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Taking a shot at Organisol Black (AKA an Organisol Adventure)

Rich H.

Rich H.

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I am in the middle of a much larger project on the GTX and thought I'd post....
Maybe this will help somebody out.
On the other hand, maybe someone will print this and throw darts at it.
In any case maybe it will be entertaining if not useful........

This is down and dirty, "in the garage wearing protective gear" kind of painting.

I wanted to get as close to the OE 69 1/2 A12 hood paint as I could, without turning it into a lifelong pursuit, and without paying a shop $1000+, without going to the resto guru for $800 worth of paint, or anything like that.
I do realize they varied from car to car somewhat, but there was a certain texture I'd seen on show vehicles + untouched original cars that I was after.

My hood is pretty typical unknown brand aftermarket race weight fiberglass from the '70s or '80s.

My undercoat is all SPI product, epoxy and 2k primer. At the moment my filler is USG AG47 grip, my glaze is 3m Platinum plus.

SEM hot rod black, PN HR010 has good reviews on Amazon + a good shot of an an a12 style hood in their review area and that convinced me to try it.
(I got my best price somewhere other than Amazon. Shop carefully.)
It got me about as close as I will likely ever get.

This is 2k primer sanded to P320.
(You can go finer if you want, but the following steps more than hide any sanding scratches 2x over., so no need. The SEM itself will hide a 320 scratch on it's own + I added a sealer coat for insurance)

org1.jpg
 
Sealed with one wet coat of black epoxy primer, reduced around 15%.

org2.jpg
 
Last edited:
"Epoxy as sealer" sat for 2 hours. (Per SPI, 2 to 18 hour range is acceptable)

Shot two wet coats of SEM hot rod black over that, per the instructions.

It goes on just as glossy as a regular single stage topcoat. It takes time for the flattening agents and such to kick in.

org3.jpg
 
Last edited:
After overnight cure.

Side comment:
This is very close to the appearance of my untouched original '68 Charger tail panel (which is the only original example of Organisol that I've owned). The Charger was very slightly flatter than this and did not have any texture.

I stopped here for a day while deciding what to do.
This seemed pretty good and I could have stopped right there.
If a person just wanted the low gloss look without the texture, this would be just fine!

But this wasn't quite "the look". Although it did match my Charger tail panel quite well, I think we all know
A12 hoods were textured. And this is a far cry from an original A12, but I wanted to pursue "the look".

Decided to experiment a little (on other disposable surfaces) to see if I could get the desired texture.

org4.jpg
 
Last edited:
I mixed up a small quantity of SEM, and cheated the instructions slightly:
I added a small amount of SPI urethane reducer.

Previously I had run the spray gun wide open (both fan and fluid wide open).

First practicing on a disposable/different surface, I played with the adjustment and technique until I arrived at what I was shooting for (no pun intended).

On my particular spray gun, that ended up being fan wide open and fluid tip turned in considerably in order to reduce fluid volume,
and I also held the gun maybe twice the normal distance away from the panel (I would estimate about 12" to 14" away instead of the normal 5 to 6 inches).
Air pressure ended up in the mid to high 20s. (Your rig will work differently, but the general idea was to reduce fluid volume until it came out very slowly in discernably separate "dots"
rather than an atomized liquid). I used 1.4mm tip (but only because that's what was already in there from the previous shoot....but I believe a larger fluid tip would work against you in this application).

I'll admit I tried several adjustment ideas that did not work, and had to revert to where I started, but finding the setup only took maybe 20 minutes of playing around with it.

(In hindsight, I am not 100% sure the additional reducer was necessary, but for what I was attempting I justified it due to my desire for increased solvency to allow the "dots" to bite into the cured surface. I knew for sure I did not want to try to texture a wet surface and have the "dots" "melt in" excessively and kill the texture......I wanted the texture proud of the color, if that makes sense)

No specific overlap was used, I just eyeballed it. I started with no overlap at all, then reversed direction, and then "dusted" it until the texture evened out across the panel.


....and here's what I got.

org5.jpg
 
Last edited:
Closeup of the texture......I love this.

This is exactly the look I was chasing, that I have seen on so many cars for alot of years.

