Points to EI issue

wagonman · Jan 31, 2021

Howdy folks, I just converted my BB from points to a Mopar style conversion. Ran fine with the points but I had the EI laying around so I wired it up and slammed it home. BTW this is one of Boggers Hi Rev 7500 units. So No spark is the issue. I used a jumper from the starter sol post to the run side of the ballast just to take all wiring out of the picture still nada. While removing thr jumper I heard snap like spark jumping. I pulled the coil wire off the cap and repeatedly touched the ballast with the jumper. Nice hot spark on Both sides of ballast while doing the little trick. I ohms checked the pickup a at 350 ohms and rechecked the reluctor gap with a brass feeler. Suspect the PU is NFG. Can I test it with aDVOM set on the A/C scale and get a reading while cranking? Thanks Wagonman. PS I have one in my 68 440 and it runs fine for 7 years also swapped that module in just for SNG.

65-440 · Jan 31, 2021

Just went through this....first off what do you mean by hot spark at the ballast? Did you verify battery voltage at the positive terminal of coil with key on( will be less than battery due to voltage drop from ballast)? Then verify full battery voltage at that same terminal while cranking. Put a test light on the negative terminal and see if it flickers while cranking, that'll tell you the distributor and ecu are working.
Check those and report back
..... if you're seeing sparks when putting a jumper from battery positive to ballast then that circuit has a short to ground, that should be hot with key on.

wagonman · Feb 1, 2021

65-440 said:
Just went through this....first off what do you mean by hot spark at the ballast? Did you verify battery voltage at the positive terminal of coil with key on( will be less than battery due to voltage drop from ballast)? Then verify full battery voltage at that same terminal while cranking. Put a test light on the negative terminal and see if it flickers while cranking, that'll tell you the distributor and ecu are working.
Check those and report back
..... if you're seeing sparks when putting a jumper from battery positive to ballast then that circuit has a short to ground, that should be hot with key on.

What I am getting is a spark from the coil wire ( plug wire ) that goes to the dist cap. I have a spark tester plugged to it and when I repeatedly touch the ballast i get a good hot spark. I will test as you said and report back.

dryheat · Feb 1, 2021

Also check to make sure your rotor is in the distributor ... don't ask me how I know this.

wagonman · Feb 1, 2021

I rechecked all voltages @ ballast and coil all good. Checked negative term at coil with a test lite and no flickering. Going to grab a pickup and see what happens.

wagonman · Feb 1, 2021

dryheat said:
Also check to make sure your rotor is in the distributor ... don't ask me how I know this.

DOH

LowBikeMike · Feb 1, 2021

The spark you are seeing when removing power is normal and an indication that your module has the ability to fire the plugs.

65-440 · Feb 1, 2021

wagonman said:
I rechecked all voltages @ ballast and coil all good. Checked negative term at coil with a test lite and no flickering. Going to grab a pickup and see what happens.

The flickering is only when cranking by the way

65-440 · Feb 1, 2021

dryheat said:
Also check to make sure your rotor is in the distributor ... don't ask me how I know this.

That's too funny!

wagonman · Feb 1, 2021

65-440 said:
The flickering is only when cranking by the way

Yup got it, no flicker.

65-440 · Feb 1, 2021

wagonman said:
Yup got it, no flicker.

If you have no flicker then you have no spark out of the coil, the pickup in the distributor is what makes and brakes ground causing the coil to discharge. Set your reluctor gap to .008", think you mentioned you did that already. Ohm out pins 4 and 5 at the ecu 5 pin connector and verify resistance through the distributor( leave distributor 2 pin connector hooked up) ...should read between 150-900 ohms..

65-440 · Feb 1, 2021

Here..

wagonman · Mar 26, 2021

We have ignition. After dinking with this off and on for a few months I decided to go the 4 pin GM module route. Pretty easy to convert and it fired up on the first try. No more ballast resistor, or the HiRev module. Going to put it on my Snap-on scope and look at Max KV, dwell and burn time. Sure sounds snappier for sure. Using a Napa/Echlin coil that takes a resistor but will go with a internal resistor MSD. Now I can finish the rear diff. Happy! Thing is I have the same setup on the R/R from E booger and it has never missed a beat. Bad Module ? Dont know dont care.

Points to EI issue

wagonman

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