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Using shorty headers for turbo on big block.

Migsbig

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hi all, rarely have a question in a head that tingles as much as this one. What are your thoughts on shorty headers on big block engine running into twin turbo’s? Looking at a build project after my other two are done and thinking twin turbo big block might be a bit fun. Tried looking for headers for the application, but no luck. Builder quoted a price that is too much for drop down, thus looking at the shorties. Any suggestions?
 
I don't think they will last. The heat will kill them pretty quickly if not made of stainless. My red '66 is getting a turbo and I am going to use 314 stainless and a formed collector. If the pipes don't burn through at the first turn from the port the welds at the collector merge will crack from my study on the subject.

If you were doing a show car or something that doesn't see a ton of miles you might get away with the shorty header path. You would have to modify them to either turn 90 degrees or make an adapter from the collector to the hot side inlet flange.
 
I agree with the above. Holdener built (i think) a small block chevy with shorties turned upside down, and a stub pipe, and posted pictures with them glowing red, to weld-melting temps.
Ive thought about this idea,too. I think i would try cast iron logs, from an imperial or something, turned to the front. Then, a stainless adapter to the turbo hot side inlet.
Then, a bunch more plumbing, lol.
 
Ok, didn’t know issues would happen with that header. I do believe making a header adapter would work as suggested and though of doing that. As for the headers not holding up due to the heat was not calculated. If I could find stainless steel shorty headers and made adapters and wrapped them, that might be possible. Not a show car guy, but do plan on driving it on summer days.
 
Headers can work but you definitely need to support the weight other than the headers.
I used upside down rv manifolds on my fury. Front facing manifolds on a big block on the driver's side usually hits steering.
The 62-65 manifolds are probably the best shot as their exits don't angle.
You would need to do firewall surgery to put the turbos down low after the conventional rear exit setup.
 
Back in the '80's there was a local guy fooling around with turbos. He was using stock iron manifolds and they were melting. Good luck with anything short of stainless.
 
Part of the issue with any restriction on the hot side is the reduction in thermal efficiency and factory iron manifolds are just that. The excess heat needs to move out of the system and this is where the extreme temperatures will test your exhaust. I will use 2-1/8" primaries into a 4" collector on my 11:1 511" deal that will drink 110 or e85. I am less concerned about the 4150 throttle body/intake (vs 4500) because the post intercooler temps are not extreme like the hot side. I am shooting for 1300-1400 at 14psi.

DVW'd son dizuster has a small block with flipped manifolds that seems to work great. @dvw
 
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Back in the '80's there was a local guy fooling around with turbos. He was using stock iron manifolds and they were melting. Good luck with anything short of stainless.
If cast iron was melting, sounds like it might have had a fuel issue and might have leaned out some. Still, still doesn’t address the problem if a suitable replacement. Thanks to everyone offering advice. Figuring this stuff will probably take some time.

As for body mods to make it work, I’m cool with cutting up the car. I did think the turbos will need support. Maybe build a support on the headers?
 
Supports off engine mounts are a good choice, something on the engine not the body.

Not sure what someone would have done to melt a cast manifold other than run a hot diesel up a grade for an hour!
 
They must have hit 88mph too fast! Cast iron has a melting point over 2000 deg F.

I googled a little to see if cast iron of the 80's melted at a lower temperature : D

Maybe it was the 1.21 gigawatts that did it Gary?
 
Once again, appreciate the info. Gonna do a search tonight on headers and see if any Mopar SS one’s are around that might work with some modifications.
 
Mount the turbos where the mufflers are, pipe the boost forward, and plumb in the oil and coolant. One turbo, a size to fit a 3.8 GM, one to fit a 2.2 Mopar, blowing through aluminum tubing into a TBI. Resonators will mellow the exhaust after the turbos. The 2.2 will start spooling at a fast idle, minimizing any lag.
All the heat and weight in the back with two lengths of tube acting as intercoolers.
 
that is not feasible.

Mount the turbos where the mufflers are, pipe the boost forward, and plumb in the oil and coolant. One turbo, a size to fit a 3.8 GM, one to fit a 2.2 Mopar, blowing through aluminum tubing into a TBI. Resonators will mellow the exhaust after the turbos. The 2.2 will start spooling at a fast idle, minimizing any lag.
All the heat and weight in the back with two lengths of tube acting as intercoolers.
 
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Mount the turbos where the mufflers are, pipe the boost forward, and plumb in the oil and coolant. One turbo, a size to fit a 3.8 GM, one to fit a 2.2 Mopar, blowing through aluminum tubing into a TBI. Resonators will mellow the exhaust after the turbos. The 2.2 will start spooling at a fast idle, minimizing any lag.
All the heat and weight in the back with two lengths of tube acting as intercoolers.

Aren't you sorry you offered advice ?!?!?
 
I think he was joking about the heat. My LBC, (little british car) has a V8 with a whole bunch of exhaust in the engine bay that snakes its way down the front and through the center of the car. Hot feet suck and I don't know how thick of insulation it would take to cool off the cabin.
I can tolerate it as driving the car makes my heart pound. What is it about G Forces?
 
Currently plans are going to be delayed due to the being too rotted to build. Will probably a few years til the right car can be found to build.
 
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