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Paint/assembly procedures?

493 Mike

493 Mike

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Hi fellas,
If I have my car painted in a dissembled state what can I do with all the bolt heads that will inevitably chip with wrench tightening? Any tips?
As I am two-toning the color should I paint the areas of the door jams visible through the door gaps?
The paint shop is 30 miles from my shop and I will be doing reassembly. Perhaps I could work a deal with the painter to let me hang the doors and fenders after he edges everything in. Any thoughts?
Mike
 
493 Mike said:
Hi fellas,
If I have my car painted in a dissembled state what can I do with all the bolt heads that will inevitably chip with wrench tightening? Any tips?
As I am two-toning the color should I paint the areas of the door jams visible through the door gaps?
The paint shop is 30 miles from my shop and I will be doing reassembly. Perhaps I could work a deal with the painter to let me hang the doors and fenders after he edges everything in. Any thoughts?
Mike
Click to expand...

when done touch them up with a brush. If it is clear/base coat you can mix about 10% base into the clear and use that.
 
I'm trying something different on a truck I'm restoring that appears to be working well. I went to the local paint supply shop and had them match the paint code in a rattle can. I'm cleaning the hardware in my blast cabinet, priming them then painting all with a rattle can. Idea behind it is the thickness is what causes the paint to chip and bust off, with a rattle can the paint is much thinner and doesn't seem to fail when tightening. The paint matches very well and since none of them are exposed to UV's or weather I suspect it will hold up fine?
 
I have cut multiple small squares of and old t shirt and stick in socket. You can tighten 3-4 bolts before cloth begins to tear. Get another small square piece and so on.
I was wondering the other day as I have to do the same to my car, how did the factory do it?? Like the painted bolts that hold the trunk latch assembly, horn mounting bolts, etc.
 
747mopar said:
I'm trying something different on a truck I'm restoring that appears to be working well. I went to the local paint supply shop and had them match the paint code in a rattle can. I'm cleaning the hardware in my blast cabinet, priming them then painting all with a rattle can. Idea behind it is the thickness is what causes the paint to chip and bust off, with a rattle can the paint is much thinner and doesn't seem to fail when tightening. The paint matches very well and since none of them are exposed to UV's or weather I suspect it will hold up fine?
Click to expand...
This seems to be good logic. Thanks! If I combine this procedure with the plastic lined socket for insurance, I'm golden.
Mike
 
Last edited:
tnfastback said:
I was wondering the other day as I have to do the same to my car, how did the factory do it?? Like the painted bolts that hold the trunk latch assembly, horn mounting bolts, etc.
Click to expand...

Factory didn’t care about chipping the paint on the trunk latch bolts. Look at an original car, it’s all chipped up.
The horn bolts are not painted at all.

Factory had all the body panels installed before paint. Engine went in from underneath so hood and hinge bolts were not touched.
 
Make sure the paint is well cured on the bolt heads, use the advice given above, and be prepared to touch up a few of them afterwards, either with a brush or I've used a straw over the nozzle of a spray can for hard to reach bolt heads.
 
They make Nylon inserts for sockets to protect the painted bolt heads. I'm gonna
go look for some now. . . . I'll be back!
 
Snap-On has the Metric inserts listed but not regular sizes. I left customer service
an E-mail. Let's see?
 
zyzzyx said:
They make Nylon inserts for sockets to protect the painted bolt heads. I'm gonna
go look for some now. . . . I'll be back!
Click to expand...
I bought a set years ago and broke one (1/2" or 9/16") so the set is almost worthless. Chinese junk.
Mike
 
Got an E-mail back from Snap-Off, They only have metric inserts!!
 
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