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Lessons in patience to me

Wow! It takes you guys two years and thousands of dollars just to get a building permit for a garage?? WTF!!
That's how it goes when you live in a state that is run by woke leftist liberal losers. Here in Virginia, it took 20 min and $30.00
 
Love those old warbirds!

F4U Corsairs were manufactured by Vought, in 16 separate models, and has the longest production run of any piston-engined fighter in U.S. history (1942–53).

Had a rocky start but ended up being one of the greatest!!!!!
 
You can always tell the difference between a T6 and something like the Corsair or Skyraider when airborne. Those extra cylinders sure make a difference in the sound. Like comparing a ricer to a real car! Mopar Dan you are correct. The process of the permits is expensive especially when they are looking for artifacts and other poo. Unfortunately you have to take the hit on it other wise you don't get to build. The soil testing I understand because they want to figure out the compaction rate for the pad. Very critical in earthquake prone areas like us. If we were any closer to the water then we would get hit up by the Coastal Commission looking to see just how bad you want to be here. They don't hold a gun to your head but do it in other ways. I'll be glad when we get wrapped up and I can organize the shop then get cracking on the car. I'll be able to slip the car in the stall in a couple of weeks or less after the floor gets epoxied. Will get it picked up on a slipbed tow and moved 50' over to the stall. Right now I can't do it any other way as its soft sand in front of the garage plus a 8" step up. I have to move it so the next contractor can put pavers down. Once those are in I can gut the old garage of occupants, some of it goes to the new one anyway. Since we got retro fitted with sprinklers, old garage and house plus new garage, the old garage at the minimum needs the lid drywalled to cover and protect the sprinkler plumbing. After that its final inspection time.
 
I rented the lift again yesterday. We got all of the pictures/signs/models etc on the west wall now. My wife came up with the bitchin idea to make paper templates of the picture/sign layouts ahead of time. Those got put up and from there I punched holes. If she hadn't been involved in this it would have been just helter skelter on the layout from me. There are times for Fung Shui! When I did the pictures, I leveled them up then marked with some tape on the bottom. Pulled the picture back off, put some L brackets under that are 1/2" up from the mark. This takes some of the tension off the hanging wire on the back side. When in place, I put one bracket hanging over the top to catch it in case of wire breaking or quake. When I lifted off the Spitfire picture for the lower brackets, the wire broke. Luckily I didn't drop it. Pulled the wire out and replaced it with nylon string line like what's used for construction layout. Since its the biggest one and has the nylon, I put two brackets on the top to secure it. That turkey is like 16' up the wall and want it to stay there. I figured it would take me maybe 3-4 hours to get it all done. Hah! 9 hours later it was. The fan was a pistol to get secured onto its mount but all good now. On the 7th the floor guy is coming to prep for the epoxy. After that I need to move the 65 over to the stall so its out of the way for the paver contractor. Getting close!

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Carl,
Just read the whole thread, tons of work but, she's looking good! How did the polished concrete floor turn into epoxy? Great talking with you today.
Mike
 
The contractor thats doing the floor told me the straight epoxy would be my best best for durability and fixes. Less hassle without the grind too. He does the Euro car dealerships in the area. Said they typically get 7 years before its redo time. As for the clear, the stuff he uses is water base. Takes more cure time and not as tough. Probably due to California compliance. The epoxy is high solids solvent base. He'll acid wash it prior to coating. Its clean, no oil as no vehicles have been in it other than that truck. It didn't mark its spot. What was that garage forum you mentioned?
 
The contractor thats doing the floor told me the straight epoxy would be my best best for durability and fixes. Less hassle without the grind too. He does the Euro car dealerships in the area. Said they typically get 7 years before its redo time. As for the clear, the stuff he uses is water base. Takes more cure time and not as tough. Probably due to California compliance. The epoxy is high solids solvent base. He'll acid wash it prior to coating. Its clean, no oil as no vehicles have been in it other than that truck. It didn't mark its spot. What was that garage forum you mentioned?
The Garage Journal
Check out MP&C thread in "fabrication". The guy is a genius when it comes to welding sheet metal and fabbing "unobtainum" panels.
Mike
 
Will do. I see you are also an ex dealership employee. I was a parts guy.
 
My first dealer was in 86. Didn't get to the mothership until 94. From then to 04 it was Mopar with one dealer being Buick/GMC also, others were varying siblings between the full line. The only domestic I didn't do was Ford. Otherwise all U.S. and 75% or so of Japanese/Euro imports. The weirdest of the bunch was the Peaugeot and Alfa Romeo people. They were quite full of themselves. Other Euro were interesting also. My most fun time was working at a mom and pop speed shop 81-86. Gearhead heaven.
 
The epoxy started going down today. 2nd coat tomorrow. Have to let it sit for a few days. Sometime after Monday I will get the 65 moved to its new home and start clearing out the other garage of the easily moved items to the new one. Some of it will stay there but need to move all from one to the other to make way for drywalling. I partially disassembled the swing chair to move it and now have it on the topside deck. The paver contractor comes by tomorrow to walk the job and give me a timeframe for starting the project. When the pavers get put down, I can then move the heavy stuff over from the old to new. Toolbox, compressor, bolt bin, safes etc. Kind of hard to get that stuff through the soft sand.

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Second coat of epoxy went down on Friday. Sunday I put the Sika self leveling urethane into the relief cuts I made from last year. Its been off gassing with the doors open part way so its fine now. Got the car uncovered, been 2 years, then gave it a bath so its ready for its new home. Just waiting to hear from the tow guy about when he can come over with the slip bed to move it.

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The car is home finally. The tow guys also moved my bolt bin cart and the toolbox. Still have to get the compressor and safe in there but those will happen after the pavers get put in. Since both are not mobile and the compressor is top heavy, those I'll do with my appliance dolly and extra help to keep it from flopping over.

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It's about time for you to get some grease under your fingernails!
Mike
 
For sure but I'll have to wait until the final gets done. Before I get back on it I'll need to get stuff put away, organized etc. Coming soon to a garage near you...
 
Just read your whole story on your garage construction. I worked on a project once where part of the site was acquired via a federal grant. I believe the grant was a hundred thousand dollars. We had to do an archeological survey of the site as part of the grant when we went to construction. We hired an archeologist to do the survey. He was determined to find something. We had to dig up a portion of the site with an excavator. In the end we spent the amount of the grant on the survey.
 
Don't you just love justifying peoples employment? Would have been nice to not pay since nothing was found but fat chance of that. Those agencies always seem to hire someone with an axe to grind but I guess thats what keeps them going. Its nice when the tables turn on them though.
 
Just realized I had a brain fart by forgetting about posting updates. Last week the sand[ this area is a big sand dune] work, block work and paver job got started. Block walls in the back are close to getting done. They removed a large amount of sand from the front area to prep for pavers. Due to the square footage of the pavers plus county requirements for controlling storm run off, the pavers had to be done in the permeable type. This required digging down 24"+ and backfilling with a huge amount of rock. Big stuff down first, 1 1/2" at 8" or so of depth then about the same of 3/4". There is a concrete curb that wraps around the outer perimeter. This type of paver allows the rain to just go between the joints and through the paver too. The joints get filled with pea gravel instead of sand. Next week the concrete curb gets poured and the pavers get started plus get the walls wrapped up.

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Wow! That would be enough to stop most of us ordinary mortals!
Mike
 
You gotta love building storm detention on top of sand. We built a detention pond on top of sand once. It never held water due to the permeability of the sand. Had to build to satisfy the local sewer district.
 
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