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'70 318/2bbl buildup ideas?

Triplegreen500

Triplegreen500

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So, I really like having the original motor in my survivor '70 Charger 500. It's not a race car, I didn't buy it to drag race, or be stupid in. It's a near-twin to one my mother bought brand new, that was wrecked by my cousin in '75 - a nostalgia piece. I've wanted one all my life, and I have finally found the "right" one - colors, options, everything. Damn near the exact twin of mom's old car.

If I want to go fast, I have my '72 Satellite wagon Gen III project, I have my turbo cars, and I have my motorcycles (one of which weighs 370 lbs with 156 RWHP). The Charger...is just a cruiser.

That said...I do like to tinker (don't we all?). So, I'm looking at ways to invisibly add some power to the ol' girl. Currently it's a bone-stock, numbers-match 318 2bbl, factory a/c car, with a 904 automatic and an open 8.25" rear. Runs great, actually. Since I'd like to keep things "invisible", it kinda limits me to...compression (piston swap), stroker crank, or the easiest - a cam upgrade. Not sure if I want to go "day 2" and put a 4 bbl on it or not; ditto changing the heads. It doesn't have power brakes, so I don't need a lot of idle vacuum - so a cam can get a little wild, if there's anything that works well with a factory 2bbl and stock heads/compression.

And yes, I know...anything too wild and I'll need to massage the 904...and I should put a SG in the rear...it always snowballs. My Satellite did that years ago - cammed it's 318, it ate the 904, swapped to a 727, then it got a 360/380 crate motor, and the 727 went reverse/manual valve body with a 2400 stall converter...never did have to mess with the factory 489 case 8.75" 3.23 sure grip, though! Well, other than the green bearing swap that is...

Anyone have any ideas? This is what happens when I can't drive the car - too much snow and ice out, so I sit around, look at it, and think about stuff I could do while it's trapped in the garage till spring...
 
I think the saying is "It's only original once"
That said, I too have the tinker bug and can't leave things alone.
The only way to keep the survivor look is to go internal. But you are still limited to a 2 bbl/ intake with single exhaust.
If it were mine,it would get intake,carb.headers duals and at least just the duals with the cast iron manifolds.Nice set of wheels and tires and be ready for spring/summer.Your call..
 
Someone already put duals on it, I guess the factory single rusted out at some point. Stock manifolds, duals, and Flowmaster 2 chambers that freakin' DRONE (might be swapping them at some point). At least the turn-down tips look correct-ish.

I put my 17" ridlers on it a couple weeks ago - look decent (torq-thrust style), but too big for it. It may get some old-school Torq-Thrust (gray centers) at some point, not sure. The factory wheel covers have a nice "survivor" look to them, they're in good shape, and the wheels are wearing good BFGs so no rush there as far as safety goes, at least.

Yes - they are only original once.

And.. this is the problem with "down-time" in the winter. I find all sorts of ways to spend money...that I haven't got!
 
It’s a big car with a small engine, what can you do? I’d drive it and enjoy it for what it is. Dump those flowmasters quickly. I Can’t stand that sound they make.

I’d check your rear end gear ratio. And I’d get some 3.2 gears under it. That will help it out if you have 2.7 now.

And avoid large heavy wheels, Like 15x8 or larger diameter. They use up power to spin and brake power to stop.
 
Yeah, the rear decodes as a 2.x ratio. I may swap it, I may leave it. But the flowmasters will likely go. Soon. Like, once I'm able to drive it enough to get really sick of them.
 
Can you define what "more power" means in your mind? Day to day driving when you punch it you get more kick to pass a car or to feel more pulling way from a red light or when you are reving it and you want it to not fall on its face over 3500RPM? Answers will be different. My Coronet has the original 318 with AC/PS/PB as well and the Daughters Duster has a more warmed over 318.
 
Good point. Probably more low-end torque, than hi-RPM HP. Just usable power and torque for a cruiser.

Again - it doesn't need changes. I just get bored in the off-season and look for excuses to bust knuckles and waste money...typical single-guy-with-classic-car syndrome :rofl:
 
Pass. I've run enough boost on other cars, with just a hair too much timing...and melted pistons in the past. Not looking to do that on the 500 :)
 
So my 2 cents after building my 2 318's wanting the same thing.

1) Wiseco Pistons to get you in the 9:1-9.5:1 range. 1970 they dropped the compression on the 318 from the 9:2 to low 8's from the first 2 years of LA production.
2) Pick to right cam, which now that I know more the 318 is small enough that if you do the math none of the small block cams are really right for it to maximize low end torque. I would love to have Oregon Cams to make me one to my specs someday.
3) Better flowing heads will have better flow for high RPM and a lesser difference for low end torque. I like the aluminum Toth heads on the Duster so we don't really worry about pinging and they really cool a lot better in Arizona heat. Performance wise for cruiser driving.... not sure if it worth the cost just for performance there.
4) If you are not on the highway much (we are on the highway at 75MPH+ for hours so the 2.94's are a blessing there), dropping the gear ratio by finding another center section is the biggest bang for the buck. You can make the 318 run a lot better at higher RPM but you really need displacement increase to get that big jump low end torque.
 
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If your after a 2 barrel look that would run stronger there is more potential from using a 360 2 barrel dual plane then what a 70 318 2v originally had...360 has a much bigger carb and bigger intake ports.. The 70 318 I would think would have the single plane 2 barrel intake which I dont think has as much bottom end torque as a later 318 or 360 dual plane...i think in 73 the 318 is when they used a dual plane 2 barrel. The ports on a 360 are bigger but I have used 4 barrel 340/360 intakes on a 318 and it ran very well even though the ports were mismatched, it was better then the 273 4 barrel intake on a 318 which is close to what your car likely has.
On a side note we ran a turbo on a 318 in our 72 satellite 25 years ago, we got tired of working on it and in went a 440. But in all honesty the boosted 318 made more power then our fairly stock 440. We never melted anything...just could not keep head gaskets in it.
 
Just my imo but rarely is a charger admired for it's 318. People expect chargers to be big blocks.
Give it what it deserves or leave it alone.
 
Triplegreen500 said:
Well, it's a good thing it's not theirs then.

I'll do with my car as I see fit. That wasn't my question anyway, but thanks for chiming in.
Click to expand...
I admire a car more if it has been left the way it came from the factory. Regardless of the options. I love my 318 in the Coronet. Does everything I have ever wanted to do with it.
 
Lately, I have been put EFI with timing control on several cars.
With the altitude and E-10 fuel here in Denver, it makes the car alot more fun to drive. Easy starts, no vapor lock, self adjusting for altitude, temperature, and replaced the old rusty fuel tank and lines with new tank with in-tank electric pump, new fuel lines, new distributor and ignition system, along with the EFI unit.
It's not cheap. Holley even has 2-bbl sniper units (not sure if is a direct fit or not?), but they are as expensive as the 4-bbl unit.
 
My Satellite will be EFI...whichever way I go with it (stout LA 360, or finally finish that damn Gen III conversion). With the built 727 and factory 489-case SG rear, it already has more strong-parts in place for it.

The Charger...is honest. Real. Original. I like that. And, its sentimental - even though it isn't mom's actual car...it's as close as I'll ever get, and I love that about it. I don't want to change its DNA, just...maybe send it to the gym once in a while and perk it up some.
 
Might look towards the jeep world for a 2bbl injection set up...howell uses a dead simple system using off the shelf bowtie parts...so no worries if your traveling...just a thought.
 
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