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Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

From inside.

SST 267.JPG
SST 268.JPG


To aid installation, I will certainly cut more along the edges. The rear section can be cut back another 1/4". That will help the shifter stub clear since the next time the trans goes in, I'll be fighting with the hydraulic throughout bearing, clutch disc and pilot bearing.
The right side was where the trans was against the tunnel. I was able to pry with a screwdriver and pry-bar to get the needed clearance.
The left side will need to be cut some more. Not a problem. Look at that strange little nub sticking out. What is the point of that?

SST 268_LI.jpg



SST 269.JPG





The transmission crossmember can be unbolted and the transmission tilted back tomorrow. I'll cut a little more from the left side and the back, then see about fabricating the tunnel patch. I'm going to measure and order the drive shaft too.
 
Last edited:
I wouldn’t cut the sides of the tunnel, use a flat jawed vise grip (panel holder, duck bill style) pull out those sides. You may need to make a relief cut at the end (drive shaft side).
 
Kern Dog said:
The right side was where the trans was against the tunnel. I was able to pry with a screwdriver and pry-bar to get the needed clearance. Like I mentioned.... Perfect..

Look at that strange little nub sticking out. What is the point of that?
Click to expand...

Probably a locator for machining operations...
 
5.7 hemi said:
I wouldn’t cut the sides of the tunnel, use a flat jawed vise grip (panel holder, duck bill style) pull out those sides. You may need to make a relief cut at the end (drive shaft side).
Click to expand...

Good idea. I like that more than cutting out more.
Thank you.
 
Love the work you're doing here Mr Dog. How you get the time to work, work on the car and write all this up with photos is beyond me.
Out of interest, how many hours do you reckon you're in so far, including all the extras you're doing along the way? I'm trying to gauge how long it would take me to do the same, having less experience, and no lift. I would have limited time during the week, and even weekends are often busy.
 
I am actually off work right now. I am unsure if I will return to work or retire and consider a part time job to make a few extra bucks when needed. I still love framing but the type of work I really love isn't within the scope of the Union anymore, at least not here.
I am averaging 2-3 hours each day that I'm out there. I have not kept track of the time. There are some things that I've done that are unrelated to the swap simply because it made sense to do it now. The rerouting of the wires had to be done to make room for the clutch master cylinder and linkage. The motor mount had to be replaced to get the engine to sit level. The console top plates are getting sandblasted and painted just to try a different look.
I'm having a good time with it though!
 
Kern Dog how are you going make rear differential at ride height to measure driveshaft length?
Nice work.
 
Great thread very detailed and correcting things as you go is the right way to do it . Also love the fact others are helping with their own ideas and experiences .
That's going to be a nice change for you when your done .
 
Fran Blacker said:
Kern Dog how are you going make rear differential at ride height to measure driveshaft length?
Nice work.
Click to expand...
Heck who knows, he might even be looking at a need to change the pinion angle a bit if there was enough
change in the transmission output angle, for that matter?
 
I'm wondering how much structural integrity has been compromised with that ginormous hole
in the floor/hump?
Even with subframe connectors and such, I gotta wonder if the floor itself isn't going to be more
"springy" around that now, like when someone climbs in and sits down?
Would it help at all to take the edges of the hole and bend the metal at a 90 (either up or down)
along the circumference?
 
moparedtn said:
I'm wondering how much structural integrity has been compromised with that ginormous hole
in the floor/hump?
Even with subframe connectors and such, I gotta wonder if the floor itself isn't going to be more
"springy" around that now, like when someone climbs in and sits down?
Would it help at all to take the edges of the hole and bend the metal at a 90 (either up or down)
along the circumference?
Click to expand...

The transmission/torsion bar crossmember is literally directly behind the hole so the seats are well supported, The front frame rails run forward under the floor so the front floor pans are well supported, even now with the hole the floor probably doesn't flex much & once the patch is welded in it'll be just as strong as it originally was...

How many cars were driven for years with rust holes in the floor... This is a hell of a lot more solid then those....
 
1 Wild R/T said:
The transmission/torsion bar crossmember is literally directly behind the hole so the seats are well supported, The front frame rails run forward under the floor so the front floor pans are well supported, even now with the hole the floor probably doesn't flex much & once the patch is welded in it'll be just as strong as it originally was...

How many cars were driven for years with rust holes in the floor... This is a hell of a lot more solid then those....
Click to expand...
I fully agree with you.

Having said that, I like the way Ed is thinking. I think every bit of structural integrity you can add to these cars is a good thing.
 
Fran Blacker said:
Kern Dog how are you going make rear differential at ride height to measure driveshaft length?
Click to expand...
I put the tall screw jacks under the lower control arms and the axle, then lower the car lift. I keep the car lift arms under the car but not touching. This allows the car to sit on it's own weight yet still be stable so that if a jack slips, the car lift is close enough to keep the car from falling.
 
Kern Dog said:
I put the tall screw jacks under the lower control arms and the axle, then lower the car lift. I keep the car lift arms under the car but not touching. This allows the car to sit on it's own weight yet still be stable so that if a jack slips, the car lift is close enough to keep the car from falling.
Click to expand...
wile e coyote genius.jpg
 
I have used the tall jackstands to install subframe connectors on a few cars.
 
Kern Dog said:
I put the tall screw jacks under the lower control arms and the axle, then lower the car lift. I keep the car lift arms under the car but not touching. This allows the car to sit on it's own weight yet still be stable so that if a jack slips, the car lift is close enough to keep the car from falling.
Click to expand...


That sounds scary ! But well thought out. I guess it’s the same as laying under one on jack stands just taller ones. Good idea having the lift to back it up.
 
hunt2elk said:
I have found that this set up works pretty well if you ever come across one for sale. Clamps on a longer bolt in the crank or flywheel and the gauge is 1 1/2" or so diameter.

View attachment 1056714 View attachment 1056715
Click to expand...

@hunt2elk

Or @1 Wild R/T or others is that particular dial indicator the only type a guy would need to do all engine, trans, and any other measurements that require a dial indicator?

Like if you needed to check piston in cylinder depth, make head measurements etc. Just the ones that call for a dial indicator I mean.

Or would other types or sizes be required for some things?
 
tallhair said:
@hunt2elk

Or @1 Wild R/T or others is that particular dial indicator the only type a guy would need to do all engine, trans, and any other measurements that require a dial indicator?

Like if you needed to check piston in cylinder depth, make head measurements etc. Just the ones that call for a dial indicator I mean.

Or would other types or sizes be required for some things?
Click to expand...

The dial indicator itself can do all the measuring, some jobs require special fixturing. like the piston depth, it requires a bridge... I made mine... Pretty easy to do... I've made fixtures for lots of little jobs, doesn't need to be fancy, just needs to be repeatably accurate...

Honestly the indicator with that kit has a back plunger, it can do any measuring you need but having a indicator with the plunger through the stem is also useful...
 
1 Wild R/T said:
The dial indicator itself can do all the measuring, some jobs require special fixturing. like the piston depth, it requires a bridge... I made mine... Pretty easy to do... I've made fixtures for lots of little jobs, doesn't need to be fancy, just needs to be repeatably accurate...

Honestly the indicator with that kit has a back plunger, it can do any measuring you need but having a indicator with the plunger through the stem is also useful...
Click to expand...

Thanks, if you only had one is this type or the one through the stem more versatile?
 
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