wagonwedge330
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Thanks soo much for posting this pic, and your right, it looks like factory, and what I’m after! Thanks....
Disc Brake Conversions.....
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GRAMSCAR
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SSBC front and rear disc brake conversion. Had to wrangle the rears a little but, basic bolt on. Fronts went on without any issue. You will need to change your rear bearings to "green bearings", sealed, in order to swap the rears.
Leed brakes has the proper booster and master cyl for disc/disc conversion A8473.
You also need the backing plate for the firewall from a non-power car if your car is currently a power drum car.
Leed brakes has the proper booster and master cyl for disc/disc conversion A8473.
You also need the backing plate for the firewall from a non-power car if your car is currently a power drum car.
GRAMSCAR
Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention, stock 14" wheels will no longer fit if you upgrade to disc.
wagonwedge330
Well-Known Member
Thanks very much for your time, information, and the photos, this is will be very helpful, I recently came across a LEEDS brake parts / kits / disc conv. ad, I went to their website saw great reviews, but those can’t always be trusted, so I feel better now about ordering from them. My Polara’s brakes are factory non-power, however, they have been upgraded to drums and shoes off of a 1968 Road Runner with the optional 11” brakes, (shoes, and drums), I mainly didn’t want to do the disc conversion because I didn’t want the front wheels sticking out an extra 1.5” - 2” (probably less than this), but some conversions the wheels stick out so much more t reminds me of the old TriFive Chevy kits that first came out, how far the discs would kick the wheels out in front. Anyway, thanks again for posting this, I drive this car a lot, not to mention a panic stop a few weeks ago! It’s time for at least a front discs conversion at the minimum. Happy Holidays!
Glenwood
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My 4 wheel manual disc brake conversion from Dr Diff on my 64 with a 63 rear end a year ago went well and was a tremendous improvement over the drum brakes.
GRAMSCAR
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You can see from the pics that neither the front or the rear stick out as some people have experienced.
I'm very happy with them and believe you would be also.
Merry Christmas to you also and , Happy New Year!
Danny Garrison
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Wrong...my 2015 Peterbilt has disc brakes ,as does my Reliance Trailer...
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Anyone ever hear of these? Partsflow
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stock-Heig...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stock-Heig...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
I have SSBC discs on my charger. With 1/4" spacers I can fit the stock steel wheels. Magnums go right on.
I don't think there is much if any advantage to rear discs unless you are looking for a road course.
69Chargerdriver
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Check this article: https://www.moparaction.com/2016/03/16/disc-main/
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That is the grandad for factory front disc upgrading using all factory Mopar parts. No modifying or adapters.
You will never need rear disc unless you like to drive mountain roads fast, or road race. Just keep your brakes adjusted, use nothing but quality brake parts and make sure to do a complete brake fluid change every 2-3 years of normal driving, more often if you heat your brakes up a lot.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water/moisture. Since brake fluid will see temps in the high 200 an into the 300 ° in stop and go driving and can get much higher, and the fact that water boils at 212 ° at sea level, you can see why you want your fluid moisture free. When the fluid boils off you get air in the lines and that means no pedal.
You will never need rear disc unless you like to drive mountain roads fast, or road race. Just keep your brakes adjusted, use nothing but quality brake parts and make sure to do a complete brake fluid change every 2-3 years of normal driving, more often if you heat your brakes up a lot.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water/moisture. Since brake fluid will see temps in the high 200 an into the 300 ° in stop and go driving and can get much higher, and the fact that water boils at 212 ° at sea level, you can see why you want your fluid moisture free. When the fluid boils off you get air in the lines and that means no pedal.
Red63440
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I just order a kit from PST but it’s a Leeds kit. It bolts onto drum spindles and is designed to use my factory power brake booster. Reviews are great and they are about 40 minutes from me. Kit number is FC2002-C05P….
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