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'70 318/2bbl buildup ideas?

If your fairly happy with how it runs and want to keep it looking original under the hood and your itching to do some tweeking get a better torque converter that is tight for cruising, but will wake it up off the line in addition to a shift kit. May want to go through the tranny if it hasn't already. 318 2 barrel will bark the tires in second w a shift kit...everyone will think your sporting a big block.:)
 
Your worried about the look of a 4 barrel under a stock style air cleaner assy? Willing to put a lumpy cam with the stock 2 barrel? But no problem putting 17" wheels on it?
???
Doug
 
No...I put 17s on it to see how it looked, since they were already on my Satellite. They're - as I said in the original post - too big, but I may go with some period-correct original Torq Thrust wheels, either 14" or 15" (if I decide to change to disc brakes up front, for safety - currently 4 non-assisted drums). I just wanted to see the car with something other than the factory wheel covers on it, and the Ridlers were right there.
 
My 69 Coronet has this 318 setup. 904 with the 8.25 rear end. The car has big wheel I put on it in 1984. She's been sitting since about 2004 timeframe. I've got her running but she was set in the garage forever ago with water in the block so there is lots of rust. The motor has very low miles but i"m not sure if its worth the trouble to do anything to her (390?) or best to start anew with a 360 or something else. Can the machine shops get rust out of the block? I'm really not sure what to do with the car motor wise so reading about the 318's is fun. She has an RV cam but I"m in Colorado and I rear the low compression pistons with the thin are make the motor even less powerful than it started. Sure is fun crawling back in her though. Front end rebuild is next on my list of "to dos".
 
I actually miss the stock 318 I had in my 68 years ago... I started with just swapping to a 3.55 gear set and it made the car a lot more fun - Maybe start there and see where you want to go after... the 2bbl is nice and simple but you won't lose anything by going to a small 4bbl... to upgrade anything else would be a waste IMO if you don't get a bit more air into the engine...
 
Motodave said:
My 69 Coronet has this 318 setup. 904 with the 8.25 rear end. The car has big wheel I put on it in 1984. She's been sitting since about 2004 timeframe. I've got her running but she was set in the garage forever ago with water in the block so there is lots of rust. The motor has very low miles but i"m not sure if its worth the trouble to do anything to her (390?) or best to start anew with a 360 or something else. Can the machine shops get rust out of the block? I'm really not sure what to do with the car motor wise so reading about the 318's is fun. She has an RV cam but I"m in Colorado and I rear the low compression pistons with the thin are make the motor even less powerful than it started. Sure is fun crawling back in her though. Front end rebuild is next on my list of "to dos".
Click to expand...
The 69 should still have the higher compression. (9.0 or so) I think 70 went to open chambered heads and the compression went down. Switching to closed chambered heads does help bring the compression up a half point or better. 66 and newer 273 heads would work. So would the #302's or Magnums (if you want to mess with the change in the lifters and pushrods to make it work) or a set of aluminums. (probably not the expense for a half a point.)
 
My 68 Coronet has a 318 as well. I put on a Holley 500 cfm 2bbl carb back in 84. Still have it on the car. The engine performs very well and accelerates alot better than the original Carter 2bbl ever did. The Holley 500 is very easy to rebuild and rebuild parts are plentiful. That is what I would do and you still keep the original manifold.
 
toolmanmike said:
The 69 should still have the higher compression. (9.0 or so) I think 70 went to open chambered heads and the compression went down. Switching to closed chambered heads does help bring the compression up a half point or better. 66 and newer 273 heads would work. So would the #302's or Magnums (if you want to mess with the change in the lifters and pushrods to make it work) or a set of aluminums. (probably not the expense for a half a point.)
Click to expand...

the piston deck height changed was the main reason. My original 68 318 the pistons were less than 0.030 in the hole and stock piston you can buy today is more like the post 70 318’s, more like 0.080 or greater in the hole.
 
JimKueneman said:
the piston deck height changed was the main reason. My original 68 318 the pistons were less than 0.030 in the hole and stock piston you can buy today is more like the post 70 318’s, more like 0.080 or greater in the hole.
Click to expand...
A quote from one of the many 318 build threads over at FABO: "Yes I put KB 167 pistons in my 318 and it measured from the lowest to highest was .015 to .011 . Only 4 thou difference so I did not deck it, just ran it as it was with a 62cc head and .039 gasket it came out at 9.7 to one."

KB has those dialed in just about right.
 
toolmanmike said:
A quote from one of the many 318 build threads over at FABO: "Yes I put KB 167 pistons in my 318 and it measured from the lowest to highest was .015 to .011 . Only 4 thou difference so I did not deck it, just ran it as it was with a 62cc head and .039 gasket it came out at 9.7 to one."

KB has those dialed in just about right.
Click to expand...

The Wiseco we put in the daughters Duster came in at about 9.2 without decking the block so they are similar. The KB have a compression height of 1.81" and the Wiseco 1.80" with the factory later 318 are 1.741" so the Wiseco are 0.010" further down in the hole than the KBs

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Pis...-Bore-Flat-Top-for-318-LA-Mopar-/282840895785
 
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