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Any radiant heat guru's out there?

We have hot water heat. Fin tube baseboard, one zone of original radiators, and one zone with a heat exchanger and a blower through ductwork. We have a upstairs bathroom that will get a electrical in floor grid when the room gets remodeled some day. It would be perfect on a timer to come on a half hour before morning showers.
 
At least you should not have to use the expensive for in concrete pex tubing. Have you looked at the insulated panels the tubing snaps into? Takes care of spacing needs and makes those nice radius corners.
It was almost as cheap to buy 1,200 ft then to buy the 600 ft that I needed when I did the garage, still have half of it laying around lol.
 
We have hot water heat. Fin tube baseboard and one zone of original radiators and one zone with a heat exchanger and a blower through ductwork. We have a upstairs bathroom that will get a electrical in floor grid when the room gets remodeled some day. It would be perfect on a timer to come on a half hour before morning showers.
The biggest benefit to the Warmboard approach is reaction time unlike a slab.
 
Is this slab on grade and how dry is the dirt under it if slab on grade
On grade, 4' deep footer all the way around and not the slightest hint of moisture.
 
It was almost as cheap to buy 1,200 ft then to buy the 600 ft that I needed when I did the garage, still have half of it laying around lol.
One thing good about in floor/ insulated slab, the concrete is a huge thermal mass. I was surprised at how quickly customer's shops warmed up after having the doors open while pushing cars in.
 
On grade, 4' deep footer all the way around and not the slightest hint of moisture.

Dry dirt is R10 per foot
save the foam as you will get a better head sink and more even heat other than it will take longer to get the heat to the room but will retain longer so set temp and leave
If you can add outdoor reset to adjust water temp it will work best
 
Very interesting topic, I’ll be following along.

I have a house that was built in 64 and it has in ceiling (plaster) heating with individual temp controls.

Excellent and economical heating.

When / if we move there permanently may look at retrofitting in floor heating like you to replace the older ~ 55 year old system and get rid of the old wool carpeting.

Those floors are wood about 3 feet off the ground so maybe easier?
 
If you add 2 in foam on out side to slow heat going to ground will make it work better as well
 
Very interesting topic, I’ll be following along.

I have a house that was built in 64 and it has in ceiling (plaster) heating with individual temp controls.

Excellent and economical heating.

When / if we move there permanently may look at retrofitting in floor heating like you to replace the older ~ 55 year old system and get rid of the old wool carpeting.

Those floors are wood about 3 feet off the ground so maybe easier?
Where the hell have you been, haven't seen you in awhile?
 
interesting. sounds like the net rise of the floor, will be? be at least 1''?
relocate baseboard trim higher?
outside perimeter, as mentioned, of foam insulating the height of the slab, if accessible, will help greatly. screwing the tube containing panels to the slab - tapcons? use stainless.
appears you have done some research, you seem to have a good handle on it.
haven't done raised floor, i did engineer/ install a few direct buried in slab large hydronic radiant systems.
 
Have been looking at hydronic and solar battery systems. Are they worth the effort?
 
Most likely going this route since I can either build or provide everything needed except the plates which I'll buy. 2" lumber fastened to the concrete, voids in between filled with 2" foam, 3/4" plywood secured overtop, jig made up to groove the plywood for the PEX, aluminum plates then flooring?

It would look like this.


Screenshot_20201229-140934.png
 
that will work nicely.
except the height your finished floor will be. 3+'' higher. any problems with loosing height thru entry ways?
doors will have to be cut down, no biggie.
go for it! id love to see a 'build' thread
 
that will work nicely.
except the height your finished floor will be. 3+'' higher. any problems with loosing height thru entry ways?
doors will have to be cut down, no biggie.
go for it! id love to see a 'build' thread
Our living room has a 10' ceiling with 2 doors leading outside, a set of stairs to the kitchen/dining room and a spiral staircase to the upstairs. I'll rework both stairs and move the doors up.. royal pain in the *** but there is no other option if doing it right.

Not sure there's an appropriate place to do a thread on a living room remodel lol.
 
If I did this I would dig down and insulate frost walls on the out side perimeter
Ram set 2x4s on 16 in centers place two runs between each then fill with concrete
after set fill shrinkage with self leveling slurry tar paper and install hardwood
as you did say dirt is dry under floor R10 per foot and a good heat sink and will help keep room temp steady
 
If I did this I would dig down and insulate frost walls on the out side perimeter
Ram set 2x4s on 16 in centers place two runs between each then fill with concrete
after set fill shrinkage with self leveling slurry tar paper and install hardwood
as you did say dirt is dry under floor R10 per foot and a good heat sink and will help keep room temp steady
Not completely possible to insulate the frost walls as the basement stairway takes up half of 1 wall (8' below grade) and the rest is a concrete patio then another concrete pad out front. I can't guarantee what the dirt under the slab is like, all I can guarantee is the floor has never shown signs of moisture and that I used sand and a moisture barrier under it.

Honestly if I were to go the route you propose I'd take a jackhammer to the concrete and start all over... not 100% off the table yet either. Cost wise.. pulling up the concrete, installing the foam, PEX then re-pouring the floor, it's pretty inexpensive but an absolute mess and a ton of work.

This is why I started this thread, looking for info when comparing the many options. To me I can see the benefit of heating a mass like the slab, I can also see the benefits of a system that can be super isolated from heat loss while transferring the heat quickly with a very minimum amount of heat loss as well? How they stack up against one another is the question? Another thing I like about the heat panel style installation is it lends itself nicely to installing flooring vs concrete.
 
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If going to all the trouble of removing concrete (expensive stuff here right now like 160/yd) there are other flooring methods worth looking into.
 
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