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Rev-N-Nator Not Available?

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That tan box is for the electronic vacuum retard. PIA system.
 
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Usually the HP cars. stupid system it also goes to a solenoid on the carb and when you shut off the car it retards 5 degrees and the solenoid drops. Think about it I get the solenoid but retard the vac with the key off???????
 
Best thing to do with it IMO is find a way to remove/disable it.
 
Best thing to do with it IMO is find a way to remove/disable it.
if the vacuum side is good it will work like a regular vac advance. I have seen them also on 2bbl 383's. Only way to tell if it came on the car is look up the car in the FSM. I have the sun cards that I look up the distrib number on to tell. You can take it off and put a regular style vac advance on it. Just have to match what it is in vac advance degrees.
 
Usually the HP cars. stupid system it also goes to a solenoid on the carb and when you shut off the car it retards 5 degrees and the solenoid drops. Think about it I get the solenoid but retard the vac with the key off???????
A more accurate description of the functions of those solenoids. Other than the insulated contact mounted on the idle speed solenoid plunger for the retard solenoid, the two systems have nothing to do with each other.


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I agree but some years they are tied on the same circuit. I will find a reference not going to beat this to hell like on FEBO did
 
Both are powered from the Ignition 1 circuit in the engine harness but their functions are not related to each other.
Some retard solenoid applications did not involve a curb idle solenoid, had a simple insulated curb idle screw and contact. Timing was only retarded with ignition on and at hot curb idle.
 
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Just be forewarned that Don is VERY opinionated and he will tell you how it is. Everything he sells is gold and everything else is overseas junk.

This guy....I have a couple of opinions on him too.
Years ago when I was struggling with the detonation in my car, I emailed him to see what he thought about how spark timing curves could help my situation. He asked the exact specs of the car, the build, the gasoline available and my intended usage. He wrote back with sharp criticism about my cam choice and other issues. He never tried to sell me on his products but he wasn't the type to be polite with his opinions.
 
@Kern Dog
That's Don...
I've met people like him.
If you can contend with "that" and have some communication skills, and patience, and turn the conversation to where you can get the information you want, and a good performing product, it's worth the laborious process.
 
This guy....I have a couple of opinions on him too.
Years ago when I was struggling with the detonation in my car, I emailed him to see what he thought about how spark timing curves could help my situation. He asked the exact specs of the car, the build, the gasoline available and my intended usage. He wrote back with sharp criticism about my cam choice and other issues. He never tried to sell me on his products but he wasn't the type to be polite with his opinions.
I'm shocked that he didn't push you to buy something from him. He is quite good at that.
 
Agree!
Don is great for tech support and his products work!

I have his on mine. Nothing wrong with Troy or Laura neither at Rev. Don says to take the ballast out of the equation on mine? Haven't done it yet but it has 0 miles. Need to find a connector for the wires.

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Don says to take the ballast out of the equation on mine? Haven't done it yet but it has 0 miles. Need to find a connector for the wires.
Usually the kit comes w/a jumper wire.
Use any method shown in this thread to jump the ballast resistor, or take it out of the equation altogether.
Jumping it is just like removing it and connecting the 2 wires (1 on each end) together.
 
Usually the kit comes w/a jumper wire.
Use any method shown in this thread to jump the ballast resistor, or take it out of the equation altogether.
Jumping it is just like removing it and connecting the 2 wires (1 on each end) together.
Thanks Biomed. Will have to do it when I get home.
 
Thanks Biomed. Will have to do it when I get home.
Since this thread started, I have learned about an ignition system that is exactly what I've dreamed of having available.
It's like they pulled it out of my brain!
As long as I keep my 3x2bbl carbs, and the only thing I would consider replacing them with, especially since I have around $1K parts and labor of Promax upgrades done to them, would be the F&B DPI/EFI setup, or if Holley ever produces the 3x2 Sniper EFI they have had a patent on for a couple of years, IF the Sniper has the capacity to meet the HP/TQ requirements of the 541 stroker I have planned. I'd have the 3x2 FiTech already, and it would be great w/my current set-up, but 600HP is the hard limit on the FiTech, and that's going to be short of the 541 build.
Tangent over...
The appeal of the Progression ignition system is COMPLETE custom tuning, and that with carburetors is otherwise impossible to find.
I LIKE it!
https://progressionignition.com/
 
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