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1974 Dodge Charger Master Cylinder Question

hunterrocks24

hunterrocks24

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Hello Everyone,

I have a 1974 Dodge Charger with disc brakes on the front and drum brakes in the rear. I had liquid that leaked into the cabin which looks to be from the master cylinder. I have called multiple part places and everyone has a larger than a 1inch bore size which to my knowledge and research I can only use a 1in bore. If anyone knows of where I can buy a new one or maybe buy one that fits my car I would highly appreciate it!

Thank you!

IMG_20170605_184023368.jpg
 
If you go power brakes I have the pedal assy with the bell crank for power brakes for sale.
I would try for an older model charger like 70 or 71 I've not seen a non power brake charger after 71 maybe that's why you can't find part someone might have stuck it in ?
Is car a /6 ?
 
Bb70charger500 said:
If you go power brakes I have the pedal assy with the bell crank for power brakes for sale.
I would try for an older model charger like 70 or 71 I've not seen a non power brake charger after 71 maybe that's why you can't find part someone might have stuck it in ?
Is car a /6 ?
Click to expand...

the car had a factory 318 in it and everything looks original. I’m trying to keep the car closer to stock. Looks like I’ll be learning how to rebuild my master cylinder. Thank you for the offer tho! Talking to a couple of guys the master cylinder number matches the car. Most of the boosters are on the se models factory base models didn’t have it.
 
I have a parts store master in my Charger which was listed for a 1970.
Manual disks in front, used to be drums.
The pedal does require some pressure but it stops well.
.031 = 1/32" That's very little difference.
They usually come with bleeder plugs these days, bench bleed it and install with the lines almost tight pump it once or twice.
Tighten the lines and you should be good to go.
 
Don Frelier said:
I have a parts store master in my Charger which was listed for a 1970.
Manual disks in front, used to be drums.
The pedal does require some pressure but it stops well.
.031 = 1/32" That's very little difference.
They usually come with bleeder plugs these days, bench bleed it and install with the lines almost tight pump it once or twice.
Tighten the lines and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

looks like I’ll give it a shot. Definitely a newbie when it comes to this stuff. Thanks again!
 
Glad to help.
You may want to consider replacing your flexible lines at the calipers and over the rear axle as well.
They are getting pretty old.
 
@Nacho-RT74
He might have more input about manuel brakes on a 74 he's a wealth of knowledge!
I've had tons of base model cars and every one had power brakes
I even had a striped down charger no options at all and it had power brakes I want to say there standard on 73-74 definitely and almost want to say on 72 !
But Nacho-RT74 will know best !
As for numbers cly they don't have vin numbers on them maybe a org part from chrysler but what year ? Again I want to say someone swapped a non power into your car !
 
I have dealt just with power brakes actually. Is not common to find a 73 and lates Mopar with manual brakes, even A Bodies. They became to be allmost standard equipment since that year, along with front disc.

As far I recall 1 1/32" is the size for power brakes. The main problem will be ( I guess ) it won't get the foamy seal to keep the pushing rod in place like specific Manual brakes pistons MC got

But same as with power brakes, you could make just the service on it. I's really an easy job. Master cylinders are serviceable as far cylinders are in good conditions. Dunno if in USA but in Venezuela I could get a piston set for service or just the seals set allmost everywhere. Pistons never get damaged really and ppl use to get the piston set just for the easy job without deal installing the seals on the old pistons, but seals are not hard to install on the old pistons. Just one of them is a bit tricky. My last MC service jobs were just dealing with seals reusing pistons.

Have you tried to find the service kit?
 
Last edited:
My 74 Charger with a 318 also has manual brakes. Probably not a lot of them out there, but they do exist.
 
I think your chances of success are greater buying a parts store master. Hence my recommendation.
If you have little experience with this stuff, I don't think rebuilding the master is a place to start.
If the bore is pitted you will be buying a parts kit, working on it an hour or two and still potentially having problems.
I've had good success with buying a complete master from RockAuto or a local parts store.
Start with the easy solution. If you want to try rebuilding the original later and "restore" it more power to you.
But I would just want a system that works well that I can be confident in.
Hope it goes well.
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
I have dealt just with power brakes actually. Is not common to find a 73 and lates Mopar with manual brakes, even A Bodies. They became to be allmost standard equipment since that year, along with front disc.

As far I recall 1 1/32" is the size for power brakes. The main problem will be ( I guess ) it won't get the foamy seal to keep the pushing rod in place like specific Manual brakes pistons MC got

But same as with power brakes, you could make just the service on it. I's really an easy job. Master cylinders are serviceable as far cylinders are in good conditions. Dunno if in USA but in Venezuela I could get a piston set for service or just the seals set allmost everywhere. Pistons never get damaged really and ppl use to get the piston set just for the easy job without deal installing the seals on the old pistons, but seals are not hard to install on the old pistons. Just one of them is a bit tricky. My last MC service jobs were just dealing with seals reusing pistons.

Have you tried to find the service kit?
Click to expand...
Yes I have ordered a kit to do it myself. From what I can find it's not too hard to rebuild so I'm going that route and see how it goes.
 
Don Frelier said:
I think your chances of success are greater buying a parts store master. Hence my recommendation.
If you have little experience with this stuff, I don't think rebuilding the master is a place to start.
If the bore is pitted you will be buying a parts kit, working on it an hour or two and still potentially having problems.
I've had good success with buying a complete master from RockAuto or a local parts store.
Start with the easy solution. If you want to try rebuilding the original later and "restore" it more power to you.
But I would just want a system that works well that I can be confident in.
Hope it goes well.
Click to expand...
I am going to go the rebuild route. One of the shops contacted me and they are willing to sit down with me and show me how to rebuild it as a learning experience which I am very grateful for.
 
Here is a reprint of the Factory Service Manual covering master cylinder specs. For safety sake, steer clear of rebuilt master cylinders. Some are good and some are not. The Master cylinder is the "heart" of the brake system. Don't have a "heart" attack.
 

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  • MASTER CYLINDER SPECS.pdf
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