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Hydro-boost questions (looking for data)

70chall440

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Let me start by saying if you don't like these systems and don't understand why anyone would do it, then please don't post; this thread is about how/what to use not whether you should not not.

I am going to post this on FABO as well.

I have been researching this issue for some time and I have seen a lot of information, kits, videos, etc. However, what I have not found is a lot of details. People say they have installed them, have one, etc. but not a lot of detail about what they installed or are using. I am not real interested in the various kits, what I am interested in is systems which were put together; meaning sourcing a HB unit from some other application.

I have looked at the Astro Van and Dodge diesel PU system and I would prefer to use the Dodge variant bc I would like to use a Mopar MC.

What I am wanting to know specifically is what people have used and how they have made it work. I am wondering if the Dodge unit can be disassembled (meaning the firewall plate can be removed) and if the rod (the one that goes from the HB to the pedal) can be removed and modified.

I appreciate any information anyone can share, pictures would be awesome.
 
I dont know the answer. You should have any easy time finding a system to try and adapt tho.... I'm sure you know many different types of vehicles used the system for many, many years. I think the oldest I had was a '74 (and other) Chevy G30 cutaway van, and the newest (i had) was an early 90's Lincoln. Mark7 Lincolns used them too.... HTH
 
I did a custom HB install on my 84 W350 cummins crewcab, pieced together from various junkyard vehicles, Astro Van, 2nd gen cummins truck etc, and modified to get me what I wanted. Here is a link...take a read, I go into a lot of specific details on various systems as well as some of the mistakes I made along the way.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com...ll-topics-93/t-cows-hydroboost-thread-323472/

So I read your thread, good pictures and write up. In the beginning you talk about the mistake of pull that rod out, I don't really understand that part. I like the detail about the chain wrench, I was wondering how you would tighten that nut on a GM unit.

So it appears that the GM unit provides more mounting options whereas the Dodge one you are kind of stuck with that mounting plate, is the right?
 
That rod is the push rod from your pedal to the HB unit, it has a ball end and is staked into place. If you try and pull it out without a tool the hold the body secure and then just pop the push rod ball end out you will render the whole piston assembly useless.

You can see in this pic the piston with it's shaft and ball end, then a large spring goes over that, pedal push rod with ball end as well and then the broken collar just below...broke off the piston side since it is a smaller ball end then the push rod.

50202d1501204858-t-cows-hydroboost-thread-pict0013%25202_zps1zufgawm.jpg
 
So it appears that the GM unit provides more mounting options whereas the Dodge one you are kind of stuck with that mounting plate, is the right?

50181d1501204809-t-cows-hydroboost-thread-pict0020_zpsccgcmanc.jpg


In this pic you can see the mounting plate that the dodge unit uses, it just bolts to the front of the standard HB unit and rotates it 45* degrees for clearance issues on the blue accumulator on the 2nd Gen OEM install. You can just remove that plate and run the standard HB unit but the push rod from the HB unit to the master cylinder will now be to long, and the units I had apart none of the push rods were adjustable.

So that is why I had to adjust the alignment keyway location on the firewall bracket....because like yourself I wanted to have a Mopar MC as well...;)
 
That rod is the push rod from your pedal to the HB unit, it has a ball end and is staked into place. If you try and pull it out without a tool the hold the body secure and then just pop the push rod ball end out you will render the whole piston assembly useless.

You can see in this pic the piston with it's shaft and ball end, then a large spring goes over that, pedal push rod with ball end as well and then the broken collar just below...broke off the piston side since it is a smaller ball end then the push rod.

View attachment 1034548

Thanks for the information, so if I understand you correctly, you must have a tool to remove that push rod (like the one you posting a picture of on the other site)? How do you get the rod back in. just through force of pushing it in?

Don't mean to be difficult but want to understand this.
 
I just back and reread your tutorial on the other site and I am now understanding what you are saying, makes sense. So I am thinking it will be a Dodge unit and MC.

I read some place where someone side not to Tee the return line into the PS return line, rather have it go directly into the reservoir?
 
I agree on not to use a T in the return line, better to run seperate returns into the reservoir to eliminate any form of back pressure from the other item in the return path
 
2 Penny's worth
I have started down this path as well, googled diy hb on mopar and the astro van seemed like the best candidate. So while I was at the pull a part in Tulsa I found a 96 van that had the flat firewall mounting so I took it home.
IMG_20201201_182507.jpg
IMG_20201201_182548.jpg
IMG_20201201_182533.jpg
 
More pics of the mounting studs. 3.375X3.5 bolt pattern. And if I look at the plate it cold be rotated
IMG_20201201_183018.jpg
IMG_20201201_183034.jpg
 
And the master cylinder has a raised pilot around the bore
IMG_20201201_182943.jpg
IMG_20201201_182950.jpg


And this is about as far as I've gotten.
 
Thanks for those pictures and the information. I have been doing some research as well and have determined that a unit from an Astro Van is probably the best unit from a vehicle weight aspect. Crash520 mentioned to me that he thought the HB units were built with the vehicle weight as a concern, thus one from a Ram 3500 would probably be too much (brakes would be "touchy").

6872n73 - to confirm, based on what you posted it would seem that a Mopar MC isn't going to go right on as it seems to be .25" too narrow in the bolt holes; is this what you are showing?
 
That is correct, it will need an adaptor like most/all of the aftermarket ones have.

Another observation is that aftermarket also rotates the HB so the accumulator is away from valve cover, this also moves the pressure lines. This might be good or not depending on the application.

In my 72 RR with a 440 I'm liking the accumulator to the top position. As for the lines coming out the bottom of the unit, plan to route to the firewall and then back to the pump/gear for max clearance for spark plugs access. Then a 90 degree adaptor plate for the master cylinder.
 
Again, I appreciate the information. I would prefer that the accumulator be outboard as they are on the aftermarket ones which makes me wonder what those were originally put on it because we know they were not make specifically for the hotrod world, they were designed for some other application first.
 
I am beginning to think that the system used by at least Power Brake Service (Speed Manufacturing) is a Mustang system. It puts the accumulator on the inboard side low if you want the lines up, if you rotate it then the accumulator would be outboard but the lines would be down which would make it look cleaner.

I'd really like to hear from others who have adapted a HB system for their car.
 
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