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64 polara to 440. Headers?

the change moved the engine back,now later headers and oil pans fit,easier to find and cheaper.Front brake pads can be found at napa stores,Mark
 
I have a 64 Polara 426 and i went for the Hedman 78030 headers.
I have My heads off so the passenger Side install was a piece of cake, but the driver side is worse. I have removed the starter and i think that if i raise the engine a bit now i Will get it down there.

But i read in this thread the original starter wont work, My car is a 4 speed manual, is the starter the same for automaic cars? Can i also get a Dakota starter? Or maybe a ministarter?
 
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Hey everybody,
New to the site. This past fall I bought a 64 4 door polara. It's going to be getting swapped to a 440 and some other things. I have done a lot of reading on what to buy and do's and dont's but one thing I'm still unsure of is headers. I've seen some from tti that are made to fit but kinda pricey for my "budget" build. Anybody done this swap and used some cheaper options? Don't have to be the prettiest just work. Thanks
i have a 64 Dodge that is using the Schumaker big block conversion mounts as my car originally had a 318.... i used the Hedman ceramic ones... number 78038 I think... fit good.. no dinging..FWIW i bought these almost 18 years ago so idk if or why they would be shaped different..
 
I had Hedman headers on the old Polara 500 with the 440 and big stock starter. They were the Hedmens that the one pipe went though the hole and around the frame rail. Maybe not the same header that’s being discussed. That was about ‘95 so things may have changed lots.

21D45AAF-A396-46CE-B65B-2F7EE669BA20.jpeg
 
Doing some transmission upgrades at the moment over here. This is for the Dart winter project. I had freshened up this trany a few years back. Since that time things changed and a hemi came on board so I decided to put some billet parts in for insurance. The front drum is aluminum with a steel jacket. Will see how that works.

This is a ‘68 trany so with the wide bushing drum, a newer style front pump was needed too. Race pump courtesy of A&A.
E92652C7-5F5B-47D0-A05D-AF59299E8395.jpeg



Good thing I checked the threads. Some monkey from decades ago had chewed up most of the threads in the one starter bolt hole. Heli Coils to the rescue.
3BD4D621-F09F-4A86-B755-DE1EDF2B3D75.jpeg


I sure am liking the looks of these PPP shifters.. hijacked picture. I’m thinking.
8FA32068-122B-4571-A962-21BF5ED0C886.jpeg
 
I noticed no one mentioning the max wedge exhaust manifolds--I use them on my 63s and changing plugs is a breeze--starters are a 15 minute job and they Never burn out or cook other things in the bay--sure theyre 1000.00 but buy two sets of headers and all the hassles they bring with them --plus you can run a 3 inch exhaust --you dont have to buy factory max exhaust systems--just buy the max flanges and any muffller shop can install a 3 inch system--I have a tube bender and build this stuff myself--its easy--just a few thoughts
 
I have a 64 Polara 426 and i went for the Hedman 78030 headers.
I have My heads off so the passenger Side install was a piece of cake, but the driver side is worse. I have removed the starter and i think that if i raise the engine a bit now i Will get it down there.

But i read in this thread the original starter wont work, My car is a 4 speed manual, is the starter the same for automaic cars? Can i also get a Dakota starter? Or maybe a ministarter?
Definitely get a Dakota mini starter.
 
I had TTIs on my big block and switched to Doug's. Much better spark plug access. Same 3/8" flanges and heavy tubing. Make sure you use NEW motor mounts so you don't have steering clearance problems with either brand.
 
Unless it's an all out effort, I never saw the need to move back the engine 1 5/8".


I agree, I have the original K-frame in my 63 Sport Fury and the car hooks great. And I love the extra room it has at the firewall as I can just about get all the bellhousing bolts out from the top. And if I ever go to the crossram intake it will fit without hitting the firewall. I understand why racers move the eng back but I dont think it helps much since my car still hooks fine without the eng moved back. I am using the TTI 2" headers and they fir perfect. It was worth the extra money to me. On my old 906 headed 440 I used the Hedman Elite 1-3/4 headers and they fit fine also. But you can see the much better quality of the TTI's. Good luck with it , Ron
 
Hey, gold ain't that ugly! :)

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Rick is right about the extra work, driveshaft and mount. For your 4 door, leaving it the way it is, probably best. You will likely have to cut the right lower corner of your K frame to give you adequate room for your oil pan but that is easy to do.
The newer style K Frame is effective to get your motor back a couple of inches. It's been noted many times in years gone by that a newer K Frame and SS Springs were the hot ticket for these old Mopars. This pic shows you TTI's and the newer style K Frame in place. Note the space at the pan and the K Frame. The collectors sure are positioned nicely on the TTI's. No problem with crazy pipe angles needed to get around the frame. View attachment 305571

View attachment 305567 View attachment 305568 View attachment 305571
im building a 64 also how much set back is actually going on if I change my stock k member
 
^^^^^^^ In post #14 states it moves the engine back 1 5/8''
 
Hey everybody,
New to the site. This past fall I bought a 64 4 door polara. It's going to be getting swapped to a 440 and some other things. I have done a lot of reading on what to buy and do's and dont's but one thing I'm still unsure of is headers. I've seen some from tti that are made to fit but kinda pricey for my "budget" build. Anybody done this swap and used some cheaper options? Don't have to be the prettiest just work. Thanks
It’s years later but I am doing the same thing here in 23 How did yours turn out?
 
It’s years later but I am doing the same thing here in 23 How did yours turn out?

Hello. I'm just finishing on a 440 build for my '64 Polara. The only good solution I found for headers (long tube) was TTI. Very knowledgeable & professional folks. They just didn't have any available for 2 to 3 months. Not inexpensive either. And/or a high cost per each additional horsepower. I went with 'high performance' exhaust manifolds instead. Noting, I'm not racing, just cruising. For my performance, I went with aluminum heads & intake, the Sniper II EFI, Howard's Rattler roller cam & 3" exhaust.

With these '64's it's about fitting in what you can when you can. I even had to go with a Mr. Gasket low profile (2 1/4" high) air cleaner. It saved me from needing to cut a hole in the hood.

Here's mine so far...

20230911_131616.jpg
 
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