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Looking for Header recommendations for a 67 RT

Jay Williamson

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Hello all,

I have a 67 Coronet RT that I would like to switch headers on. Mine are rusted and the passenger side rests on the inner fender well, which drives me nuts. I don’t want the heat to cause my inner fender well to start rusting. I’ve been watching some posts and it seems like either TTI or Hookers are the way to go. Does anyone know which is best to cure my two issues (rusting pipes and touching on the fender) What sucks is that the exhaust system is new. Should the new header bolt right up to the existing exhaust system or will modifications need to be made? Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
I'd say TTI or Dougs... Bolt up to the exhaust? Maybe but probably not....
 
I've had very good luck with TTI headers and exhaust systems. Remember, you get what you pay for. IMO.
 
I've got 2-1/8 stepped TTI's on my '67 and had them ceramic coated. Only issue is 2nd cylinder back on passenger side requires Accel short header plug and all required ceramic spark plug boots, even heat sleeves didn't help. But that is on very large primaries. Your existing exhaust may need to be lengthened or shortened to mate up to the collectors.
 
I've got 2-1/8 stepped TTI's on my '67 and had them ceramic coated. Only issue is 2nd cylinder back on passenger side requires Accel short header plug and all required ceramic spark plug boots, even heat sleeves didn't help. But that is on very large primaries. Your existing exhaust may need to be lengthened or shortened to mate up to the collectors.
Is this what you bought? Not sure what an Accel Header plug is? Where does that go?

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OP, you didn't describe your combination or how you use it. Major difference in header selection. The headers diesel_lv has are an all out race header. My TTI 2" are great on my '66 Satellite, but that's with a 500+ inch motor. A milder 440 would like the 2" or the 1 7/8" versions. All depends on what you combination and use is. Ceramic is worth something.
 
I was impressed by a header test where as part of the test they compared two identical sets of hookers, one coated, one as painted from hooker. (This was part of a power test on a big block chevy where they tried five different header sizes to see what happened to output)
What they found was that the coated headers ran several hundred degrees cooler than the painted. I was impressed by that. That, and the likelihood that they will last much longer sells me on the coating.
As for a rec, i havent heard a bad word about Dougs or TTI. Cant say that about hooker or hedman.
Edit: accel makes a spark plug with a shorter than normal body, to use with headers with poor clearance. Thus, header plug.
 
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Hello all,

I have a 67 Coronet RT that I would like to switch headers on. Mine are rusted and the passenger side rests on the inner fender well, which drives me nuts. I don’t want the heat to cause my inner fender well to start rusting. I’ve been watching some posts and it seems like either TTI or Hookers are the way to go. Does anyone know which is best to cure my two issues (rusting pipes and touching on the fender) What sucks is that the exhaust system is new. Should the new header bolt right up to the existing exhaust system or will modifications need to be made? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Do you have a 383 or 440? B vs. RB engines have different heights, as the RBs are taller. TTI makes headers specifically for B and RB applications, so they are likely to fit better, especially if you have a B engine like a 383. Many other headers are generic "big block" which means you have a greater chance of clearance issues.

I have TTIs on my 383 Road Runner. Work perfectly, no dings or clearance issues to install. TTIs get my vote.
 
If you can find a set the schumacher RB tri Ys are hard to beat, great ground clearance , good access to plugs and starter.
Pretty decent install.
 
Is this what you bought? Not sure what an Accel Header plug is? Where does that go?

View attachment 1058741
Yes, those are the ones. I believe they are overkill for even my engine since it is only street driven, 496 stroker w 610 crank hp. Header plugs are short spark plugs that will allow just enough room for a spark plug boot to fit on the spark plug. That is why they require ceramic boots, the silicone boots melt and missfire like crazy. The ceramic boots are a little pricey, but definitely worth it. I ended up using 4 straights and 4-90° boots. I had my headers ceramic coated to keep rust down and help a little with underhood heat. I did a grayish silver matte finish. No discoloring, always look good.
 
Do you have a 383 or 440? B vs. RB engines have different heights, as the RBs are taller. TTI makes headers specifically for B and RB applications, so they are likely to fit better, especially if you have a B engine like a 383. Many other headers are generic "big block" which means you have a greater chance of clearance issues.

I have TTIs on my 383 Road Runner. Work perfectly, no dings or clearance issues to install. TTIs get my vote.
It’s a 440 in my 67 RT
 
Thanks for everyone’s advice. Sounds like TTI is the way to go. Hopefully, my local exhaust shop will be able fabricate my new exhaust system to mate up to the headers
 
Hello all,

I have a 67 Coronet RT that I would like to switch headers on. Mine are rusted and the passenger side rests on the inner fender well, which drives me nuts. I don’t want the heat to cause my inner fender well to start rusting. I’ve been watching some posts and it seems like either TTI or Hookers are the way to go. Does anyone know which is best to cure my two issues (rusting pipes and touching on the fender) What sucks is that the exhaust system is new. Should the new header bolt right up to the existing exhaust system or will modifications need to be made? Thanks in advance for your advice.
don't do it..get replacement stock exhausts..headers capture the starter
 
Dougs...and none of them will probably line up with your current exhaust pipes;
Dougs are supposed to be as good as TTI but about 2/3 the price. I heard about them AFTER buying 2 sets of TTIs pipes.
 
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Maybe some TTI shorties if you are concerned about "capturing" the starter.
 
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