MoparMikey
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Just curious is there anything worthwhile to do to a stock 1969 318 2bbl to improve power some. Not looking for race engine stuff. I realize intake/4 bbl is a no brainer what else?
UPGRADE A 318
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headers! RUFFCUT
MoparMikey
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Should have said about 300hp. Cam heads etc can you provide specifics?
Intake, 4 barrel, ignition curve, dual exhaust in that order. Cam/headers/heads. Next step. Don't forget rear gear and tire size. That can make a huge difference. Poke 318 in the search box. Probably a couple hundred threads.
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Danny Boy
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Uncle Tony on the Mighty 318!
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The biggest cork to air flow is the stock heads. The factory didn't even use them when they put a 4bbl on the '78 and up 318, they used the 360 heads.
451Mopar
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Edelbrock performer intake, 600 cfm carb (or EFI), dual exhaust. Stock manifolds are OK if your just doing a daily driver. If looking for more performance, then headers, but many of the cheap small block headers that hang under the suspension tie-rods are prone to getting bashed up.
Recurve the ignition http://4secondsflat.com/Mopar Mechanical timing limiter plate.htm
Do the above and dial in the tune and see how you like it before changing cams. If the timing chain has a bunch of slack, replace it with a good quality double roller timing set.
If you want to cam the engine, you will be limited by the stock torque converter stall speed.
With a stock converter, you should be pretty conservative on cam duration (like under 210 duration @ 0.050"), Maybe something like the Lunati Voodoo 208/213 @ 0.050" cam.
https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-...-cam-lifter-kit-chrysler-273-360-250-256.html
You might want to get the entire kit with timing set and valve springs.
https://www.lunatipower.com/cam-k-kit-chr-a-v253h12.html
If you want to run a larger cam > 220 degrees @ 0.050", then you need to re-think the entire combination. A higher stall torque converter at a minimum.
The stock 318 heads will be a limiting factor, so you should look at better flowing heads, maybe a 360 or Magnum head conversion.
The different heads and higher RPM would like a better intake like the Performer RPM intake.
Recurve the ignition http://4secondsflat.com/Mopar Mechanical timing limiter plate.htm
Do the above and dial in the tune and see how you like it before changing cams. If the timing chain has a bunch of slack, replace it with a good quality double roller timing set.
If you want to cam the engine, you will be limited by the stock torque converter stall speed.
With a stock converter, you should be pretty conservative on cam duration (like under 210 duration @ 0.050"), Maybe something like the Lunati Voodoo 208/213 @ 0.050" cam.
https://www.lunatipower.com/voodoo-...-cam-lifter-kit-chrysler-273-360-250-256.html
You might want to get the entire kit with timing set and valve springs.
https://www.lunatipower.com/cam-k-kit-chr-a-v253h12.html
If you want to run a larger cam > 220 degrees @ 0.050", then you need to re-think the entire combination. A higher stall torque converter at a minimum.
The stock 318 heads will be a limiting factor, so you should look at better flowing heads, maybe a 360 or Magnum head conversion.
The different heads and higher RPM would like a better intake like the Performer RPM intake.
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One of these days, I am going to do something with that 318 I have on the engine stand.
I've read about the 4 inch stroke crank builds...a 390 cubic inch plant that looks like a 318. Even staying stock stoke but a .030 bore to clean it up, stepping it up to true 9.5 compression, a cam at least as big as a stock 340 cam could really wake it up.
Ford and GM have been making power with their lower displacement V8s. The Ford 5.0 was a dragstrip winner for years. There is no reason why a 318 couldn't be built to be competitive.
Just look at the similarities and differences between the 318 and the 340.
Both have the same stroke but the 340 has a bigger bore to get the extra 22 inches.
The 340 had more compression, better heads, a bigger cam, larger carburetor and better exhaust manifolds with dual exhaust.
If you built a 318 to 340 specs, there is no logical explanation as to why you couldn't make a big improvement over the 150 hp rating that the 318 2 barrel engine had.
s/w theo
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- A friend had a 72 Duster Twister back in the late 70s (78-79) bone stock nice car. It was a factory 318, 3 speed manual on the floor car & I think a 3:23 gear. All he did to that car was, headers, duals, electronic ignition & a high volume oil pump. The car was still a 2 bbl, & it was a FREAK! No lie. It beat ALOT of "Muscle Cars". It was surprisingly fast for a 318 2bbl. I had a 71 383 Road Runner at the time, not real quick, but would go pretty good upstairs. I BARLEY beat him on the highway. I think the key to that car running so good was that is was not to wild & not over carbed. Just my 2 cents. PS. That car got wrecked, & he took that engine out & put it in another Duster & that ran awesome too!
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I've had a couple of 318s long ago, one in a 4 door '71 Satellite automatic and in a '74 D100 truck 4 speed. Both woke up considerably with just an adapter plate and a Holley 500 2bbl.
ckessel
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A limiting factor on the 318 is the bore size. You can't get carried away with big valves due to interference issues. The 302 casting or the later Magnum would work. Magnum has valve train issues that can be dealt with or the Engine Quest heads, Indy/Hughes and others, give you the shaft rocker option. Mags used a 1.92 size intake. Highest flowing of the oe heads especially on the exhaust.
rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
This is incorrect as the 318 can and will work with 2.02/1.60 valves. If you make a case on shrouding, you would be correct and only that it has it. To argue the demerits of the valve size and the shrouding is ridiculous.
I agree except I’d walk away from a 302 head and go right to a Magnum head if the mod issues didn’t bother anybody for there use. Otherwise, unless racing, the current stock head will do just fine and really well ported. For what it is.
IF your going to build a powerful 318, it would be 340/360, 2.02 head or an aluminum head. Builders choice.
What valve train issue are you talking about?
Outside of pushing the heads as cast limits, I have found nothing wrong with the Magnums valve train.
Once you start to push there abilities, upgrading the attaching point in the head is what is known. From that point on, it might as well be roller rockers.
![041600951720[00].jpg](https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/data/attachments/990/990636-12077e8d485abd24e1226455b9cd1eff.jpg "041600951720[00].jpg")
![041600951718[01].jpg](https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/data/attachments/990/990637-7eba7d44448fad514a5027828678cb61.jpg "041600951718[01].jpg")
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Yeah?
Is that YOUR port work? Looks pretty!
Is that YOUR port work? Looks pretty!
He knows how to use tools.
ckessel
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Valve train issues being swapping to the stud rockers, different pushrods and lifters. Mags oil through the pushrods like chebby. I stand corrected on the valve size issue.
You need AMC lifters (that oil through the pushrods. Most hydraulics nowdays do) and hollow pushrods to get the oil to the rockers.
We ran a budget 318 for my son and his buddies to race in high school.70 Dart. 245 60 street tires, 4.10, stock converter , 727. 318 stock short block, 484 Mopar Cam, stock 360 heads, TQ carb, and intake, headers, 2 1/2" exhaust. The cam was a little big and converter a little tight. That kept it from spinning the street tires. Ran consistant 14.0@100 always in 100%street trim.
Doug
Doug
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