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Lunati Voo Doo Cams 10230702/ 10230703

JG71B

JG71B

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Anybody have any experience with either of these cams? I have read the several low compression 440 Builds on here the past few weeks and at the point of choosing a cam and I'm wondering if anybody has used one of these in a similar build. My static compression will be right about 8.5 to 1 and my Dynamic will be just at about 7:1 with the deck squared less another .040, stock cast pistons (planned for worst case .180 in the hole), ootb Eddy E Street 75cc heads, performer intake, at least a 750 cfm carb, 2500 stahl and 3.23's. It's supposed to be a low-buck build but considering I'm buying Edelbrock heads that sort of goes out the window. The rotating assembly is a 1977 0 mile warranty assembly. Appreciate any input
 
Last edited:
Anything under 7 grand is low buck anymore it seems.
I'll be watching as I plan a similar build with a B engine.
 
Just curious why you are wanting such low compression and using nice heads? Not that its bad but curious.

I'd recommend to see what Hughes has for a cam. I've used several cams in my life and the best one I've had was from Hughes. They ask allot of upfront questions on your build and needs, then recommend a cam to fit that.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php
 
Don Frelier said:
Consider the larger Summit Cam or deck the block.
Click to expand...
Summit cam is considered also. The deck is getting cut to nominal and another .040 coming off after that. That is where I got my numbers above using several different compression calculators planning for worst-case piston depth. What makes you mention this cam first over the others?
 
slepr1 said:
Just curious why you are wanting such low compression and using nice heads? Not that its bad but curious.
I'd recommend to see what Hughes has for a cam. I've used several cams in my life and the best one I've had was from Hughes. They ask allot of upfront questions on your build and needs, then recommend a cam to fit that.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php
Click to expand...
A relative had this block laying around for years and doing nothing with it and offered it to me, it was either that or an original running mystery motor, I knew exactly what I had with this so that's why I went with it. And to be honest I'd rather build one so I know what's there and Jr is coming of age and it would be a nice little project for him to be involved in as I never had that opportunity at 16. It also seems that what I have and what I plan on doing that air flow is more important than compression so that's what I'm shooting for. As far as the Hughes cam, they are cam wizards but, honestly the only thing I don't like is the idle, it's just ridiculous
 
JG71B said:
What makes you mention this cam first over the others?
Click to expand...
You did mention budget build and I know that the Summit cam will develop good cylinder pressure around 2,500 rpm.
I did use the term "consider" meaning just a suggestion.
If you are going to deck the block .040" why that number? Just because the head gasket thickness?
I know you can run into geometry problems if you go further but if you're decking it I'd consider going further.
 
Don Frelier said:
You did mention budget build and I know that the Summit cam will develop good cylinder pressure around 2,500 rpm.
I did use the term "consider" meaning just a suggestion.
If you are going to deck the block .040" why that number? Just because the head gasket thickness?
I know you can run into geometry problems if you go further but if you're decking it I'd consider going further.
Click to expand...
Cylinder pressure ! Someone's payin attention! that's my thinking exactly, I didn't want to run into Geometry problems or having to elongate holes for the intake, etc either. And like I said, that's worst-case piston depth so, if it's anything less it's only going to benefit me. After reading a bunch of things on here and other places I tried to pay more attention to my Dynamic compression because that's where you're cams intake closing ABDC comes in and makes a big difference on with low comp. I also paid attention to where the heads flow and at what lift. I need a pretty close to or at least .500 lift to take advantage of the heads. I'm going to go with the e-street heads because of the two chamber volumes offered and the flow number (AND US made!). The .040 got me to a minimum dynamic of 7:1
 
Not a fan of cutting the deck, it messes with the intake alignment, .040 might be safe or it might be a problem... You need to know the true measured deck height of the block vs blueprint spec which is 10.725... If the measured number is 10.750 than it's completely safe to take .025.... If it measures 10.725 I wouldn't want to take another .025 without knowing I could have issues with intake manifold alignment/sealing

If you are using a typical composition head gasket it's .020 thicker than a stock OE style steel shim gasket so .020 is just getting back that difference...

Beyond that if you start looking at cutting the intake or intake surface of the heads to fit the block... Swap intakes? Well if you cut the intake now that intake doesn't fit other engines & you need to cut the new intake to fit... For every .010 off the deck the intake needs to be cut .012 of each side...

Now if you'r cutting the intake surface of the heads you can swap intakes but the heads are now married to that block...

If you cut the head reducing chamber volume you gain compression too but when you cut the head & intake surface of the head then parts swapping isn't a problem...

The right way to gain compression is with the right pistons..... Doing it the wrong way creates more problems than it solves...
 
Oh, also one way or another (off the heads or the block) I'd take the .020 cut to compensate for the composition head gaskets cause aluminum heads don't play well with steel shim head gaskets..
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Not a fan of cutting the deck, it messes with the intake alignment, .040 might be safe or it might be a problem... You need to know the true measured deck height of the block vs blueprint spec which is 10.725... If the measured number is 10.750 than it's completely safe to take .025.... If it measures 10.725 I wouldn't want to take another .025 without knowing I could have issues with intake manifold alignment/sealing

If you are using a typical composition head gasket it's .020 thicker than a stock OE style steel shim gasket so .020 is just getting back that difference...

