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McLeod RXT dual disc clutch, Hydramax hydraulic T.O. bearing installed since Oct and I have PROBLEM

You do realize that it’s a hydraulic throw out bearing? There’s no adjustment other than shims behind the TB.
 
Does not sound like a real good set up then.
A major change like that involves too many variables to have no adjustability.
 
What? I had one on my 470 Dart, they work perfectly as long as you set them up correctly.
 
OK! OK! LOL...
I spoke w/American Powertrain tech support and confirmed that the outer "shell" of the bearing DOES stay in contact w/the diaphragm spring. That is one major difference between a hydraulic and mechanical TOB. The "gap" is usually set with shims between the blue anti-spin collar and the input shaft bearing retainer cover at the 90° point. In my case, the collar had to be machined and used as the spacer because of the step in the input shaft bearing retainer.
He suggested that I check the 2 friction discs with the clutch pushed in to make sure they aren't stuck or sticking/rubbing on any of the moving parts like the flywheel or pressure plate.
The engine does NOT die, or seem to idle slower than usual, but I know the input shaft is rotating w/the clutch pushed in because of the way the transmission is acting.
 
My mistake, I thought it died, you said you had to kill it.
I’d still double check the air gap.
 
Well I given it my best shot.

Bio let us know the outcome.


I’m out.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Well I given it my best shot.

Bio let us know the outcome.


I’m out.
Click to expand...
Hey buddy and to ALL who replied.
PLEASE don't mistake ANY of my replies! I sincerely, deeply, greatly appreciate ALL of your great advice!!
:thumbsup::thankyou::luvplace::thankyou::thumbsup:
I hope I didn't come across as dismissive, argumentative, or negative in ANY way!!
I even removed the red X because I don't want to seem harsh, I just don't want someone like me to read that particular post and think that is correct info when it isn't.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, “new” design throw out bearings (20 years new.lol) are made to maintain contact with the fingers. Why? Market research showed buyers preferred clutch pedals that had no slop or clearance however you might call it.
 
hangn0ut said:
Yeah, “new” design throw out bearings (20 years new.lol) are made to maintain contact with the fingers. Why? Market research showed buyers preferred clutch pedals that had no slop or clearance however you might call it.
Click to expand...
Actually I just think it's an inherent design factor.
 
biomedtechguy said:
Actually I just think it's an inherent design factor.
Click to expand...
Back when I first heard of this the linkage was still mechanical not hydraulic. And hydraulic linkage is still one step removed from hydraulic throw out bearing.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of aftermarket swap parts where you may have to do the rest of the R&D.
 
ckessel said:
Welcome to the wonderful world of aftermarket swap parts where you may have to do the rest of the R&D.
Click to expand...
To everyone, again, sincere thanks.
I failed to get under my car yet.
There's a YouTube MOPAR guy who wound up getting 2 off the shelf "washers" and used them w/some of the supplied shims to get proper spacing for the TO bearing.
According to the shop owner, mine is .127" which, if true, is close to the limit of "closeness" relative to the diaphragm spring. What that should do is compress the diaphragm spring more than if it was farther away, and remember, the problem seems to be the clutch not fully disengaging.
I'll follow-up when I learn something hands on.
 
I’m running the same clutch but using a Stock Style throw out bearing I haven’t drove it yet the reason I didn’t go with the hydraulic one is On my hellcat I had issues with The clutch and transmission found out that it was a hydraulic Throwout bearing install the bad boys Clutch and bearing it worked perfect. I didn’t want to have to deal with hydraulic mY Classic car
 
Adding shims is the wrong direction. You need to take away shims, that will get the TB AWAY from the clutch fingers.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Adding shims is the wrong direction. You need to take away shims, that will get the TB AWAY from the clutch fingers.
Click to expand...
Correct. I've been told and confirmed and I sent tech support the 2 videos that the bearing is supposed to turn. With it as close as possible, that should give me the max clutch disengagement.
I still have to get under my car and see what happens. Thanks
 
I finally found some information that may shine the light on my "failure to fully disengage" problem with my McLeod dual disc clutch.
If I'm lucky, I won't have to remove the transmission to resolve this if I have a clearance problem:
 
UPDATE, and a detailed reply from American Powertrain, who I sent those 2 video clips to again.
FIRST: The transmission seems to be shifting fine, and the occasional Reverse issue is now no different that it ever was, sometimes I have to shift into 1st to make Reverse easy, and I learned that trick from others who have that problem with all kinds of transmissions, but most of the time it goes into reverse fine, and ALL forward gears are fine, NO CREEP in gear with the clutch pedal pushed in. My thoughts are that I may have had something rubbing ever so slightly that it made it seem like the discs were turning the input shaft.
SECOND: I got an email from tech support that satisfies my concern.
This reply from @hangn0ut says it all:
hangn0ut said:
Yeah, “new” design throw out bearings (20 years new.lol) are made to maintain contact with the fingers. Why? Market research showed buyers preferred clutch pedals that had no slop or clearance however you might call it.
Click to expand...
Here's the quote from tech support:
"A mechanical system has a return spring mounted to the pedal that pulls the bearing away from the pressure plate. In a hydraulic system there is no spring. The pressure plate will push the bearing back only as far as the fingers will rise. The bearing will ride against the fingers, but off pressure. This is called a constant contact bearing. Most newer OEM systems are like this."
So that's it for now, I have to move on to other things I have to do. IF the bearing "wears out" and needs replacement in short order, OR if anything significant develops, I will follow-up here.
Thanks again!
 
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