drill any unnecessary holes

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I currently run a deadhead fuel supply system. What’s the correct way to address the vent/return lines at the top of my cell? I assume they should just be capped, but it also seems that there should be a vent system there. Any help here is appreciated.
Thanks!

I would have a vent tube for sure. Upward U exiting the trunk area somewhere. If you don't use a return style regulator just cap the fitting. I ran my system deadheaded many, many years with no problems on my drag cars. I decided to switch to the return style for street driving(very limited) just in case, so I ran the extra 1/2" line back to the cell.
 
Got the fuel cell project pretty much done. Still need to loom some wiring at the pump, and I’m going to order a bulkhead connector with a filter on the bottom side for the vent tube. On to the next project: setting up the 4.56’s.

My custom US Cartools kit has shipped, should have it next week.
oh, and I got the rear wheels & tires mated. They won’t fit in the stock wells, so I can’t even mock it up for housing dimensions until the wheelhouses are cut. Progress.

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Got the fuel cell project pretty much done. Still need to loom some wiring at the pump, and I’m going to order a bulkhead connector with a filter on the bottom side for the vent tube. On to the next project: setting up the 4.56’s.

My custom US Cartools kit has shipped, should have it next week.
oh, and I got the rear wheels & tires mated. They won’t fit in the stock wells, so I can’t even mock it up for housing dimensions until the wheelhouses are cut. Progress.

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Really like those wheels LW! Gonna make that lemon wedge stand out. Good work Buddy!
 
The Cartool kit has arrived, and it’s about to get real for Lemonwedge! This will be by far the largest fabrication project I’ve ever tackled. I’ll be honest; I’m nervous, but not scared. A buddy of mine loaned me his plasma cutter. That should make things a little easier.

I’ve already run into one issue: the lower portion of the back seat won’t come out past the roll bar. This is going to make it hard to get the rear interior panels out. I’m sure I’ll either get them out or find a way to work around them.

I’ve got a ton to do before April. But I can’t wait to see the finished changes!

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I’ve already run into one issue: the lower portion of the back seat won’t come out past the roll bar. This is going to make it hard to get the rear interior panels out. I’m sure I’ll either get them out or find a way to work around them.

I’ve got a ton to do before April. But I can’t wait to see the finished changes!

View attachment 1029928 View attachment 1029929

Mine was the same . Mine is left out now , but does give a bit more space for carrying stuff as the 29.5s take up a lot more room than the 28s in the boot

Tex
 
Figured out the seat thing. Was able to jostle it around and get it under the backbrace bar. Also got the interior panels out. Played around with the plasma cutter, getting the hang of that. I’ll do the bulk of the cutting with it, but I think the cutting wheel will also find its way into the mix at a few spots. I Placed and marked the templates on the floor. Plan is to start cutting next weekend.
 
Figured out the seat thing. Was able to jostle it around and get it under the backbrace bar. Also got the interior panels out. Played around with the plasma cutter, getting the hang of that. I’ll do the bulk of the cutting with it, but I think the cutting wheel will also find its way into the mix at a few spots. I Placed and marked the templates on the floor. Plan is to start cutting next weekend.
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You may have to modify the lower seat frame where it contours around the tub. I had to on both the a and b body cars. You can do it without removing the upholstery other than perhaps a hog ring or 2.
 
Lemon, your inbox is full. I have a couple of suggestions which I'd offer.
 
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