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440 crank bearing clearances?

Because I don’t use them unless my arm is twisted, I’m not up in the hydro roller choices or quality. I do know like any hydraulic they are subject to the wear of the bores, and I’ve read of noise issues with Comp although with the flat tappets I’ve never had a noise that was the lifters fault. Usually it’s a preload issue but I don’t think altering preload will stop your issue. Heavier oil might. Or hopefully guys with more experience with them will chime in with an alternative.
 
Because I don’t use them unless my arm is twisted, I’m not up in the hydro roller choices or quality. I do know like any hydraulic they are subject to the wear of the bores, and I’ve read of noise issues with Comp although with the flat tappets I’ve never had a noise that was the lifters fault. Usually it’s a preload issue but I don’t think altering preload will stop your issue. Heavier oil might. Or hopefully guys with more experience with them will chime in with an alternative.
Thanks
Engine only has less than 100 miles on it
 
Thanks
Engine only has less than 100 miles on it
Right- but the lifter bores have wear from the previous service life too. If bushings are not used (any build, not just yours) the new lifter is subject to the hole it ends up in. I’d probably use an organic oil and heavier viscosity but I’d consult your builder on the first- he knows the clearances and limits.
 
Now I'm confused, a 67' Motors book calls for 0005 to 0015 rod bearing clearance and the same on the main bearings. I have a set of mics that are probably a hundred years old (guessing as there were my grandfathers) the last accuracy check was forty years ago, plus I plasti-gauged both and got three thousand bearing clearance on all journals. At the machine shop, I had the crankshaft polished they supplied a set of bearings. In the real stock configuration, 0003 is enough clearance on both? The machinist when I told him what the book said he replied "That's too much, three to five thousand is more like it. "?????

A stock engine was notoriously TIGHT at .001" or even possibly less. Vic Edelbrock tore down a new 383HP motor, rated at 325/330hp in 1967 that only made like 275 horsepower on their dyno. He wondered why and turned out it was less than .001" clearance on the crank journals and even too tight in the cylinder bores. He had the skirts ground to give .002" and the crankshaft that or more, and walla: 300+ hp. With intake and cam-swaps, headers and different carbs, they eventually got way over 400hp, but it was beyond stock by far when they hit 325 like it was rated. The later 335hp "Road Runner" spec engines had the better heads and possibly looser clearances from the factory. I like them loose, with a HV pump and 10w-30 oil myself...
 
Augie,
I've used 0.002" - 0.0025" for both mains and rod bearings, Clevite 77 tri-metal bearings for both, with ARP bolts and rod cap screws and nuts using a HIGH VOLUME PUMP with Mobil One 10W-30 and one pint of ZDDP, a 6 qt pan, windage tray. The main bearings are full groove so the rod bearings get oiled for 360° of crankshaft rotation. My pressures are 75#-80# cold and 70#-75# hot at 3000 RPM and 55#-60# @ 1100 RPM idle. This is what works for me.
Exact bearing clearances are best measured with outside mikes for O.D. journal diameters and bore snap gauges for I.D. main bore and rod bore (with bearings installed and caps torqued to specs), with the differences being the clearances. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

Since you mentioned hi volume oil pumps just what makes them high volume?
 
Since you mentioned hi volume oil pumps just what makes them high volume?
For the externally mounted Mopar B/RB engine, the difference between the "standard" and high volume pump is the thickness of the pump housing, rotor and rotating ring. The difference (without actually measuring the installed pump) is approximately 1/2". These small changes increase the swept volume capacity for any given driven RPM. I suggest you visit the Melling web site.
www.melling.com/product/oil-pumps/
They explain the differences and offer suggestions. I believe they made the origional Mopsr pumps and many other engine components for all the other manufacturers. Hope this helps.
BOB RENTON
 
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For the externally mounted Mopar B/RB engine, the difference between the "standard" and high volume pump is the thickness of the pump housing, rotor and rotating ring. The difference (without actually measuring the installed pump) is approximately 1/2". These small changes increase the swept volume capacity for any given driven RPM. I suggest you visit the Melling web site.
www.melling.com/product/oil-pumps/
They explain the differences and offer suggestions. I believe they made the origional Mopsr pumps and many other engine components for all the other manufacturers. Hope this helps.
BOB RENTON

It does help thank you for the post.
 
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