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Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

Good Morning - nice update!

It is hard to see your starter, but it looks like a full size starter. If it is, you should go with a mini starter, say one from a Dakota truck, etc. I think TTI states they are needed on their web site. With the limited clearance you have, I would be concerned about heat and the starter.

Good luck!

Hawk
 
Can/did you check the mesh of the starter/ring gear? There must be a way to get bendix to kick out and not spin the starter.
 
The clutch pedal has an adjustable pushrod as part of the SST kit. I have the clutch pedal sitting at the same height as the power brake pedal for the sake of appearance. The power booster and master cylinder are not B body, they are stock 1975 Dart and while it all bolts in and functions fine, I don't know if the pedal sits at a position that is closer to the floor than a stock B body with power brakes. I am hoping that the clutch pedal at the current state has enough swing/travel to function. If not, I'll have to adjust the pushrod to extend the travel. I would also modify the brake pedal pushrod to get the pedals aligned again.

The starter is a Denso mini. I doubt a stock starter would fit.
 
I remember attending the first Mopar Nationals in 1981 in Chelsea Michigan. A colleague drove his car, a '69 hemi Super Bee, with 4:56 gears, FROM TORONTO. I can imagine how he felt when he got out of his car upon arrival.
My A12 car was my everyday driver in high school circa 72/73.. I cringe whenever I hear 4:10 gears now....
 
Now that you have that much access get more light in there & pinpoint your leak.... A mirror might be helpful too... Look at the rear of the intake, check the galley plugs, get a good look at the valve covers...

I'd consider bolting the flywheel, bell housing & starter up & run it without a trans in place...

So you clean it & then look for leaks?????? How can you decide if somethings leaking when you just cleaned it up....

I will agree it's a great time to run the engine & pinpoint a leak...
Oil pressure gauge sender
 
Post #417 answered my question about access to the side cover bolt and hydraulic line - looks like plenty of room from underneath.
 
I agree but I also know **** happens... Theres an old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" well just cause it's old doesn't mean it's wrong...

I watched a guy who "always" left his 63 split window fuelie car in neutral, it was just back from the body shop getting stress cracks repaired and some shims installed to square it up with the frame, reach in through the window to start it to have it take off and smack the wall.. someone had sat in it and left it in gear

I watched a brand new Harley get started in gear, fuel injected so it just kept going, walk up a wire link fence before it crashed down on its side...

I always ALWAYS now will NOT start a manual without putting in the clutch....
 
I still have daylight and comfortable weather but screw it, I'm inside on the couch because I am pissed off.

I can't get this friggin transmission to seat into position. I have been cussing and bitching, working my hands sore shaking the transmission up and down, side to side trying to get it to slip in all the way. I don't know HOW pissed I'd be if I were doing this job on jack stands. I've had it into position and back out 3 times today. I thought maybe the clutch had slipped or got moved a bit off center so I pulled the trans out, removed the fitting to the throwout bearing and stuck the clutch alignment tool in there. It fit just fine.
There were some shiny spots on the top edge of the clutch spline hub but that could have been from when the end butted in before the input shaft splines were centering.

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I have the bolts in there to keep it from sliding back. I know enough to know you shouldn't crank on those bolts to pull the transmission into place. If it doesn't slap into position, something isn't right. Cranking on the bolts could crack the case, damage something inside or both.

The throwout bearing setup looks fine and isn't in a bind.

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The input shaft has a slight taper to both the splined section and the pilot end.
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I am guessing that the input shaft just isn't slipping into the pilot bearing. I spent 2 1/2 hours screwing around with this damn thing. With stock setups, I'd put a yoke in the end and leave the trans in gear...wiggling and clocking the yoke. I can't do that here, they ship the driveshaft with the yoke later after the trans is in.
 
Loosen the bolts that attach the pressure plate so the disc can move.... That way the input shaft acts as the alignment tool... Assuming the trans slides in then tighten the bolts...... If it doesn't slide in either the pilot bearing is damaged or the hole in the crank isn't deep enough... I'm betting it slides in..
 
Hey KD, I had the same problem seating my TKO 600, SST had sent the wrong pilot with the double clutch, couldn’t get it to seat. I got to measuring and sure as hell pilot was slightly smaller on the bushing side. You might check that out.
 
I did get the LH header and starter in place. The dents made a big difference in clearance.

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Hey KD, I had the same problem seating my TKO 600, SST had sent the wrong pilot with the double clutch, couldn’t get it to seat. I got to measuring and sure as hell pilot was slightly smaller on the bushing side. You might check that out.
I did think of that. I already had the trans in place 2 weeks ago but this was without the pilot bearing, flywheel or clutch. Son of a bitch....
 
The clutch alignment tool fit snugly but who knows if it is the same as the trans??
Okay, now I'm going to have to pull the trans, starter, bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch to be able to reach the pilot bearing to measure. I should have test fitted the pilot bearing on the input shaft.
 
Using long bolts or all thread in the bell to trans holes helps out on the alignment to slide the trans in. You are taking the smart route though by couching it until you cool off. I never won a challenge from an inanimate object at times like that. Walk away, then tackle it later. You usually find that it was something stupid causing your torment.
 
i think youre going to have to get the input shaft to spin a bit. put the rubber end cap back in and toss it in gear and give it a twist. hopefully it lines up.


watermelon
 
The clutch alignment tool fit snugly but who knows if it is the same as the trans??
Okay, now I'm going to have to pull the trans, starter, bellhousing, pressure plate and clutch to be able to reach the pilot bearing to measure. I should have test fitted the pilot bearing on the input shaft.

You have calipers measure the input shaft & the pilot tool...

Like I said earlier..

Loosen the bolts that attach the pressure plate so the disc can move.... That way the input shaft acts as the alignment tool... Assuming the trans slides in then tighten the bolts......
 
KD i took me couple days playing with it yes i was pissed frustrated all this time money. Well as i was trying to get it in i was thinking what the pilot bearing looked like as I suspected I damaged it so order 3 more just in case yep there went another one, 3rd times a charm. So u mite want to check it out to be safe?
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