Looking for opinions on how to proceed

myk r sanchez · Dec 30, 2020

vintage chromoly said:
Still have the manual drums on my 68 coronet RT.
They work just fine.
No need to waste time, effort and money on discs.

One of the most often preformed unnecessary mods in the hobby

If you drive your relic in modern traffic like some of us do, you need the better braking, tire and suspension technology. To drive a car without those things is a safety hazard and irresponsible for you, your car, and anyone else on the road. Its not 1969 anymore...

vintage chromoly · Dec 30, 2020

myk r sanchez said:
If you drive your relic in modern traffic like some of us do, you need the better braking, tire and suspension technology. To drive a car without those things is a safety hazard and irresponsible for you, your car, and anyone else on the road. Its not 1969 anymore...

Absolute nonsense! :thumbsup:

Runcharger · Dec 30, 2020

The way I look at it, disc brakes aren't on the sheet so no use putting stock 68 ones on it. Install the newer style and never look back. Keep the stock K'member and 11 inch drums to go along with the car when you kick.
Yeah sure drums are okay, they stopped okay on my 71 Hemi Charger and on my 66 Hemi Coronet, well as long as I kept up on having them adjusted correctly and didn't use them at over 90MPH that is. Good lining helps but I still think you have to keep up on adjusting them, Glad my Viper came with the optional discs.

mopar jack · Dec 31, 2020

Bought my 71 road runner 383 4 speed with drum breaks in 1994 and commuted to work in it for 6 years. My commute was 11 miles with 8 on interstate 80 in S.F. bay area. After the first week of locking it up in traffic I decided to take the surface streets to work instead. Never had a problem with my disc brake cars. I also have a 71 barracuda with a 440 auto and drum brakes that I drag raced at Sonoma raceway for 10 years. The track has 2 return roads that go slightly up hill and with the drum brakes at 100 mph I couldn't make the first turn. After I installed disc brakes (disco tech) I had no problem making that first turn off.

ckessel · Dec 31, 2020

Understood.

ayeayemate · Jan 6, 2021

1 Wild R/T said:
So I'm "restoring" a 68 Coronet R/T Convertible... Originally it was 4 wheel 11" drum non-power... That may have been fine in 1968 but no way I'm putting it back that way... I remember driving my 70 Charger R/T with 4 wheel drums back in the day, they were just "Okay" up to about 70-75 MPH, above 75-80 MPH you might as well throw out an anchor cause the brakes don't do sh!t...

So with that in mind I have a very complete swap ready to go in, including 11.75 rotors, 73 A body spindles, and a 70 only B body K member with the proper sway bar so the calipers are front mounted as they were originally designed to be..

But now I'm questioning whether down the road a potential buyer would be concerned about later model parts vs putting the early design 4 piston brakes & keeping the 68 K member & sway bar...

Personally I feel the later design stuff is better but I can see arguments both ways...

Anyone have thoughts they'd like to share?

ayeayemate · Jan 6, 2021

I like the way you think... Upgrading your drivetrain but keeping as much Mopar engineering in the car as possible. I did the exact same swap including the 70 K-member with the Firm Feel K-member reinforcement kit in my 68 Charger. You won't be disappointed with your choice. I went with Richard Ehrenberg Disc-O-Tech article. It's old school article, but I was able to locate everything I needed. Night and Day difference even with my stock 10 rear drum brakes.
Really appreciated your assistance on the updating of my AC system while keeping it close to stock as I could.

Looking for opinions on how to proceed

myk r sanchez

Well-Known Member

vintage chromoly

Well-Known Member

Runcharger

Well-Known Member

mopar jack

FBBO Gold Member

ckessel

Well-Known Member

ayeayemate

FBBO Gold Member

ayeayemate

FBBO Gold Member

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