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318 Engine scratch/pitting

Dave Unrau

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7:34 AM
Joined
Oct 12, 2017
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Location
Stonewall, Manitoba
Just looking for some advice on whether or not to rebuilt this engine block because of this defect. I am not building a race motor, I am building a motor slightly over stock as a trial for myself to see if I can. This
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defect is not very deep. I also am trying to avoid machine shop work and build a budget motor reusing as much as I can, hopefully these pics work
 
Head gasket needs to seal so if that defect creates a tunnel under the compressed steel rim then you may have a problem. What you might consider (being on a budget) is first cleaning that out with a wire brush and/or chem process to really see how far it goes. If it's severely pitted try filing off some iron from a spot on the outside of the block and mix with JB weld and "bondo" it up. What's the worst that can happen? The gasket leaks and you pull the engine. Yes, lots of work so you decide. Or the patch works. FYI: I ran a Toyota 22RE for 30K miles with the aluminum head eroded into a water passage using Bars Leaks so you might be surprised what you can get away with. I knew this because eventually I pulled the head and saw the damage that required welding to fix.
 
If it gets into ring travel and so deep that it needs to be cut out. 318 blocks are cheap.
 
get new gaskets and see what it covers . if it came apart that way with no problems then it should be ok.
 
Hard to tell how deep that blowout is by your pics. If its only .030 - .050 deep you may get by with just decking the block but if it strikes the water jacket your looking at a welding job. It probably can be fixed if your willing to spend the bucks on a patch job. Someone who knows how to weld cast iron could get it done reliably, then the machine work to reestablish the bore and deck surfaces. $$$. If it was my problem I'd dig around in the junkyards for another block...probably cost a couple hundred bucks out the door but then the repair job will cost you that much so....
I agree with mopar 3 B, 318 blocks are cheap.
 
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It appears to be porosity in the casting.

As long as the gasket encompasses it completely...I wouldn't do a thing.

Welding will likely open a can of worms if you get too close to the bore. I would have expected to see a witness of exhaust escaping in that area, if this was a "real issue"...unless you cleaned it off.
 
Casting porosity. I just did a slant six that had that in a cylinder and ended up sleeving the hole. The more I bored (for the sleeve), the worse it got. As long as the pocket is inside of the fire ring, there is not an issue. Hell, it has worked for at least 30 years so far. If you just don't feel comfortable with it, install a sleeve, and pin the deck to fill in the void, then bore the motor to the next size, square the block, and don't look back...
 
If you were not so far away I would almost give you a block. That is how valuable they are here. Personally I would not take the chance with that block. But 318's are still plentiful here.
 
Thanks for the info, it may be hard to tell from the pic but the defect is not very deep (.010) ish so I'm thinking some Ultra copper in that spot might work when I'm putting on the head gasket. Again, this is a low budget, first time building an engine to learn so I can build another learning as I go. I have a 1987 roller cam and this a 1973 block.
 
Thanks for the info, it may be hard to tell from the pic but the defect is not very deep (.010) ish so I'm thinking some Ultra copper in that spot might work when I'm putting on the head gasket. Again, this is a low budget, first time building an engine to learn so I can build another learning as I go. I have a 1987 roller cam and this a 1973 block.
Please don't use ultra copper on the gasket or deck. If the void is inside of the head gasket fire ring, you will be fine...
 
My current race motor has pits in the deck surface filled with JB weld. 15-1 compression. No issues.
Doug
 
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