Beyond that if you start looking at cutting the intake or intake surface of the heads to fit the block... Swap intakes? Well if you cut the intake now that intake doesn't fit other engines & you need to cut the new intake to fit... For every .010 off the deck the intake needs to be cut .012 of each side...

Now if you'r cutting the intake surface of the heads you can swap intakes but the heads are now married to that block...

If you cut the head reducing chamber volume you gain compression too but when you cut the head & intake surface of the head then parts swapping isn't a problem...

The right way to gain compression is with the right pistons..... Doing it the wrong way creates more problems than it solves...
Click to expand...
1 Wild R/T said:
Oh, also one way or another (off the heads or the block) I'd take the .020 cut to compensate for the composition head gaskets cause aluminum heads don't play well with steel shim head gaskets..
Click to expand...
Believe me, all your points have been considered. The only cutting will be to the deck or the intake side of the heads. I'm going to play with the calculators a little more see what I can get with the factory deck height and see what I can come up with minimal cutting. I am but, I'm not really trying to raise compression, more so just trying to round up I guess you could say, same difference I suppose. I just wanna take advantage and max out what I have. And who wouldn't want 400+ horses from a low compression pump gas motor
 
Deck the block then cut the heads ... jeez I hate that! For the money, why not get a properly fitting piston ?!?!?

Squaring the decks is fine and usually involves minimal material removal. This can be made up with a thicker gasket to bring you back close to a stock deck height. Instal a piston with a proper compression height and no matter what you do down the road you know you're not going to have issues because you cut the heads, intake or whatever.

You can safely up the compression with aluminum heads to 10:1
 
Another recommendation is basically leaving the block deck surface alone then cut .020" off of the heads which will bring cc's down to 71cc's, run the steel shim gaskets sprayed with coppercoat which should put compression around 9 to 1, and camshaft use the Summit cam #6401.
 
kramer said:
Another recommendation is basically leaving the block deck surface alone then cut .020" off of the heads which will bring cc's down to 71cc's, run the steel shim gaskets sprayed with coppercoat which should put compression around 9 to 1, and camshaft use the Summit cam #6401.
Click to expand...
Ive never used aluminum heads before but, being a machinist I know different materials react differently to temps and at different rates than others so Im not even going to attempt the .020" steels.
I can live with just under 9 with a .039" FP. I do like how that sounds, nominal deck and .020 off the heads.
I have no reason to buy pistons to achieve 10:1 but I get your logic being able to with the aluminum heads
 
I used a 702 voodoo in a small block...with eddie heads....and i have one Im considering for a B383 i just picked up.
Runs good in the small block..but i have a 2500 stall, 3.23, 28" tire.
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Not a fan of cutting the deck, it messes with the intake alignment, .040 might be safe or it might be a problem... You need to know the true measured deck height of the block vs blueprint spec which is 10.725... If the measured number is 10.750 than it's completely safe to take .025.... If it measures 10.725 I wouldn't want to take another .025 without knowing I could have issues with intake manifold alignment/sealing

If you are using a typical composition head gasket it's .020 thicker than a stock OE style steel shim gasket so .020 is just getting back that difference...

Beyond that if you start looking at cutting the intake or intake surface of the heads to fit the block... Swap intakes? Well if you cut the intake now that intake doesn't fit other engines & you need to cut the new intake to fit... For every .010 off the deck the intake needs to be cut .012 of each side...

Now if you'r cutting the intake surface of the heads you can swap intakes but the heads are now married to that block...

If you cut the head reducing chamber volume you gain compression too but when you cut the head & intake surface of the head then parts swapping isn't a problem...

The right way to gain compression is with the right pistons..... Doing it the wrong way creates more problems than it solves...
Click to expand...

I've had two people disagree with this post JG71B & Sahara... Care to explain your thoughts? Cause whether you agree or not the information posted is correct...
 
1 Wild R/T said:
I've had two people disagree with this post JG71B & Sahara... Care to explain your thoughts? Cause whether you agree or not the information posted is correct...
Click to expand...
All due respect, I wasnt trying to disagree or say the info is wrong. Im really just trying to squueeze out what I can with what I have, spending the least amount for best bang without getring TOO complicated, (I DO over think **** a lot) like everyone else lol. Posts like IQ52's (I believe thats his handle here) 72 low comp tests and results inspires me to give something similar a try since I had the short block. Relatives have 516 and 915's lying around and they even agree that by the time I get done refinishing factory heads cost wise, it just seems to make more sense to get a set of modern heads for the same money with better flow etc. That's what I'm trying to focus on here is flow and cylinder pressure because I lack higher compression. I know Pistons are the hundred percent correct more expensive and simplest way to do it but like I said I'm trying to squeeze as much blood out of this turnip as I can. The extra 0.040" off of the nominal deck height was just an idea to round comp numbers up and yes to be honest I thought it would "close the gap" a little. Thats why Im here for the input. Good or bad however it comes (respectfully). Lol, if I knew it all, I'd be out driving it right now!
 
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