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Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

I should have mentioned toward the start that there will be some stuff covered here that may be unique to this car and not necessarily something that you will encounter if you decide to install one of these kits.
Sorry if some of the posts seem boring or fundamental. I'm just trying to be as complete as I can in the hopes that it might save someone some frustration down the road. I am a big believer in wanting to know all the information up front so I can be ready or at least ask someone who might have a "workaround".
Yesterday was a lazy day but I was back out there today.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder now has clear space to be bolted up. The wiring that was in the way has been relocated to go through the firewall in other places that turned out to be better anyway. The clutch and brake pedals are in so here we go. No more obstacles, right? Heh heh heh...
Old picture below but do you see that 3/16" thick flat lever on the column? For the 1970 model cars, It is part of the steering column lock. It ties in with the floor shift linkage so that the ignition key cannot be inserted or removed unless the automatic cars are in PARK or the manual trans cars are in REVERSE. This 5 speed swap uses a transmission with internal linkage so there is no way to integrate the system to the linkage.

SST 106.JPG

I would just leave it if it weren't for the interference it poses for the clutch master cylinder:

SST 133.JPG


Oh well....I didn't need it there anyway.....

SST 134.JPG
 
Ironbuilt said:
I love the B5 blue, and pair it with those Cragar SS rims...AWESOME!!! Next time I am in Atwater, we need to have lunch.
Click to expand...

Atwater is Hikin Mike... Granite Bay is a good 2 hour drive... I'm somewhere in the middle of those two locations...
 
Kern Dog said:
I should have mentioned toward the start that there will be some stuff covered here that may be unique to this car and not necessarily something that you will encounter if you decide to install one of these kits.
Sorry if some of the posts seem boring or fundamental. I'm just trying to be as complete as I can in the hopes that it might save someone some frustration down the road. I am a big believer in wanting to know all the information up front so I can be ready or at least ask someone who might have a "workaround".
Yesterday was a lazy day but I was back out there today.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder now has clear space to be bolted up. The wiring that was in the way has been relocated to go through the firewall in other places that turned out to be better anyway. The clutch and brake pedals are in so here we go. No more obstacles, right? Heh heh heh...
Old picture below but do you see that 3/16" thick flat lever on the column? For the 1970 model cars, It is part of the steering column lock. It ties in with the floor shift linkage so that the ignition key cannot be inserted or removed unless the automatic cars are in PARK or the manual trans cars are in REVERSE. This 5 speed swap uses a transmission with internal linkage so there is no way to integrate the system to the linkage.

View attachment 1054606
I would just leave it if it weren't for the interference it poses for the clutch master cylinder:

View attachment 1054607

Oh well....I didn't need it there anyway.....

View attachment 1054609
Click to expand...
That's why God made a cut-off wheel.
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Atwater is Hikin Mike... Granite Bay is a good 2 hour drive... I'm somewhere in the middle of those two locations...
Click to expand...
I didn't realize it was 2 hours. I know that I loaded in August in Atwater and it was hotter than the surface of the sun!!!
Where are you located?
 
The clutch master cylinder is a Wilwood unit with an adapter to fit the Mopar floor.
SST 125.JPG
SST 126.JPG
SST 127.JPG

It would be great to just place it against the firewall and drill. This not possible with the engine in place and those two right side holes are right up against the wheelwell anyway.
Oh, the lower left bolt?

SST 128.JPG

Trapped under the body of the master cylinder. You can't just set it against the firewall. You have to remove the adapter and separate the two, then get the bolt out.

I attached the clutch pushrod....

SST 130.JPG
SST 132.JPG
 
Then I fed the pushrod through the firewall through the factory hole....

SST 131.JPG


Attached the end to the clutch pedal, used the gold cadmium plate for a template...

SST 135.JPG


The threaded pushrod was adjusted so that the clutch and brake pedals were close in height.....

