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Anyone use 440source house brand head bolts?

I mean...even top fuel teams reuse the studs in the short block between rounds...

I did know a guy 25yrs ago who had a 12sec bracket car who said he put new main bearings in every weekend. To me, you've got a much bigger risk of messing something up that way.
 
Wouldn't you have to hone the mains with a bolt/stud change? Rod bolts I can see to a point. If using stock rods it's hardly worth reusing them when we have $400 h beams. I don't get new ARP2000's we jusr get new rods with new ARP2000's.
 
Jeremiah said:
Wouldn't you have to hone the mains with a bolt/stud change? Rod bolts I can see to a point. If using stock rods it's hardly worth reusing them when we have $400 h beams. I don't get new ARP2000's we jusr get new rods with new ARP2000's.
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No, when the block (mains) were straightened and made to size with the new hardware, as long as you were putting the same hardware back in, the result will be the same.
 
I have always mic’d them with going to studs. My buddy puts the crank in. Torques the mains and sees how the crank turns. If it’s to his satisfaction then he proceeds. Kim
 
69Bee said:
No, when the block (mains) were straightened and made to size with the new hardware, as long as you were putting the same hardware back in, the result will be the same.
Click to expand...

What do you measure the main bores with to make sure of them staying in the same place? Have you ever mic'd a box of main studs?
 
Jeremiah said:
What do you measure the main bores with to make sure of them staying in the same place? Have you ever mic'd a box of main studs?
Click to expand...
The bolts/studs will be industry std, and once the block is align honed/bored, new bolts/studs will be torqued to the same ft/Lb load, so the bores will respond the same. As far as the main tunnel is concerned, once the seasoned block is honed/bored, short of catastrophic failure, it should remain straight. So, how do you check alignment you ask? Well, if a seasoned block has never been honed/bored, it NEEDS to be... (cue the internet expert comments on this in 3-2-1). But, the crank turned over fine when I took it apart. Yes it did, in it's WORN condition. The crank is ground/indexed and new precision bearings are installed, and the block irregularities will become evident. Do it once; do it right!
 
furious70 said:
Good experience?
Up till now I've just used 50yr old originals for the turbo 383 but putting a new (used) 383 together and wondering about those or spending on arp. Not looking to go studs since my fury is just a street car.
Click to expand...

I used 440 source head bolts and the head stripped off one of them, I pulled them all and went with ARP's
 
Stanton said:
From 440Source:

Hi Stan,
Sorry we are not a member of that forum, so I wasn’t able to post there. I did check on our 109-1514, it is made up of several different components on what we call a “build sheet” for the kit. The washers are listed as “South Carolina, USA” as place of manufacturing origin. The field for the bolts is blank, so I cannot guarantee the place of origin. However the supplier we buy the bolts from is a US Company in Southern California, so we do purchase them from a US source. However they may have multiple factories or sources for them.

I do know we have been selling those head bolt kits for over 20 years, and there are probably over 10,000 sets out there, and we never had any kind of problems with them.

Thank you,
Brandon Nicholas
[email protected]
440 Source, Inc
Tel: (775)883-2590
Fax: (775)883-2421
Since 2003
Click to expand...

As a side note, and I know I'm no guru on engine building etc. I did have a manufacturing procurement career spanning decades. I have worked with extensively with chinese and india manufacturers (europe as well).

While I'm not claiming to be the world's foremost expert, I can tell you that there are laws in place (no, I'm not posting links) that allow companies to label their products as made in the usa when they are not completely made in the usa...you can buy multiple components and assemble them in blister packaging for example and call them the finished assembly (which could potentially be a bolt and washer packaged together) made in the usa.

Also, just because someone states they buy from a source in the usa, it doesn't mean that the source does not buy offshore. What's required legally is listed by the FTC and there is definitely wiggle room in there.

As far as buying Made in the USA, why not? Why not help promote jobs for our fellow car enthusiasts and citizens if possible? I've personally experienced a of quality issues in tech and industrial products with offshore suppliers. There's a reason that large companies have entire quality teams living on site at these plants.

I'm guessing people's personal experience with the quality of a given product over time may be the best indicator of quality and therefore advice/commentary on a given product. But like the internet or belly buttons, everyone has an opinion....including me I guess.
 
Same with vehicals . The big 3 have gone elsewhere for parts and assambly. First digit in the serial number is 1=USA built. 2= Canada built. 3=Made/Assambled in Mexico. I will never buy another new or used vehical that starts with a 3. Too many problems. Kim
 
furious70 said:
Good experience?
Up till now I've just used 50yr old originals for the turbo 383 but putting a new (used) 383 together and wondering about those or spending on arp. Not looking to go studs since my fury is just a street car.
Click to expand...
I used them in my friends 440 about 15 years ago. To this day they are fine.
 
69Bee said:
Ok, I'll pre-empt you. They offer BOTH ARP and "Fake" ARP. The prices between 440S and Summit Racing favor SR by $20-$30. SO, I would get ARP from Summit Racing anyway. As far as the OP question, he asked about their "House" brand, which will be made in china...
Click to expand...
I have been in the fastener business since 1972, and will tell you that the quality control in the USA is much better. Also the way ARP manufacture's is superior to many company's
 
Leland Industries makes all of it's bolts in Canada or USA and only used domestic steel. their moto is ” We are not the low-cost supplier; we don’t want to be.” I believe they are now the largest manufacturer of bolts in North America.
 
Consistency, especially over a long period of time, is somewhere that I believe low cost suppliers will come up short.

Shure the quality seems good when the line is started up and all of the american engineers are there.

But what happens after their substandard equipment needs adjusted or sharpened by people who have no idea how it even works?
 
oldkimmer said:
Same with vehicals . The big 3 have gone elsewhere for parts and assambly. First digit in the serial number is 1=USA built. 2= Canada built. 3=Made/Assambled in Mexico. I will never buy another new or used vehical that starts with a 3. Too many problems. Kim
Click to expand...
My 2012 Jetta is Hecho en Mexico, and it's been the most reliable and trustworthy car to me with 112k on it. I'm guessing there's some old Kraut walking the assembly line with a Luger to ensure quality assembly....or else! :)
 
oldkimmer said:
Didn’t Schultz say: I see nothing!!! Kim
Click to expand...
Yes, he said that a lot also. When Clink told him to do something i think i remember him saying"It will be done, comandante". It's the old German guy on the Chinese production line that says "I see nothing!".
 
Dan64 said:
Yes, he said that a lot also. When Clink told him to do something i think i remember him saying"It will be done, comandante". It's the old German guy on the Chinese production line that says "I see nothing!".
Click to expand...
I'm watching Hogans Heroes right now. Every night from 10-11.
 
Stanton said:
69Bee is just "assuming" they're made in China because "a lot" of their stuff is. But "a lot" and "all" are two different things. Its ******** like him who spread lies and rumors that can hurt or kill a good small business. Just look what four years of that **** has done to your country!!
Click to expand...
 
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