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Retrofit radiant heat (Warmboard)

747mopar

747mopar

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This thread really doesn't fit anywhere seeings how it's more for homes but I had some interest in it on a different thread so I'll post it here.

We built out home roughly 20 years ago, first we built the main 30'×40' with a full basement then later added a 24'×24' living room. The living room sits on a full foundation but is just a 4" thick uninsulated slab with a fireplace. At the time radiant floors and boilers weren't something you heard about and with an efficient wood burner insert our fireplace kept it super cozy.

Fast forward to now, we now heat the home and garage with a boiler so hot water is plentiful and radiant heat is becoming the norm. After running the boiler for 3 years I don't even want to touch the wood burner insert, with the boiler everything is outside and it can burn over 24 hours on a load.. no brainer.

The decision was made to go with Warmboard, it's definitely not the cheapest option but it's a company that has nothing but good reviews and a quality product that makes sense for my project.

Just received the installation kit which has the full panel and plumbing drawings, router templates, bits, guides and alignment pegs. Panels show up Wednesday:thumbsup:
IMG_20210116_141008720.jpg
 
Do you have to remove the floor finishes to install the product on a slab floor or do you leave vinyl and tile floors down? How thick is the product?
 
Coronet_Arch said:
Do you have to remove the floor finishes to install the product on a slab floor or do you leave vinyl and tile floors down? How thick is the product?
Click to expand...
You could install over either one if you wanted, ours is carpet so it's coming out. It's 13/16", they also make a thicker version for new construction where it is the subfloor.
 
Almost go time! Received my delivery today, hoping to start on it this weekend. On a side note..... My 1500 RAM hauled the 1,500 lbs like it was nothing, man do I love this truck!

After them sending me a sample it lived up to expectations except the shipping company! Nothing that really affects the functionality of it but damn.... some of the damage is borderline retarted!
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Watching!! Curious to see how you like the finished project.
Edit: You answered my question as I was typing.
Good luck!!
 
747mopar said:
You could install over either one if you wanted, ours is carpet so it's coming out. It's 13/16", they also make a thicker version for new construction where it is the subfloor.
Click to expand...

So the new floor is approximately 1-1/4 inch higher than the old with carpet as finish floor. If you are installing it in the kitchen run a filler under the dishwasher so it can be removed and replaced as needed. Also if there is a cabinet above the refrigerator the refrigerator may not fit back in the opening. Running the material in the bathroom the toilet should be removed and extention ring placed on the flange to raise it.
 
I will be doing a new high end home with that product seems interesting, its the whole subfloor. they are far from completion probably wont be finished until septemberish, big home 11000 sq. ft.
 
Coronet_Arch said:
So the new floor is approximately 1-1/4 inch higher than the old with carpet as finish floor. If you are installing it in the kitchen run a filler under the dishwasher so it can be removed and replaced as needed. Also if there is a cabinet above the refrigerator the refrigerator may not fit back in the opening. Running the material in the bathroom the toilet should be removed and extention ring placed on the flange to raise it.
Click to expand...
This is only going in the living room, the rest of the house is pretty cozy sitting above a heated basement. Yes 1 1/4-1 3/8, (13/16" Warmboard, 1/2" flooring) mine will be closer to 3" with the foam insulation added underneath. If this were being installed anywhere else in our home it would just get screwed down to the subfloor.... I don't even want to think about doing this to a kitchen, that would be horrible lol.
 
Last edited:
Don selleck said:
I will be doing a new high end home with that product seems interesting, its the whole subfloor. they are far from completion probably wont be finished until septemberish, big home 11000 sq. ft.
Click to expand...

That's the Warmboard S panel I believe, they make the R panel for retrofit jobs (because it's thinner) and the S panel that can be used as the subfloor which is a lot thicker.
 
first time I've seen it, was suprised when you posted the pics, good luck with it looks like a good idea.
 
So forgive perhaps a dumb question:
Radiators use hot water to run through them and heat a room. My understanding is radiant floor heating uses warm water; if I recall in the range of 80 degrees or so but circulates it near constantly.

Assuming the above is correct (and if not, please let me know too!), how will you reduce the heat of the water from your boiler? Does the system have a control panel that adjusts the temperature of the water?

Thanks,

Hawk
 
hsorman said:
So forgive perhaps a dumb question:
Radiators use hot water to run through them and heat a room. My understanding is radiant floor heating uses warm water; if I recall in the range of 80 degrees or so but circulates it near constantly.

Assuming the above is correct (and if not, please let me know too!), how will you reduce the heat of the water from your boiler? Does the system have a control panel that adjusts the temperature of the water?

Thanks,

Hawk
Click to expand...
2 ways.

#1 the heating loop for the floor is basically separate from the rest. There will be 2 T's added in the main 1" line that the water can pass right past the floor system. The T's will branch off for the supply and return with it's own circulation pump which is cycled on and off as more heat is needed.

#2 There will also be a mixing valve which is basically a valve tied to both supply and return that will mix the cool return with the incoming hot water to maintain the correct temp.

I've got more digging to do on the specifics but it's commonly done with these boilers. I'm assuming the first time you crack it open you'll get 180 degree water entering the floor? Maybe pre fill the lines with cool water? I'm running Taco Viridian pumps in my house and garage, they may even prove useful as they have thermo sensors and can be programmed to alter water flow.
 
Making progress! Started off using the bits that came with the concrete anchors but that wasn't cutting it, bought 3/16" bits for the SDS hammer drill and it was go time after that. On a side note, Simpson anchors cost half the price as Tapcons and look identical.

Warmboard calls for 1/2" Homosote sound deadening insulation, I went with 1 1/2"... easy fit using 2× treated lumber. Cost wise buying 2×12 and ripping them was a big cost saver seeing how I wanted the majority of the underlayment to be insulation not wood. Once I got on a roll my 12 year old jumped in and started driving screws:thumbsup:. 3/4 of the way done with the Warmboard.. time to take a break.
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Fran Blacker said:
Water temp is 140* in mine.
Click to expand...
Water through the floor? With the added insulation and the quick response time of this particular product I'm pretty sure you couldn't walk on it if pumping 140 through the lines.
 
Could be 120* but it only has bubbled reflective insulation and below is 1/2" plywood and 10" of fiberglass insulation. Put 3/4" sleepers then 3/4" plywood covered with tile on one half carpet on other half. A lot to heat, if it was concrete 140 would be to hot I agree. Didn't want the weight of concrete because the addition is on stilts. Would had to move my sewer line to avoid stilts.
 
Is the spiral staircase part of the area receiving the 3" build up? The change in height can cause cause a trip/fall hazard. You never want that large of a variation in height in a set of steps.
 
Coronet_Arch said:
Is the spiral staircase part of the area receiving the 3" build up? The change in height can cause cause a trip/fall hazard. You never want that large of a variation in height in a set of steps.
Click to expand...
That will be the last thing that gets addressed as it goes to the master bedroom. Trust me all things affected by raising the floor have been thought through. Fortunately my dad and I built the staircase so I'm well aware of how to adjust the height. Not looking forward to it nor raising the 2 outside doors but I sure am looking forward to laying on a nice warm floor.:thumbsup:
 
A little lengthy but covers the reasons I chose Warmboard.

 
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