SST 140.JPG
SST 141.JPG
 
Ironbuilt said:
I didn't realize it was 2 hours. I know that I loaded in August in Atwater and it was hotter than the surface of the sun!!!
Where are you located?
Click to expand...

Modesto, AKA Methdesto, AKA Molesto... 30-40 years ago it was a great little farming community & the home of Gallo Wines and American Graffiti.... These days it's better known for criminals like Scott Peterson, Cary Stayner Plus Gary Condit/Chandra Levy
 
I'm waiting on the clutch pedal UP-Stop but there seems to be a lot of clearance from the pedal to the bracket...

SST 138.JPG
SST 139.JPG


I may have to make an extension once I get the Up-Stop.
I hope that the clutch has enough travel as it is. If I need more and it raises the pedal, I'll do something to raise the brake pedal too. I don't like seeing uneven pedals!

Lookie how much more room there is for the master cylinder with that steering column lever gone!

SST 160.jpg
 
Last edited:
The clutch master cylinder uses this remote reservoir:

SST 142.JPG
SST 143.JPG

It has a bracket that allows it to be mounted in a convenient place:




SST 144.JPG
SST 145.JPG




I disconnected the trans cooler lines and shift linkage, then the Bouchillon Kickdown cable. That has worked flawlessly for almost 20 years.
Now draining the ATF:
SST 155.JPG
 
With the clutch stuff figured out on the inside, I can now put the fresh air vent back in. The gasket was still soft and pliable so I cemented it in place with some weatherstrip adhesive and let it set up.

SST 149.JPG
SST 150.JPG
SST 151.JPG
 
Just wanted to say I am enjoying this thread. I plan to do a 5 speed swap on my Coronet, so this is all good info for me. Thanks.
 
Kern Dog said:
I should have mentioned toward the start that there will be some stuff covered here that may be unique to this car and not necessarily something that you will encounter if you decide to install one of these kits.
Sorry if some of the posts seem boring or fundamental. I'm just trying to be as complete as I can in the hopes that it might save someone some frustration down the road. I am a big believer in wanting to know all the information up front so I can be ready or at least ask someone who might have a "workaround".
Yesterday was a lazy day but I was back out there today.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder now has clear space to be bolted up. The wiring that was in the way has been relocated to go through the firewall in other places that turned out to be better anyway. The clutch and brake pedals are in so here we go. No more obstacles, right? Heh heh heh...
Old picture below but do you see that 3/16" thick flat lever on the column? For the 1970 model cars, It is part of the steering column lock. It ties in with the floor shift linkage so that the ignition key cannot be inserted or removed unless the automatic cars are in PARK or the manual trans cars are in REVERSE. This 5 speed swap uses a transmission with internal linkage so there is no way to integrate the system to the linkage.

View attachment 1054606
I would just leave it if it weren't for the interference it poses for the clutch master cylinder:

View attachment 1054607

Oh well....I didn't need it there anyway.....

View attachment 1054609
Click to expand...


For many years I used a carburator return spring to keep that lever in the proper spot so the key switch would turn without having to turn the lower collet ,because I discarded all that anti theft linkage.
 
NJRR said:
Question? Does the clutch master cylinder remote reservoir interfere with the spring clip to remove the cover of the brake master cylinder?
Click to expand...
I guess I will find out!
 
Kern Dog said:
I'm waiting on the clutch pedal UP-Stop but there seems to be a lot of clearance from the pedal to the bracket...

View attachment 1054620 View attachment 1054621

I may have to make an extension once I get the Up-Stop.
I hope that the clutch has enough travel as it is. If I need more and it raises the pedal, I'll do something to raise the brake pedal too. I don't like seeing uneven pedals!

Lookie how much more room there is for the master cylinder with that steering column lever gone!

View attachment 1054702
Click to expand...
I remember welding a spacer to hold my pedals even as well, I believe it was welded to the clutch pedal where it hits the stop.
 
This is coming along nicely. Are you still planning on removing the hump in the rear outer wheelwells on this car?
 
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