I achieved a sloppier version of this many years in the past unintentionally/by mistake, and forgot how that happened....had to do trial and error to figure out how to purposely reproduce this. Voila.

Did I mention I love this? I can't stop looking at it.

org6.jpg
 
In summary....to critique my own work, I would say the texture is definitely on the heavier side, which is exactly the look I wanted.

If you want less texture, its achievable by holding the gun further away and dropping less material.

All for now.
 
@Rich H. I used Organisol that I got from Year 1. It sprayed out like cotton candy, in long fibers. I layered it on thick hoping that it would melt and blend the fibers - it didn’t. When it fully dried, I took a scotch bite pad and scuffed off all of the long string fibers until I got the texture I wanted - but it was gray in color. I took a rag and dipped it in reducer, rubbing down the whole surface and viola! The black color came back and it still looks good 20 years later!
image.jpg
 
Very nice. Thanks for the reply.

The texture is definitely the tricky part, I did my best to fake it :)
 
Are you planning on any top coat for protection or is the SEM fine by itself?
 
Builderguy said:
Are you planning on any top coat for protection or is the SEM fine by itself?
Click to expand...

The SEM is a modern catalyzed urethane product and is intended to be used as a topcoat.
It should live a longer life than the Lacquer formula Chrysler used on original parts.

(I'm sure SEM didn't intend for the texture that I added to exist, so the life of the texture remains to be seen).
 
Broken Mopar said:
Rustoleum textured black. Works great for black textured dashes too.
Click to expand...

I've read about this and the pics of parts done it in look really nice.

For me, because of bad past experiences, on my own projects I only want 2k, modern epoxy and urethane products on exterior class A surfaces.
 
1 Wild R/T said:
https://forum.e-bodies.org/body-shop/5/codys-organisol-paint-formula/10198/
Click to expand...

Yes! His deal looks great and is worth looking into for research purposes as I did.

His plan is far more complex than most others out there, and isn't for everyone, but for those who
decide to go that route it creates the most possible control over the outcome
(because it also has the largest number of variables that can be adjusted).

I decided it was a little too involved for me and went with the SEM.
 
Rich H. said:
I mixed up a small quantity of SEM, and cheated the instructions slightly:
I added a small amount of SPI urethane reducer.

Previously I had run the spray gun wide open (both fan and fluid wide open).

First practicing on a disposable/different surface, I played with the adjustment and technique until I arrived at what I was shooting for (no pun intended).

On my particular spray gun, that ended up being fan wide open and fluid tip turned in considerably in order to reduce fluid volume,
and I also held the gun maybe twice the normal distance away from the panel (I would estimate about 12" to 14" away instead of the normal 5 to 6 inches).
Air pressure ended up in the mid to high 20s. (Your rig will work differently, but the general idea was to reduce fluid volume until it came out very slowly in discernably separate "dots"
rather than an atomized liquid). I used 1.4mm tip (but only because that's what was already in there from the previous shoot....but I believe a larger fluid tip would work against you in this application).

I'll admit I tried several adjustment ideas that did not work, and had to revert to where I started, but finding the setup only took maybe 20 minutes of playing around with it.

(In hindsight, I am not 100% sure the additional reducer was necessary, but for what I was attempting I justified it due to my desire for increased solvency to allow the "dots" to bite into the cured surface. I knew for sure I did not want to try to texture a wet surface and have the "dots" "melt in" excessively and kill the texture......I wanted the texture proud of the color, if that makes sense)

No specific overlap was used, I just eyeballed it. I started with no overlap at all, then reversed direction, and then "dusted" it until the texture evened out across the panel.


....and here's what I got.

View attachment 1029272
Click to expand...
LOOKS FANTASTIC!! I just listed my A12 roadrunner for sale. Has the ORIGINAL paint on hood (I got lucky!)
You did a great job!!
 
Rich H. said:
Closeup of the texture......I love this.

This is exactly the look I was chasing, that I have seen on so many cars for alot of years.

I achieved a sloppier version of this many years in the past unintentionally/by mistake, and forgot how that happened....had to do trial and error to figure out how to purposely reproduce this. Voila.

Did I mention I love this? I can't stop looking at it.

View attachment 1029277
Click to expand...
Wow!! Perfect
 
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