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Gas tank repair

Timmayy

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Ok, so I'm cleaning the gas tank from my wifes 65 wagon. Well there are two pinholes at the top of the tank. A little rust maybe just from water sitting over the years. The rest of it is good. What do you use for tank repair? Afterwards I'm going to brush on some POR-15.
 
If you have an old style soldering iron best fix. Old style is the type you heat up away from tank. Put solder on it, flux on tank and touch iron to flux.
Did a weeping hole 3 years ago with epoxy no problem yet.
 
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@Timmayy I sealed the interior of my tank with a kit from Eastwood. The kit includes an acid cleaner, a neutralizer and a fuel proof sealer for the inside. Outside was POR-15 and a stainless steel colored spray while the POR was still tacky.

x2 on the solder and flux. Tin around the holes and then over them to bridge the gaps.
 
So the solder and flux is the best way to avoid sparks? What's better, solder or epoxy? The inside of the tank is fine. Car was running last year. Should I still seal the inside?
 
I just checked Eastwood. Looks like the kit comes with everything. Easy instructions too. That may be the answer. Thanks so much.
 
For the price of a new Canadian made Spectra Premium tank and the time and money saved by not having to mess with the Eastwood kit, I would think it would be a no brainer to just buy a new one?
 
For the price of a new Canadian made Spectra Premium tank and the time and money saved by not having to mess with the Eastwood kit, I would think it would be a no brainer to just buy a new one?
It's a station wagon. I can't find one.
 
If inside isn't rusty I'd leave it alone. If the tank hasn't has gas in it awhile maybe ok to solder with flame but risky. When was 21 and daring=dumb soldered a tank with propane torch had it flash. Just made a big woosh buldged the tank some. Flame solder gas tank they have Bboiled. been told make the place to solder the high point and have tank full of water so fumes are at a minimum.
Now after all that if rust holes are at the highest point and gas only splashes them epoxy.
 
Old GF's dad would braze tanks for us... just told us to make sure we had it FULL to the brim before he started... LOL.. and we all stood outside the shop!
 
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Soldering IS the best fix and with an Iron, not an open flame! Heat the iron far away from the tank
and if you can, sandblast the repair area only after filling the tank with soapy water. Believe me,
you don't want to explode a gas tank while you're working on it! You can solder it empty, but the soapy
water will be insurance if the sandblasting causes a spark. Solder won't rust in the future either.
Make sure you "Tin" the area with acid/flux compound before soldering. Good luck!
 
i knew a guy he would empty out the tank and lower the garage door on it , in case it wants to take off as he flash the torch a few times over it and then braze it . hahaha
 
If inside isn't rusty I'd leave it alone. If the tank hasn't has gas in it awhile maybe ok to solder with flame but risky. When was 21 and daring=dumb soldered a tank with propane torch had it flash. Just made a big woosh buldged the tank some. Flame solder gas tank they have Bboiled. been told make the place to solder the high point and have tank full of water so fumes are at a minimum.
Now after all that if rust holes are at the highest point and gas only splashes them epoxy.
Yeah, pinholes are at the top of the tank. The Eastwood kit has directions to take care of that too. Make sure it's clean, brush on a coat of the POR-15, place small cloth patch over it, let dry and brush on another coat over that. I may just do that.
 
I had a quarter size rust hole at the bottom of my wagon tank.
Pulling it meant pulling the axle, couldn't buy new or fill it with water, as far as quick fixes and patches nothing worked.

Recently bought a tanksinc efi tank for something else, came with a block off plate for the sending unit.

Hmmm. Back to summit, bought the threaded retaining ring, a new rubber gasket (forget the material but made for gas), and the screws with o-rings.
All tanksinc stuff.

Retaining ring is a C shape to slip inside, widened and rounded existing hole, drilled holes for screws, actually ran a hose on the bottom while drilling because I'm paranoid.

I had to bend the block off plate a bit on one side to match contours of tank.

Hasn't leaked a drop in years, not a weep or anything.
 
I tried a few different JB products, none held more than a day, however the hole was at the bottom, a worst case scenario.
 
I tried a few different JB products, none held more than a day, however the hole was at the bottom, a worst case scenario.
Yeah, mine are a couple of pinholes at the top where it rubbed the body.
 
Ok, so I'm trying the POR-15 tank sealer. I already wire wheeled the tank. I used the Metal Prep. Dipped a rag in it and kept rubbing it on every few minutes for about 20 minutes, then washed it off and let the tank dry.
upload_2020-11-15_17-28-16.png

The tank with the holes marked. the sharpie find of worn off.
upload_2020-11-15_17-32-22.png

This is the POR-15 tank sealer.
upload_2020-11-15_17-30-42.png

It says to brush it on over the pinholes.
upload_2020-11-15_17-33-7.png

Then cut out a cloth patch and put it over the hole. Two patches for two holes.
upload_2020-11-15_17-34-13.png

Then brush the sealer over the patches and let dry. We'll see how it works.
 
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