• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Measuring for new driveshaft - not fully loaded car (rolling chassis only)

Jack Parmentier

Active Member
Local time
8:15 PM
Joined
Nov 29, 2019
Messages
29
Reaction score
11
Location
Apex, NC
Restoring my '69 Charger from scratch... I have only the rolling chassis on the ground ( 440 engine, 727 trans, ESPO XD suspension, 8 3/4 rear-axle installed -- no doors, hood, trunk, glass, etc.. ) and wanting to measure for a new Strange U1699 3" driveshaft (1350 U-joints)

But from what I am told, I need to have a fully loaded car before I can make this measurement. All weight added... As you can see, the rear end of car is off the ground quite a bit now. ( Note -- the lift is not holding up the car )

Anyway I can cheat and load the car somehow with weight to measure ? I'm wanting to get the driveshaft installed so I can put in my TTI exhaust ... seems you need the driveshaft installed first before putting in the exhaust, to make sure no interference issues.

Any hints / ideas... ?

Thanks,
Jack

IMG_4672.JPG
 
Not easily. I know my car came down 2-1/2"-3" while assembling it and and weight.
 
If the 440 is mounted in the stock location, the 727 has the standard 18 1/2" tailshaft & the 8 3/4 is mounted with stock springs in the stock location.... The stock drive shaft measurement should be fine.... That is 52.07....
 
This issue comes up occasionally.
For years, I was confident that at ride height with the shaft in place, the yoke should stick out of the transmission by about an inch. About a year ago, someone else posted about this topic and somebody made the claim that as the axle droops, the drive shaft needs to be shorter. He said this because when the axle moves down in extension, it also moves forward due to the leaf springs being hinged at the front and shackled at the rear.
I do wonder how much different the lengths really are though between full extension and compression. How much can it change?
 
This issue comes up occasionally.
For years, I was confident that at ride height with the shaft in place, the yoke should stick out of the transmission by about an inch. About a year ago, someone else posted about this topic and somebody made the claim that as the axle droops, the drive shaft needs to be shorter. He said this because when the axle moves down in extension, it also moves forward due to the leaf springs being hinged at the front and shackled at the rear.
I do wonder how much different the lengths really are though between full extension and compression. How much can it change?

Put your car up on a lift & try it.... Use your trans jack to raise the axle & se what happens... I have, the driveshaft definitely pulls out as the axle rises....
 
Put your car up on a lift & try it.... Use your trans jack to raise the axle & se what happens... I have, the driveshaft definitely pulls out as the axle rises....

I did notice that the driveshaft shaft distance increased about 1/4" when I went from no load to letting the tires down on the ground.
 
I talked with Strange Engineering this morning & they provided me with no help as to whether the distance increased or decreased with a fully loaded car.... they just said it "changes based on weight." :(
 
A 71 Duster with 340- 727 & 83/4 rear calls for a 44.99" driveshaft from C/L of yokes. If I make it 45" will I have a problem? Is this called cutting hairs and how big or small is .01 when measuring 45". Most guys know that size but I'll leave it to your imagination. Don't want to offend anybody, Amen or is it Awomen now?
 
A 71 Duster with 340- 727 & 83/4 rear calls for a 44.99" driveshaft from C/L of yokes. If I make it 45" will I have a problem? Is this called cutting hairs and how big or small is .01 when measuring 45". Most guys know that size but I'll leave it to your imagination. Don't want to offend anybody, Amen or is it Awomen now?

Well, actually the issue is that I don't want to tear apart hundreds of hours of work and money as this is not a factory setup, since I have moved to larger 1350 U-joints, so I can't just put in any driveshaft that might work.... 500+ HP on the wrong driveshaft setup can ruin a good day. So I fail to see the humor....
 
i did a driveshaft measurement for my tko500 installation on my 66 and the instructions do say to have all the weight in the car as it will be driven

see Step 1 for reference:

https://shiftsst.com/pub/media/wysi...00100_Driveshaft_Measuring_Procedure_RevB.pdf



watermelon
Thanks.... that matches up with the information from Strange.

So guess I need to get going on finishing the car & adding the body panels, doors etc. so I can get the driveshaft & exhaust installed !
 
The only problem with all the weight in the car is how can you get under it to measure what length you need. Unless you have a 4 post lift and weigh about 100lbs. your not getting under that baby to measure anything. And if you get under might not be able to get out.
 
I think Wild RT nailed it, if you have the motor in stock location, stock position of the rear axel, a normal car 727, the OEM length driveshaft is fine. Doesn't matter if you've gone to the 1350 U joints. It's U joint CC dimension that counts.
 
I used an OEM driveshaft in my 65 Dodge it was to short. (1330 ujoint) So I added 1.5" C to C ordered a d shaft with 1350 ujoint. It was almost to long because the yoke was thicker from ujoint forward.
 
Stock dimensions stock components all should be the same, as long as u use center to center of u joints. Don’t over think it.
 
I used an OEM driveshaft in my 65 Dodge it was to short. (1330 ujoint) So I added 1.5" C to C ordered a d shaft with 1350 ujoint. It was almost to long because the yoke was thicker from ujoint forward.

Center to center is the dimension you need to use. The 1350 U joint is only slightly larger than a 1330. Won't change the CC dimension much.
 
Center to center is the dimension you need to use. The 1350 U joint is only slightly larger than a 1330. Won't change the CC dimension much.
True that cup diameter makes little difference. What I'm trying to get across is don't order a d shaft C to C unless you have the yoke your using. On my d shaft he yoke forward to where the hub starts was at least a 1/2 to 5/8 in longer than the one that I had. If I had a picture it would be plain as day.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top